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This is a first for us. The very large Anapurna carving on our website changed hands. It was finished with 2 coats of Pelucid, hosed down with water for hardening and left a finshed job. That was 5 years ago. Lots of rain and snow since then. You remember I've said repeatedly that Pelucid gets harder and tougher every time it gets wet? Well........it does. Latigo and Rosemary are up on the mountain right now attempting to rout out the 24" tall "Anapurna" lettering so they can inset a pre-carved panel we made up this past week.
The router bit is a 1" diameter bit with the shank turned down to 5/8" to fit the portable router. When the going got steadily tougher in the first 8" of travel, he stopped to check the bit. Just below the plate the router bit was dulled and trashed! He was sure he had hit a screw protruding from the backside of the carving. To make it short.............he hadn't. BTW......that was an $85 bit. He installed a second bit he had taken for safety and, within another 12" of travel it too, bogged down. Same thing! He retracted the depth of cut by 1/2" and watched as he began to track. It's the PELUCID that's trashing the bits!! That darned stuff sets up SO hard that it can take the edges right off the flutes on tool-steel router bits! He's on his way back to the studio right now to get our anglehead with the heavy wood cutting disc on it. Rosemary's chiseling the corners. She says that the chisels bite through it, but with a bit of effort. I guess we can resharpen the chisels.
2 $85 bits................geez.......what a sunday. And when I say "rock-hard".......I mean HARD!
(geez......can I spell?)
[ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: pierre ]
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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Wow, wonder what it would do to carbide bits? I gotta admit, I'm getting more and more curious about this wonder product. The stories are just a little (almost) unbelievable. Any way to see where it has been applied to something, short of traveling to the mountain top?
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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No.........they were tool steel. I'll probably get one carbide, but you can imagine the cost of a 1" diameter, turned down shank, 4" fluted bit. Better than 2 tool-steels gone to hell, I guess.
I wish I could afford to send out samples of Pelucid. Being titled "merchant" doesn't always mean you make much money on your product. We don't. It was supposed to be a service to brother/sister sign shops and little more. By the time we pay for it, plus the shipping, repackage it and ship it to you wholesale, we make $2.83 a quart. Big business, eh?
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out!
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Steven, we couldn't send you one even if we wanted to. You're in Canada. We can't ship into Canada.
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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Pelucid. . . I just LOVE this schtuff !!! I coat out my wheel barrow pans, bamboo yard rakes, and just got done coating out two very nice HDU signs to boot !!! Yes, the longer it "cures", the harder it gets. POR-15 has made this stuff for the automobile and marine industry for years and years. The only problem was, it was not UV inhibitive. Just within the last couple of years has this come about and boy oh boy are we glad !!! Pelucid does not "dry" like paint, it is a one part urethane resin that CURES when exposed to moisture. But, unlike other resin based urethanes, it maintains a little bit of flexibility which is good for us sign folks. I have used POR-15 on the restorations of a 1930 Buick, a 1938 Packard and a 1950 Chevy panel van. When Pierre says this shctuff is tuff.. it is TUFF !!!! I have often wondered how to remove it if ever the need occured myself !!! Now I know !! Thanks for the heads up !!
[ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: John Smith ]
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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I too am getting more and more interested in this "Magic" coating, lets get some info here What is the base is it a Urethane product? fiberglas? a resin? Does it have any UV qualities? Does it work over waterbase paints? oils? Has anybody reported any Yellowing over the years? How long has it been in Production? Can we use it Over Gold? How can it be applied? Roller, brush, spray? Does it stick to raw HDU? How much does it cost? Ordering info?
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
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-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out!
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Well hey there Pierre. I am working on two redwood sandblasted signs for my brother. His cabin is in the freezing snow in the winter...and the hot heat in the summer.....do you think I should coat them with your product? Also....my bathroom floor......I layed some stick em tile. Maybe I could coat it with Pelucid? eh?
Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999
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I gotta tell you, after coating out my teeth with that stuff I don't need to brush anymore, just gargle. I didn't know it was good for signs too.
-------------------- Wright Signs Wyandotte, Michigan Posts: 2785 | From: Wyandotte, MI USA | Registered: Jan 1999
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Cheryl, go to www.por15.com and check out the info on floor covering. Might surprise you. As for the Redwood signs, most of the guys up here now coat their redwood signs with Pelucid. It helps stop the checking and keeps the colors bright and stops the painted lettering from flaking off with age. On our website, one of the pieces is the "Montana Loggers Association" sign. It's a 4' diameter Larch log whose face was slabbed flat using a 5' double sided chainsaw. They did it in our parking lot, we applied the dimensional copy and shot 4 coats of Pelucid on the whole thing. That was two years ago. It still looks like new today. They also cut up and gave us the slabbed off face. It was enough to fill our trailer with Larch firewood.
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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Pierre.....looks like dynomite stuff. But I don't think I want a high gloss on the whole sandbasted sign. Just the letters. Is there a satin finish?
Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999
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ok Pierre, I looked, now I gotta know - Brush, roll or spray? (how thick is it?) How heavy do you apply it? )does it have any build-up properties? And this moisture-hardens-it thing...do you actually wet it to dry it? How long to wait? And how wet?...Spritz with spray bottle? Hose? And once it's wetted, how long does it take to set up enough to paint over, mask over or apply vinyl to?
It sounds like it will go over practically anything. For my typical uses, would it go over latex (acrylic) paints? One-Shot? Are you a dist for all their products or just the Pelucid? Are there any of the other products that would act as a filler/leveler on raw HDU?
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I want to coat raw HDU with it and apply urethane paints can I do that? How Much? when can I have it?
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
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When I bought my new (new to me, its an 89 chevy) van, it had some assorted surface rust on the floor and up front because of a windshield leak. I used a wire brush to get rid of the rust and used POR-15 over all the previously rusty areas. That stuff is so tough you could smack it with a hammer and not so much as scratch it... really cool stuff
I have used Pelucid three times and had bad luck on all. First time it lifted an outline around some gold leaf. Second time I had some 14' red letters with a white outline. When I applied Peludcid it ran the red into the white. Now the sign has a pink outline. Third time I was doing a panel for a friend of mine. Silver and varigated gold flame job with some hand brushed script. Lifted everything. All three times the paint had dried for almost a week. A LITTLE HELP HERE. PLEASE! What the hell am I doing wrong. Do I need hardner in everything. what? what? what? Thanks for your help anyone.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Rob Larkham Signs & Lettering 21 Middlefield Road Chester, MA. 01011
413-354-0287
Posts: 517 | From: Chester, MA | Registered: May 2001
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I have used pelucid on a few test pieces here around the shop. As most of the above responses have expressed, this stuff is tough! I was trying to get some samples together for Duck Soup, but I failed to have them ready in time.
I am currently working on a blasted HDU sign that will have some copper leaf and gold leaf effects. I am planning on using the pelucid to keep the copper from tarnishing.
As for application methods, I have sprayed it, brushed it on with a cutter and rolled it on with a black foam roller. Spraying seems to be the best all around method as it distibutes the liquid better. It has the same consistency as One-Shot so you can use it in the same fashion. You just can't keep going over it time-and-time again; try to get it all down with one or two passes. I have considered adding One-Shot to the pelucid to see if I can get a colored top-coat, but, alas, too busy these days to try a sample piece. I will fill you all in on future experiments.
And thanks pierre for bringing this product to us here in Letterville!
Oh yeah...don't forget to punch holes in the rim of the can before you put the top back on. I just about had to cut the top off of the can today because the sctuff bonded so tightly.
-------------------- Pat Neve, Jr. 321-537-8675 Capt. Sign
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sorry, guys. Not ignoring you, but I've been offline for 2 days. All new carpeting in the old house....all 4,500 sq feet of it, and 2 days of moving furniture from room to room. Anway..back to business. Rob, you need to call me about your problems. I have some questions for you. We've done all of the things with which you're experienceing problems. I suspect you're brushing it on, and probably too heavy, but call me and we'll solve it for you.
Pelucid can be sprayed, brushed or rolled. Spraying is best, but we do all three here.
Pelucid sets up for a second coat within one hour, but we don't often second coat unless it's a larger project.
Though it's oil based, we spray it down with water around 12 hours after the final application. Sucessive water spraying makes it harder. Each wetting increases hardness.
It has it's own built in UV inhibitors to keep it crystal clear....permanently. We've been using it for 5 years now with no yellowing. They tell me that they introduced the new UV inhibitors about two years ago, but maybe even our older murals are still clear because of geographics. It will not yellow.
Absolutely DO punch rim holes for drainage of excess back into the can.
You can use it on unpainted HDU or any other unpainted substrata.
Works equally well on waterbased or oil based paints. Often we use both water and oil based paints side by side on the same artwork. Of course you won't be using one type of paint over the TOP of the other!......unless you want the rippling effect!
We have experienced ONE instance of failure so far. Grip-Flex or Mathews paints on lighted sign faces will liquefy when sprayed with Pelucid. I can't imagine why anyone would want to shoot Pelucid on a lighted sign face, but be advised it will liquefy these kinds of paints.
We've used it over Gold Leaf and all of the vinyl Gold Leafs without any adverse effect at all. If anyone finds an incident of failure, plese notify us ASAP, so we can investigate the procedure.
Rob, please call us on the toll free line. I do need to know what, and how your failures ocurred. We've done the same things you've done with complete success.
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out!
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I just ordered two new 1" carbide end mills for him. He wasn't kidding! Both bits had a perfect notched spot where they hit the Pelucid. I might not have believed that if I hadn't seen it. I was sad to see that big beautiful carving ruined by taking out the Anapurna lettering. Dumb real estate brokers. Everyone in the world knew that place as Anapurna. Now it just has a realestate name inset into it. Too bad. :^(
Posts: 764 | Registered: Jan 2001
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