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I am trying to get a nice glossy finish on a sign foam blank and I'm having some difficulty. My paint of choice is white 1-shot.
It seems that no matter what I try, I'm getting little bumps and imperfections on the surface.
I have tried a regular brush and also a foam brush, straight 1-shot on one attempt and thinned with penetrol on the next. Each time the imperfections occur. Back to sanding and trying again. This sure can get frustrating, not to mention time consuming (a day to dry each time).
Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm not setup to spray yet. Thanks! - Steve
-------------------- Steve Eason Admiral Signs Juneau, AK Posts: 62 | From: Juneau | Registered: Jan 2003
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See if you can get in touch with J.T. Gazaway in Ft. Worth, Texas. He may be able to help you get close to what you're looking for but I've never seen foam that felt smooth like glass.
<jt@jt-graphicdesign.com> (last known Email address, LOL)
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Steve, how well did you clean the foam before you started painting? Some say vaacum it,but I prefer washing it really well. If you prime, sand, then wash again you should get a finish that is slick. I've done it and I'm no old pro.
-------------------- Kathy Joiner River Road Graphics 41628 River Road Ponchatoula, La.70454
Old enough to know better...Too young to resist. Posts: 1891 | From: Ponchatoula, LA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Sorry about being late getting back, it seems like life has been full of small fires lately.
Kathy, you asked about how I cleaned the foam. It was brushed well with a hand shop brush, then vacuumed. I did not wash the panel, I need to try that. On a side note, I have gotten similar results (small particle looking bumps) when rolling 1-shot on dibond and alumilite.
I will also try and email Linda's friend in Texas. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks! - Steve
-------------------- Steve Eason Admiral Signs Juneau, AK Posts: 62 | From: Juneau | Registered: Jan 2003
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Steve, you mentioned that you get the same results on other substrates. Could it be contamination in the room you are painting in? Some things are air borne. Could even be particles from the HDU.
Keep bumping this post up so that one of the "Old Pros" can see it. They should be able to give you the exact cause.
I almost forgot...JT was going out of town at some point, if he doesn't answer the email right away, you may have try again or wait a spell (day or two) I wish you luck and I hope JT can enlighten you on everything you need to get this straightened out. His nick on chat is FoamManiac.
I got to see some of his stuff in person and the pics never do justice to the real application. In this case, that is an understatement!
Kathy,
I think your idea to really wash it off good is great, sometimes you just can't see what's lose at the surface and the water can help you find and loosen these imperfections without gouging or scratching the surface.
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I gotta admit that the shop is not really a "clean" room. It is surprising though that these imperfections are occuring within minutes of applying the paint. They do seem pretty large to be the result of dust/other stuff in the air. I will keep you posted. - Steve
-------------------- Steve Eason Admiral Signs Juneau, AK Posts: 62 | From: Juneau | Registered: Jan 2003
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what type of roller are you using? sounds like the paint is orange peeling.
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I have painted, not liked the results, and sanded several different times. Each time I have used something different: wide paintbrush, foam brush, and foam roller.
After pain(t)ing, I wait about 10min then tip out with the brush or roller. - Steve
-------------------- Steve Eason Admiral Signs Juneau, AK Posts: 62 | From: Juneau | Registered: Jan 2003
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If you say you got it clean..it must be clean....but I notice you did'nt mention yer primer...oil base paint will melt that stuff...tho' I'm no pro at usin' the sign foam...the few jobs I've done were primed an' sanded an' primed again or 3 times with a final sanding. Try "straining" the paint...automotive paper strainers are best but on thicker paint may be too fine a mesh. But you could use other things like cheesecloth or in a real pinch I've used bandage material, lol. .Hav'a great day!
-------------------- Signs Sweet Home Alabama
oneshot on chat
"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog" Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003
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I haven't tried it yet, but Karen B says to WASH off the board with water after you sand the primer. I'm going to give that a try tomorrow and I'll let you know how that works out.
Mark
-------------------- Mark Rogan The Great Barrington Sign Company 2 Stilwell Street, Great Barrington, MA 01230 mark@gbsignco.com
"Sometimes I think my head is so big because it is so full of fonts" Posts: 332 | From: Great Barrington, MA | Registered: Mar 2003
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I use One Shot or Deka on my sandblasted signs, but on individual free standing letters done in HDU I use an automotive primer/filler, and then Standox Basecoat automotive paint, gives a really lovely deep gloss finish.
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The Pound density may be a factor also. I usally carve,sand,clean,wash,prime(Jay Cook,s) Finish coat(Benjaman Moore)Industrial Enamel Layed flat,brushed with "cutter wall brush" thick You will be AMAZED as how "Gravfity" works for ya'
Hope this helps
-------------------- PKing is Pat King The Professor of SIGNOLOGY Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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