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Author Topic: Window splashes
John Deaton
Visitor
Member # 925

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They are several areas of signage that I havent done much in , and splashes are one of them. I'd really like to try and do this more, as I have done a couple, and its alot of fun along with providing more needed revenue. My question here is, what is the best paint to use for basecoat. I've read that some use white house paint, and others use the rich art white. And, for that matter, whats the best paint to use for the splash itself? I have used Richart window paint before, but are others out there that are better? Waitn' for your answers.....

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John Deaton III
Deaton Signs&Grafix
400 May St. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-573-9101
"Grab an ol'cold tater and wait"
johnd3rd@kih.net
http://www.angelfire.com/ky2/dsigns



Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Sam Sanfilippo
Resident


Member # 425

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John,

What I have used is Latex flat white paint. Dries quick and coats pretty good in one coat. I generally check out the local Lowe's & Home Depot (NOT A PLUG) as they will generally have a "bent & dent " section where (if I can beat P King to it) I can get a gallon for a dollar**.

One shot art & sign poster and flourescent over the latex for a blast of colors.
Disposable foam brush & roller application for the latex & the regular lettering brushes on the One shot....unless you have a set of the Mack water based lettering quills for the Rich Art paints.


**P King & I seem to have the same philosophy on increasing the bottom line as much as possible.....

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Sam Sanfilippo
Signs By Sam LH #6308
Samsigns on Letterheads chat
Pinson, AL
205-681-9009
205-681-9830 Fax
"Success always occurs in private, but failure in full view."

A proud Sponsor of this site.


Posts: 281 | From: Birmingham, AL USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chuck Davis
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Member # 1261

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John...
Sam is right...Latex white is used for the base. Don't get skimpy with the base, this is the most important part. Otherwise you'll be coating twice, since the Day Glo fluorescent colors are not opaque. Make sure it's a good 12 year interior white. Exterior will be harder to take off and takes longer to dry. (ask me how I know) Make sure it's flat and it's "acrylic" latex... Cheap latex will streak and get lumpy quickly.

Fluorescent Day-Glo brand paints are what I and most window painters use. These are waterbased and dry flat--very quickly. They also smell a little like citrus--watch out for bees--they're attracted to the yellow color! You can order Day-Glo from Ordway Sign Supply here in California-- 1800-967-3929

I also keep other latex colors such as beige and blue on hand. For your black outline, I recommend Spectrum Lamp Black--if you can find it where you are. It's super opaque. I like to use Nocturna brushes to outline with.

But Nick Barber--big daddy of window splashing (get his book from this website) uses foam brushes.

--Chuck

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Chuck Davis
letterheadfonts@signmaildesign.com

[This message has been edited by Chuck Davis (edited January 13, 2000).]


Posts: 37 | From: CA | Registered: Dec 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chuck Davis
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Member # 1261

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There's a girl here locally that uses Day-Glo oil-based paints-- they're blindingly bright and don't fade nearly as fast as the water based. But the draw back is it's hard to remove. I don't recommend using Rich Art colors...Too thin...

Hope this helps a little...

--Chuck

[This message has been edited by Chuck Davis (edited January 13, 2000).]


Posts: 37 | From: CA | Registered: Dec 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Si Allen
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Member # 420

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A good coat of white latex is a MUST! On heavily tinted windows, a second coat may be necessary! Don't skimp on the white!
I preffer the DayGlo latex colors over Rich Art and apply them with a 3 inch mohair roller. Outlines are normally done with black. I make my black by adding a "healthy shot" of TintAll black and some "Flotrol" and use Nocturna and/or the Mack flats ... better coverage and contol than the foam brushes.
If the window is exposed to heavy rain or roof run-off, and if the customer wants the "splash" to last longer; I coat the whole splash with an acrylic latex clear coat.
( Advise the customer that a clear coated splash is going to be hard to remove since it is now water proof instead of water resistant)
A clear coated window will be as good as one done with oil base flourecent colors; and is easier to do since it will dry faster between coats and brushes can be ceaned up with water instead of solvent.
Mistakes?? Erase them... carry a single edge razor blade in a retractable holder.

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Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
ICQ # 330407
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"

Brushasaurus on Chat



Posts: 8827 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cindy Bennett
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Member # 71

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Window splash is my first love. Have fun!
If you don't have the Nick Barber Splash book, it is worth the money. Even us ol' timer splashies love to see a great one at work, and the pics may spark some ideas for your windows.
I use interior white flat latex, of medium quality. Never use ceiling white,pure cr*p.
I use Day glo waterbased paint, and the best black around, if you can find it, is Cell Vinyl. The cadillac of blacks!(& white and blue too)
I use foam brushes and trim a few with scissors to different widths. I use Foam Pro 3" & 7" rollers.
If you are doing quite afew windows, pour your paint into buckets large enough to hang a roller wire mesh sceen inside, hooked to the rim. I dont know the technical name for it. It removes the excess paint off your roller.Then wrap the whole bucket in a big clear trash bag.
I wrap my rollers in plastic food bags to keep them moist and ready to use.
Also, after you have white base coated your window, you can sketch a cartoon with a pencil, go over your final lines with a Magic marker, and then go over the whole thing wth the white again and your black lines show through just enough to "color in the lines".The pencil lines disappear.
After years of this, I have lots of shortcuts. Email me if you have any specific Q's that I can answer..or try to anyway!

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Cindy Bennett
Verde Valley Signcrafters
Camp Verde, Arizona
520-567-3585

Just found out that I have something called Attention Deficiency Syn..Hey! Nice shirt!



Posts: 68 | From: Camp Verde,Arizona,USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
PKing
Deceased


Member # 337

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As I use oil based lettering enamels exclusively.That is also my chose in the flourescent colors,as they tend to me more vibrant and opague.Both One Shot & Chromatic have a good variety of colors.I will use the One Shot Black and Ultra Blue for outlines and Panels,in thier POSTER COLOR brand of oil based paint.
I use the Ronan brand of PRIMEALL water based White for my backgrounds,as it covers well and dries quick.PLUS it is a very STRONG ULTIMATE white,and covers GREAT!!
3" foam rollers I buy by the case(24)use them and discard.A variety of 2",3",4" wood handel Black foam brushes for large areas if I can beat Sam Sanfilippo to them!!!!!!!!
The small amount of higher price for these products is WELL worth it,based on the finished results.JUST charge the customer more the work.You get to use your lettering quills all year round for other work and don't have to invest in "SPECIAL"waterbased brushes.A Win,Win situation!!
Oh yeah, You gotta do good work too.
As far as (Harder to Get Off) I wouldn't know,as I charge just as much to take them off as I do to put them on.
The lowest guy on the totem pole usally does that job.BUT, I will tell them the best way to do it.

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PKing is
Pat King of
King Sign Design in
McCalla,Alabama
The Professor of
SIGNOLOGY


Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Gilead Stellar
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Member # 158

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I agree with most of the above. Rich art is not so good and too expensive for the amount you get. I buy Radiant brand water based fluorescents and then mix them with medium tinting base from the hardware store.
I took my roller with me to the grocery store and found some rubbermaid containers that fit just right. These make perfect sized sealable paint trays.

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Gilead
Phoenix AZ
http://members.tripod.com/Stellargraphics/Gilead.htm



Posts: 319 | From: Gilbert Arizona USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Adrienne Pereira
Visitor
Member # 1046

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Iguess i oughta put in my 2 cents here. Just what works for me:
1. Good quality white latex house paint (Behr)
2. Radiant water color temps.
3. Cal West black acrylic for outline (less expensive than cel vinyl, equal quality)
4.Mack outlining brushes for waterbased paints.
5.Dutchboy brand clear acrylic enamal for clear coat if ness.
6.3" and 6" foam (yellow) rollers from Home Depot.
7.Ziplock bags to keep till next job.
7. Have fun!
Well, that's it in a nut shell,
Have fun! www.rainkatt.com

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Adrienne Morgan
Splash Signs & Rainkatt Studios

"This I have learned....1/16th inch letters are really hard to weed!"
>^,,^<
836 B Southampton rd
#256
Benicia, CA 94510
707-550-4553 (vm)
adrienne@rainkatt.com
www.rainkatt.com


Posts: 4868 | From: Port Angeles, Washington, USA | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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