posted
I recently applied 1-shot bulletin paint to some MDO. My first attempt I mixed 1 part hi-temp reducer to 8 parts paint. I still felt some drag and the brushing in both directions seemed to pick up some paint on the reverse stroke and show some holidays. The next mix I used the same amount of Pentrol (1 part) and 8 parts paint. This worked out well for brushing, but I was afaid I would see some sag afterwards. It didn't sag, but took quite a while to dry. What mix should I use to get the best results?
posted
Add some hardener .. 10 paint-1 hardener. This mixture is pretty slippery and flows nice,but dont dally too much..the drying is accelerated quite a bit.
posted
I would not recommend using the hardener if you're applying by brush, a suggestion would be a roller.
You didn't mention the color you're applying. Some colors are slower. Some colors don't cover as well either.
What primer are you using? If you're using a solvent based primer, then the enamel reducer could soften the primer if it has not cured. In any event, one coat of enamel won't provide the most durable long lasting finish in most environments.
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
[This message has been edited by Rick Sacks (edited June 18, 2001).]
Posts: 6736 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Rick, The color was Primrose Yellow. The MDO was pre-primed, and I rolled a 1 coat of solvent based primer and sanded it smooth after overnight drying.
posted
is that the normal dilution rate for paint/thinner (8-1)? have i been using it too thick? (is that why i have so much trouble with my lettering enamels?)
------------------ :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: San Francisco :: :: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
if the weather was hot...right off the bat a high temp reducer is right. might be your technique but i always use 2 coats of primer and sand in between all coats.
posted
sorry...i should have added that the penetrol is a flow enhancer and unless you're trying some faux finishes i'd stay clear for the reasons you mentioned.
posted
Primrose Yellow is a tough color to brush - the coverage isn't great and it tends to be "sticky". I've used Penetrol in tough colors like that, even though it dries slower, the better flow is worth it. PY is a color you can't rush - give yourself enough time to let it dry.
------------------ "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)
Cam Finest Kind Signs 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988"
Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
This tidbit came right from One Shot. Bulletin enamel is meant for billboards and is manufactured as a less expensive alternative to the longer lasting lettering enamel. You didn't say in your post if this was temporary signage or not, so if it is, you used the right paint.
My first MDO sign was put up almost 9 years ago and still looks brand new. I painted it with full strength lettering enamel because I didn't "know" any better. After I learned a little more about paint, I started using the cheaper bulletin colors. Those signs are not holding up near as well as the full strength lettering enamel backgrounds. Then I read an article in Sign Business on how to make a 10 year MDO sign. The secret was un-thinned lettering enamel for the background. I use nothing but lettering enamel again.
This board is a wonderfull forum for alot of information, but sometimes you just need to spend a few dimes and go to the source. The makers of One Shot put their phone number on their cans and are more than happy to help you. I have called them several times and gained a wealth of knowledege from them.
For instance, only thin or reduce the paint if you have to, like when the temperature is preventing proper flow or you need better flow when pinstriping or using lettering quills. Hardner will speed up drying time, but the big benefit is that it adds longevity to the faster fading colors especially the reds. I have never had a problem rolling out lettering enamel straight from the can. (OK, we don't have 100 degree days here, even few in the 90's so under those circumstances the paint may have to be thinned.) When the panel is coated out, I always dry my roller by rolling off the extra paint on glossy magazines, (NOT SIGN MAGS, LOL) and after the paint has had a little time to set up, I lightly re-roll the panel which knocks down almost all the bubbles. I tip I just heard about which I'm going to try shortly is to, as a last step, lightly mist the panel with high quality mineral spirits, which will relax the paint to a glass smooth finish, but will add some drying time. After I try this I will create a post to report on how successful this method is.
Anyway, call One Shot. They know their paint better than anyone. They've never let me down.
Sorry for this long winded post, but I just have to add a safety message here. I mentioned above about using hardner. Be careful. Before I started using it, I did the research on the web and talked to the chemist at One Shot. Here's a synopsis of what I've learned. As hardners go, One Shot's hardner is on the mild side, but you still need to take precautions. While handling this stuff, you should wear nitrile gloves which will prevent straight isocyanate from getting on your skin. You should also wear a respirator while handling and mixing this stuff. The respirator that I use is approved by osha for handling but NOT spraying as they have no data yet, or even a way of telling how long the special cartridges are effective. The proper filter has a dark magenta section attached to the standard organic cartridge (black stripe). This mask should be stored in a zip lock bag when not being used to help maintain it's longevity. I avoid spraying it because to be really safe while spraying you should be in a full body suit with supplied air like the body shops use. Once the hardner is mixed into the paint, most of the dangers of iso's are lessened considerably because of the dilution. Once mixed it is mainly dangerous in an airborne state. Maximum mixing ratio is 1 part hardner to 10 parts paint.
------------------ Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 ICQ: 21604027 sherwood@up.net
Posts: 5403 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
to add to what dave said here about catalysts...from the auto paint side...besides the respirator you should have a pair of fairly snug fittin goggles....the mucous membranes around your eyes are a prime absorbsion site....THE most dangerous time you have fooling with isocyanates is like he said,when you crack the can open.Its in whats called a free monomer state and that stuff is very hydrophillic,or attracted to water,which makes up most of the human body...when its encapsulated in the paint,its harder for your body to deal with,but its still not safe...but on the same token you shouldnt be afraid to use it at all...you will see a decided increase in durability,gloss and repairability from using it...although since we do get most days now about 95 and 95% humidity ,you will have to thin it some like he said,just dont mix the hardener in till youre ready to use it b/c in this humidity it will play doh up on y ou
------------------ Gavin Chachere aka Zeeman Miller Supply Co./Ozone Signs & Grafix New Orleans La. www.millersupply.net www.ozonegrafix.com
Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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