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I'm having a problem with my friction plotter accuratly feeding sandblasting mask without going out of alighnment. Think about it, I've got a lot of down pressure coming from the blade to cut through the stuff. I'm thinking that with that much prissure (which is needed) would be part of the skewing (going out of alighnment) thats occuring. Now I can accept a maybe quarter inch skew; but an whole inch and a half? Would someone have any helpfull advice. The plotter is great on all other material going through with the exception of blast material.
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Tell us what kind of machine you're using. That way those that have experience with it can tell you if it's a typical problem with the plotter or if you can adjust it differently for better results.
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Zion...I believe that Jim stated the obvious and so ddi you. BUT what you didn't say was what kind of cutter you own. I have used a couple of Rolands but couldn't tell you anything about an Ioline. And I am sure that the Ioline users wouldn't be able to give advice on a Graphptec.
Sure would be a lot easier to make a constructive comment if you mentioned a brand name, and a model number would probably be even more helpful.
------------------ Dave Grundy AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley
[This message has been edited by Dave Grundy (edited February 19, 2001).]
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If you are using mask with the heavy clear backing, cut a strip of the mask off (leave the liner) the width of your pinch rollers and run it on just the carrier sheet. If you are using the stuff with the real thin plastic backing , try spray mounting it to some intermeadiate vinyl and run the pinch wheels on the vinyl. I have a hard time cutting borders much over 48" long on my Summa, so I just cut the corners with the plotter and "commect the dots" with a straight edge.
------------------ Greg Gulliford aka MetroDude Metro Signs and Banners 1403 N. Greene St. #1 Spokane, WA 99202 509-536-9452
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I've had that prob myself, and I plan to do what Greg has said the next time or maybe to wrap a piece of plastic tape or masking tape around the edges to cover 3/4 inch of the rubber on both sides. This MAY keep the pinch rollers from getting stretch/skewed in the rollers. You could cut it back and then stick the buildup on the backing for 3/4 inch for more support in the pinch....Somebody here said their was rubber mask that didn't go clear to the edges like the prepunched feeds. Bronzeo
------------------ Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801
Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Jack, The 15" punched mask is the one you are thinking of, it has about a 3/4" wide strip on both sides that is just the right size to run the pinch wheels on.
------------------ Greg Gulliford aka MetroDude Metro Signs and Banners 1403 N. Greene St. #1 Spokane, WA 99202 509-536-9452
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I use an Ioline 24'' and Anchor #153 stencil.
#1 The Anchor resist is covered with powder. Wipe this off with a damp rag a couple of times. Wipe off the back of the clear carrier and the rubber stencil.
#2 Make sure the 2 pinchwheels(24 lb force) at the edges are riding on the carrier(there is about .5 inch on each side). Make sure the pinchwheels and the gritshaft are clean
#3 Ioline provided us with some 8 lb. pinch wheels to go across the middle of the stencil. They will not mash the rubber and distort it. Use these
#4 make sure the stencil is tracking straight before pressing the "plot" button.
#5 Make sure the stencil can move freely in front of and behind the plotter with no obstructions..
#6 As mentioned above, borders seem to compound the problem
#7 Set the cutter on minimum speed.
#8 Set the cutter's acceleration to minimum
#9 Use a sharp 60 degree plotter blade
#10 Use only enough downforce to cut the rubber (just barely scratching the carrier).
#11 If you're sure you've taken all the above precautions, (plus maybe a couple more) press the plot button.
#12 PRAY
#13 If all of this doesn't solve the problem, pop a couple of Xanax or find some inanimate metallic object, destroy it, reduce it to atoms with your bare hands, take a walk, meet with your support group or psychiatrist, come back........sit down..........Take a few deep breaths.........and design something with inset borders, outlined letters, flourishes, a nice curvy shape, and a semi-detailed logo/graphic, save it on a floppy and take it with a roll of sandblast stencil to the next trade show. Have each of the plotter reps cut the design on the sandmask with his machine to see which one will track accurately.
#14 Buy that machine!
------------------ Wayne Webb Webb Sign Studio creators of "woodesigns" "autograph your work with excellence" webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
[This message has been edited by Wayne Webb (edited February 19, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by Wayne Webb (edited February 19, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by Wayne Webb (edited February 19, 2001).]
Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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I have found a few sandblast resists that skew easily. To remedy this when I had to get the job done I ran a strip of masking tape along the bottom of the slippery liner and located it so the rollers rode the tape. One time I used the masking tape top and bottom and got the stuff to work. I also like the #153.
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Oh, for the faith of a spider! He begins his web without any thread.
Posts: 6759 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I can't speak with authority on any plotter other than Roland, but something in your post hit me.
Quote: Now I can accept a maybe quarter inch skew; but an whole inch and a half?
If you are using the right sandblast resist for a friction plotter, you would be off the carrier sheet (release liner) before you could skew that much. Are your pinch rollers riding on the rubber? You MUST use rubber designed for a friction plotter, namely rubber with a plastic release liner that sticks out beyond the rubber 5/8 inch like Anchor 153 (medium tack) or 155 (high tack). The friction rollers ride ONLY on the plastic release liner.
I have no problem tracking straight. Wayne hit the nail on the head with plotter settings and such, but I do one thing Wayne didn't mention. I break large signs down into smaller sections. I almost always avoid cutting a length of rubber much more than 4 feet long. MUCH MORE THAN THAT JUST GETS TOO DARN HEAVY FOR THE PLOTTER.
The only other thing I can think of is that your pinch roller tension springs may be worn where they can't put enough pressure on the plastic carrier sheet. Do they leave a grit roller impression on HP vinyl? They should be if they are squeezing hard enough.
------------------ Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 ICQ: 21604027 sherwood@up.net
Posts: 5407 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
Thanks guys for all the great suggestions. I've never thought of those possible remedies before and will, first thing Tues., try them out.
My plotter is a Graphtec 1000CE 24" cutter and the problem is not of software......
The Mask material is a fairly new product,but ironicly made for todays friction feed type plotters. Come to think of it, I remember seeing a shiney/slick carrier paper in back of the mask. That may be the problem one of you mentioned. The name brand of the product I can't remember off hand. It is gray in color and fairly thin. As far as it being a compatible sand mask, it is very good. I just had a 1' x 24' sign blasted and it consisst of a thin (1/8) out-line going around all of the lettering. Detail was very clean and the mask held up well. Being that the adhesive was not very assuring, yet it really held up to the blasting just perfect. But again, it fails in going through the plotter correctly arena.
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Zion... Well, I wish I hadn't asked about your cutter. The CE-1000 is a lightweight in the cutter business. It's designed that way. And weight is the problem in this instance... A 10 yd. roll of masking material weighs nearly as much as the plotter does. It is very difficult for the CE-1000 to accurately move lengths of 0.035" rubber longer than 4 to 5' unless you cut that much off the roll and treat it as sheet material. Also, you should use the CB15-K30A blade. There are two kinds of material you won't be able to cut: the sandblast stencil with the flimsey backing, sort of like Saran wrap, and Hartco's monument grade stencil. The Hartco material is much harder, PVC instead of rubber, I think, and it tracks much better even if you put the pinch rollers on the stencil surface; but alas, the -1000 lacks both the requisite force and the tangential (thick) mode necessary to cut it. Please call or e-mail me for additional info or help. hk
------------------ Howard Keiper Sales Mgr., Graphtec Benicia, Ca. keip@pacbell.net
Posts: 409 | From: Benicia, Ca., USA | Registered: Dec 1999
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Sorry Zion, I was a bit flipant because you really didn't supply much info to go on. Looks like Howard has your answer. If you do much of that kind of work you should get the tool for the job.
------------------ "hooked on fonix" Olympia WA
Posts: 797 | From: Olympia, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Thanks Howard, but fortunatly the machine 'did do the job', though the skewing was there, never the less it cut the mask with no problem. Accuracy of cut was excellant. Today I did try one of the suggetions; that is applying tape on the bottom of the carrier paper and that workded fine in contact with the grid-grip, with just 1/4 of an inch skewing. It's sure is good to have advice from the labor department and not just engineer knowledge.
But I'm thinking to getting a heavier wieght plotter soon. I hav'nt decided what brand yet. Due to the shortage of redwood expecially here in the islands, blasted signs are fading into history past. My cutting is mainly assorted vinyls at this time and I love this Graphtec plotter. If there is a call for a blasted sign, I'm going with SignFoam which is readily available here.
Oh, by the way for those still interested in the brand name blast mask: Cover-up...good product.
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