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I really don't know which angle blade I am supposed to use for cutting different things on the plotter. Which degree is best for vinyl? How about sandblast resist? Or what about those dreaded polyester metal type vinyls? Is there any other material I should be concerned with?
Thanks in advance. I've always used the blade that came with my plotter and I think I could use some new ones but I don't even know what angle they are!!!
-------------------- Amy Brown Life Skills 101 Private Address Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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The general consensus in this neck of the woods is that a 30 degree blade is used for cast vinyl, 45 degree for calendered, and 60 degree for reflective. On sandblast, I am not sure-- but most likely the 60 degree.
Been using the 45 degree for general cutting (cast and the rare times I cut calendered) and the 60 blade for reflective. I don't have occasion to cut sandblast resist, so no help there.
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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Amy.. Generally, there are three blade configurations or types: the general purpose 45*, used for cutting most materials from vinyl (regardless whether it's cast, calandered, HP, intermediate, or whatever), reflectives of all kinds, and metal polyesters. Graphtec users have an option to use the standard light / medium duty version, or a much heavier version, but they're both 45*.
There's a so-called 60* blade (60* measured from the horizontal, but the included angle is 30*). This blade is noticeably longer and somewhat slimmer and is used for reaching deeper into thick materials such as sandblast stencil. Unless this blade is new and very sharp, we have found that it does a poorer job in reflectives, particularly engineering grade upwards through Diamond grade. It takes far more effort and force to push a dull 30* (or 60*) blade through the polyester top coat than it does to slice it with a 45*
The opposite to the 60* blade is one used for very thin or delicate materials like poly films or Rubylith or similar. The difference between slicing and plowing is more than evident when you take the work to the table and try to weed it. What looks like a perfect Ruby cut can be the devil to weed even if you used a sharp 45* If you looked along the cut line in Ruby with a strong loupe you'd see tiny fractures as though you dragged an icepick through it instead of a razor blade; weeding it can be like opening a potato chip bag... A good shallow angle blade can fix that most of the time...your weeder person (maybe that's you) will love you.
No matter what kind of system you have or what blade(s) you're comfortable with, your work will improve vastly if you can your dull blades. There is no economy in using (or trying to) less than perfect blades. Further, it takes a relatively long time to wear out a blade that's good to begin with, but it's scary how little effort it takes to break one, and the harder they are the easier it is to do so. Many, many, many people tell me "but I just replaced the blade"...well, maybe so, but it's broken, anyhow. I've said more than once...one of the best investments you can make is in one of the illuminated hand microscopes from Radio-Shack. They cost about $8. That $8 will save you countless hours of frustration. Much luck to you, howard
-------------------- Howard Keiper Independent Contractor Benicia, Ca. thekeip@comcast.net
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Bill that is right on with the blades as far as I know. I have quit using 30* blades because I found no big difference in cutting cast with a 45*, I just turn the pressure down. Amy, you have a Vinyl Express which uses Roland blade holders don't you? They make 2 different 45* blades for that holder one for regular stuff and one for small letters called the ZECU blade. I always just get the regular blade, the ZECU has a really small tip. I use 60* for cutting reflective, chrome type, diffracto and I don't do sanblasting but that is the one you would use for it too. I have always been told to use 2 different 60* blades if you cut reflective because the glass beads in the reflective will wear down the blade quicker and it is better to use a blade for cutting reflective only and one for all the other 60* stuff. If you want a good source for pressures, blade angles and other tips, get the Signwarehouse catalog, they have this thing called "Blade Facts" in their vinyl section and it is a really good source for "blade facts" www.signwarehouse.com
-------------------- John Thompson JTT Graphics "The big guy with a little sign shop!" Royston/Hartwell Georgia jtt101@hotmail.com Posts: 626 | From: Royston Georgia | Registered: Feb 2002
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