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I'm in the process of carving and gilding a sign for my art gallery. It is also to be use for a sign model for by signcarving business located at the same facility. I have relief carved one side and plan to cut out HDU and apply as a positive from HDU scraps on the other. I'm considering sanding/shaping soft curves as opposed to carved faceting on the positive copy. This appears to be a great way to use HDU scraps and use them against maybe a Dibond backing although this time it will be on HDU because I have relief carved the secondary copy. What are your thoughts, and does anyone have photos of such a bird?
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Not quite sure of what you are looking for here..Are you planning to carve from scrap HDU and the apply to a HDU panel? If so I do it a lot, all the time in fact...it's a great way to add "spot" dimension and use up scraps. Will try to post some pictures...if I can help any further..email or call.
-------------------- Shirley Carron Black Sheep Designs 184 John St. N. Arnprior,On.,Canada shirleyc@magma.ca 613-623-7053 Posts: 503 | From: Arnprior, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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Yes Shirley. I am getting a lot of HDU scraps, and yesterday cut and shaped some into copy with a scroll saw and sanders. They turned out very well, although they took quite a bit longer that incised cuts. I think I am going to like the look, and feel they will last much better than plastic letter which would have served the same purpose maybe. I think the sign being different in presentation on each side will make a great sales tool. Thanks, Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Primary copy and critters all carved from scrap HDU.
This was sort of a bum deal, I got pulled off of the project after carving the copy and the cat. There are some things that should have been done differently. The secondary copy, for example should have been sprayed beige to match the background then had just the faces painted green. The whole letter was sprayed green instead which really hurts the readability.
-------------------- Jon Androsky Posts: 438 | From: Williamsport, PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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Thanks for taking the time to post it for me. It has some real 3D to it. I would paint the green background much darker green to make the foreground snap and go with a light conservative orange on the secondary copy. It should make for a great example of your work. Are the components put on after the have been finished and if so what did you use? I'm thinking silicone. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Jack: Yeah I agree about the background, I'd have liked to see it darker. Good call on the orange for the secondary copy too. The problem is that I pretty much lose all control of a sign once it leaves my desk so I can't really get what I'm looking for most of the time.
This is the way our shop does it: The components were left bare HDU on the back then attached to corresponding bare patches on the background with an adhesive product called Plexus. If it were me though, I'd finish all the components and use good ol' 100% silicone.
-------------------- Jon Androsky Posts: 438 | From: Williamsport, PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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Thought I might post the results of my first attempt on this subject. I must say it is more time consuming, but I was pleased with the results, and used mostly scraps. The "Florida Lee" is 9 inches in height to give a size reference. Large copy 3/4 thick, small copy 1/2 or less thick. All was accomplished with a table jigsaw, power carver by ryobi with a wide blade (90.00), 80 grit sandpaper on a paint stick and 150 grit paper. The copy is not in exact composition. The project took every bit of 8 hours working fairly fast. I'm sure it will get somewhat faster with more confidence.... Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Jack, it may get a little easier, but it's flat out time consuming no matter how much you hustle. That's a nice job you did.
Johnathan, the Critters sign is magnificent! I've seen it somewhere before, was it published or just shared here?, it is nice!
To both of you and anyone else interested...my opinion on the backs of the parts is raw to raw, and some adhesive that has a little give to it (like silicone). We almost had a job destroyed when the West System epoxy ripped the primer and paint right off the backsides of some large panels. Maybe that's more the fault of that ultra hard adhesive, but for insurance we don't paint glue surfaces anymore. Our glue of choice is called PL Polyurethane which comes in a caulking tube like liquid nails. It has the gripping strength of Gorilla Glue in a paste form without the foaming and expansion. Good luck.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Joe: Thanks! If you were at the USSC trade show in Atlantic City, then you saw it as part of our (21st Century Signs')trade show display. Other than that, I don't believe it's been displayed publicly.
We had the same problem with the Plexus ripping off paint and primer, it's a very rigid adheasive also. I'm a big fan of the silicone personally as it has some flexibility. I have signs in the field that are 5 years old which have painted components attached with silicone and no problems...yet .
Glenn: The sheen you are seeing is a coat of Grip Guard clear gloss. Normally we don't clear signs like this, but given the fact that it is likely to be touched, handled, and abused quite a bit, we thought an extra coat of clear wopuld be a good idea. Oh yeah, it's graphitti resistant too. The grip guard typically cures just a tad flatter then One-Shot dries straight from the can.
-------------------- Jon Androsky Posts: 438 | From: Williamsport, PA | Registered: Mar 2002
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