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Has anyone ever successfully dadoed out a 1.5" x 8" x 5" deep socket in a 6" x 6" pressure treated wood post? You know, to accept the sign blade for street signs. More than likely, I will have to do about a hundred posts (200 sockets). I usually set up my jig and do them by hand. But, with this quantity, my body may give out before the router bit does. Oh, yeah.... these puppies are 10' long and weigh between 85 and 125 pounds each! The question is...... Has anyone done it ??? I know how to do it, I know what machines that will do it, I know what bits to use, I know that mill shops have the capability. I was asking .. . .have any of you actually done it using a CNC? I have probably made over a hundred of these over the years a few at a time. Largest quantity was 10 at one order.
[ February 16, 2002, 03:36 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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If I understand you correctly you want to route 2 slots in a 6 X 6 post, 1.5 inches wide, 8 inches long and 5 inches deep. the good news is that a CNC Router can do it. But not most of them! Most CNC routers have a 6 inch clearance under the gantry (I assume that the 6X6 is nominal? and really a 5.5 X 5.5) so thats not a problem. The problem is that the router bit also needs to fit into that 6" space and there's the rub! You need to find someone that has at least a 12" gantry clearence and Bob's yer uncle. If you cannot find anyone there is another option! Shopbot (http://www.shopbottools.com/prtools.htm) can build you a machine that can handle it for about $6500 +SH & Tx +++ (but I'd spend the extra $600 and get the 4X8 table, the steel table option is a must!). The Shopbot is an erector set and does require "some" assembly (you don't have to wire the controller or the stepper motors but the rest is up to you). The instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow.
PS after the posts it's also useful for carving signs, cutting blanks, stirring coffee, and a million other things. Tell them I sent you.
PPS Mine works GREAT!
-------------------- Guy Hilliard Sawdust and Noise CNC Routing / Laser Cutting and Engraving Brampton, Ont. Canada
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Another option would be one of those mortising drill presses I see Norm Abrams using all the time on New Yankee Workshop. Have you seen it? A drill encased by a square tube with chisel edges. As you press down into your work, the drill hogs out most of the wood and the chisel edges square up a nice sharp corner. It sure looks easy when he does it.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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You are right Joe, It's a mortising jig that fits on a drill press...but 1 1/2" X 8"...I don't think they make em any where near that big. If you have a heavy duty hand router.....naw, that won't work either...good question John...5" deep..thats the tough part...An industrial verticle miller, like a Bridgeport could do it easily...but you don't find them on every street corner...John is there a machine shop anywhere in your neighborhood? If there is, that may be your answer...or not! I just thought I would ad alittle confusion to the mix..hehe! Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
-------------------- Joe Cieslowski Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery P.O.Box 368 East Canaan CT 06024 jcieslowski@snet.net 860-824-0883 Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001
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Not that tough. We've used the press with a MSC .75" X 6" shank. The post is laid horizontal on the bed with the straight edge bar locked in place. Lower the router bit and draw the post along the pre-marked 8" length. Back it up, shift the bar and do it again to the 1.5" width. The only drawback is the ends have rounded corners, but then there's always a chisel? Piece of cake. mmmmmmmmmm........caaaake. (Homer quote)
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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John, I don't understand exactly what a sign blade is, but couldn't you use another method of attachment, or is this the only allowed specs? Sounds like ship building to me. Their is new/old equiptment out there now used in the housing industry where they build houses from milled logs. They are becoming popular all over the country, but I can't remember what they are called.I have a freind who has a bunch of the tools as he is beginning his now. I would be looking for a simpler solution like large dowels set with large forsner bits (turn your own on a lathe) or 12 inch lag screws. Dowels and pvc glue should be nearly as good as the mortise and tenon....Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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The lumber company supplying the posts should have a mill shop to accomidate you.
Posts: 121 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Registered: Feb 2001
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The MultiCam MG would be good for this application. You could like up multiple posts at one time and process them all at once. I would probably run a smaller diameter drill and drill the 4 corners of the slot to get small radius in each corner. Then for speed, I would run a 3/4 inch diameter end mill to cut the pocket. You would probably want a 10 HP spindle to push the 3/4 inch diameter cutter. Since the depth of the cut is 5 inches, you want to run a larger diameter cutter for stability.
The MG has 8 inches of clearance under the bridge with 12 inches of Z axis stroke. There is an option for 12 inches of clearance.
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