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I'm sitting here with a roll of the Hartco 100 series sandblast mask and, according to the instructions, my HDU should be primed before i lay it on. Not a problem, but I was just wondering...
Should I just lay down a single smooth coat, or do I need two or three (enough to fill the tiny voids) to insure better adhesion?
Just don't want to overdo it and cause problems later.
Thanks in advance... Rapid
-------------------- Ray Rheaume Rapidfire Design 543 Brushwood Road North Haverhill, NH 03774 rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com 603-787-6803
I like my paint shaken, not stirred. Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
I wouldn't waste my time priming HDU Ray...just sand it down to a fare-thee-well with 400 grit sandpaper, wash it off with a strong water stream, let it dry good, then stick your mask on. The primer is unnecessary,and you will always have a cleaner edge wherever you blast on the bare foam, because there is no barrier between the sand and the hd to make a rough edge. Your mask will NOT blow off, using this method. Ask anyone who has done it. After you sand the bare hdu, it should feel like a baby's butt, then you know it's right.
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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Agree with the above posters on clean application...as long as it has aggressive tac on the mask. I did the multicoat of paint once (notice ONCE ) and it was a nightmare to blast through. Made for a cool texture but the sand was bouncing off the layers of primer and it took forever to blast.
-------------------- Scott Eckland Chelsea Signs web: chelseasigns.com email: scott@chelseasigns.com 734.475.9704 Posts: 198 | From: Michigan | Registered: Jun 2002
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Your bottom layer of paint will not be dry and you'll blast off your resist with a layer of paint attached to it.
I never pre prime HDU for sandblasting, only routing. IF I were to pre prime I would lay down an ultra thin layer with a squeegee just to fill up the pores. You will never get a totally even layer of paint down which results in it being impossible to blast evenly because once you get through a thin layer of paint the HDU is going to blast quickly compared to a thick layer of paint.
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I agree with Dave. Have had pretty good success with just blowing the HDU off with the air compressor, make sure its right clean, apply the mask and then roll it with a small roller. (helps the adhesion) Have had a disaster or two with priming first which resulted in sanding I did not want to get into.
-------------------- Deri Russell Wildwood Signs Hanover, Ontario
You're just jealous 'cause the little voices only talk to me. Posts: 1904 | From: Hanover, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Dec 1998
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To get a thin layer of paint, I spray two coats of acrylic latex with an HVLP gun...three at the most. The paint MUST dry completely before blasting.
Basicly, 1. Make sure the HDU is absolutely clean 2. Spray two even, thin coats; three at the most. 3. Let dry completely...about 5 days 4. Use Anchor medium tack stencil 5. Keep the blast pressure down to about 85psi 6. Keep the nozzle moving quickly
I also cut all my stencil on the plotter, so there are no stray undercuts with an Xacto knife to worry about. (yes I have cut oodles of stencils with an Xacto but why do it if you don't have too?)
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) and it was a nightmare to blast through. Made for a cool texture but the sand was bouncing off the layers of primer and it took forever to blast.
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