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I built this on friday and a little bit today. Still gotta cut out the space for my hands to fit through, but it's basically done. Dimensions are 69" high, 65" wide, and 32" deep. The plexiglass window is 18"x24". I installed a under the counter type light on the ceiling which is 75 watts. I used two by fours and osb board for the construction. For smaller signs like the house type signs, I can put a small shelf or bench in there to hold the sign up. The monument place I'vd had some signs blasted at had one just like this, only a little bigger. Thing is, they are around 70 miles from me, and its just too much time and traveling to get it done. I'm pleased with the results I've been getting doing my own.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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john..looks good, on the insde walls i would add sheets of that what i call celotex the ygot it at home depot. this will help to keep the sand thats bounced of the sign from eating away the osb board.....just a sugjestion....and an old furnace fan or old vacume will help with the dust...
[ February 16, 2002, 05:41 PM: Message edited by: old paint ]
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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Looks good..I am sure you will be much happier doing it yourself......especially the fact you don't have to drive the distance as before......not counting the lost time away from your shop.. Shep'
-------------------- Arvil Shep' Shepherd Art by Shep' -------- " Those who dance are thought to be mad by those who cannot hear the music " Posts: 1281 | From: Mt Airy NC | Registered: Mar 2001
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Just a thought, If ya wanted to you could build a v bottom floor on it with a recovery auger that would move tha sand to a shop vac setup to reclaim it. I worked in a fiberboard plant and they had these under all the equipment. If I build me one I will rig it this way.
Cool lookin deal ya got there. Have fun!
-------------------- Tony Broussard Graphic Details Digital Media Loreauville, LA Posts: 395 | From: Loreauville, LA | Registered: Jul 1999
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John, Looks cool! The window is gonna get frosty quick, though. One trick that a fella that we have used before did was cover the window (on the inside) with strips of 2-3'' masking tape. You leave one strip exposed, and as that one gets tough to see through, you just remove another strip. You get a little more life out of you window.
-------------------- Joe Endicott NEXCOM (Navy Exchange Service Command) Signing Programs Specialist Virginia Beach, VA jeendicott@msn.com
"I want to be Stereotyped....I want to be Classified." Posts: 681 | From: Virginia Beach, VA USA | Registered: Mar 1999
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John, You might try hanging a piece of plain old window screen about an inch in front of the plexi......it tends to catch the sand before it gets to the plexi.,.....and you can still see through it ok.......you might try also using the "scrap" pieces of sandblast resist to line the walls......sure saves on replacing the plywood..as it weares real fast.....the idea previously posted about the sandblast cabinet would work well for you (The gloves)..Post some photos of your projects. Shep'
-------------------- Arvil Shep' Shepherd Art by Shep' -------- " Those who dance are thought to be mad by those who cannot hear the music " Posts: 1281 | From: Mt Airy NC | Registered: Mar 2001
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John That looks like a winner. Planning a similar set up here, except the back wall is concrete. BTW, Jamie was a big help. Thanks for the info.
-------------------- Bill Dirkes Cornhole Art LLC Bellevue, Ky. Goodnight Mrs. Calabash, wherever you are. Posts: 591 | From: Bellevue,Ky. US | Registered: Aug 1999
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John, My booth is nearly identical. You can use an inner glass like Shep speaks of and change it out often. The plexi will be unusable in short order, if you don't. I just tape a scrap piece of glass in the inner frame. I had to put 2 sets of armgloves in mine, to be able to reach more area. I also sewed them as one piece on my lower set as this will give you a lot more mobility which you will certainly need. The hole for them is probably a 16 x 32 oval. I had them sewed up from welding gloves and heavy vinyl at a shoe repair shop. You will also need a good vacuum to you vent area to evacuate the dust if you don't already have it planned. I have a 6 inch vent pipe there. I also have added a heavy duty screen floor to take out the large wood particles from the returnable sand. I have had it for over 10 years, and have made improvements yearly. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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when i built mine i t was 8x8x20 with a louver on the outside wall and a 4 ft. exhaust fan in the end wall to pull the dust out. i used clear mylar on the inside of the plexiglass so i could change it when it got frosty looking. the louver was to keep from pulling the heat or air out.
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Would something like the visor covers that dirt track racers use be ok or a window covering? I would think that you could rig one of them up so that you just have to peel a layer off at a time... Maybe George Perkins could help out on this?
Have a great one!
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6464 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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I have a question though...I've seen the blasting done out side, with a plastic sheet over it...just lift and blast. The guy doing the blasting was showing me how to hit all the design from different angles (to avoid ghosts) and I can't help but wonder, if you got two little arm holes, how would you acheive this?
My brain fart suggests a 3-4 inch hole that runs across the whole width, with some plastic strips (attatched to the inside, above the hole), for a "curtain" to move your arms back and forth in there with out the sand coming back out of the hole. Would this work? Or would it not be tight enough to keep the sand from coming back out of the booth? LOL!
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Jim Chatham Said something that tweeked my brain.
If your going to use a exhaust system. Remember codes on fan systems ("Fire Proof"motors only) Filter system vents. Air intake. and last but not least "Insurance Coverage."
Just some food!
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild! Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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Thanks for all the suggestions. ALl good, and I will put them to use. Linda, as for the gloves thing, I modeled this after a booth at the monument place where I had some blasting done. He had exactly what you are talking about, a hole cut horizontally across the front of the booth,with rubber strips hanging down, and he pushed his arms through that. He wasn't using sand, but a black powdery substance that he said was much better for what they do. Can't remember the name of it, but he said the health risks weren't there like they were for silica sand. I stood and watched him blast the last time I was there, and nothing (visually) was coming out of the slot where his arms were. I'm totally new to all of this, so all suggestions are taken to heart. All help greatly appreciated.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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