We designed a sign from Sign Foam. It is designed to hang from a rought iron 36" arm. The eyes were secured with epoxy. They keep pulling out. I am thinking of using a rought iron c shaped bracket that is secured with a bolt that goes through the top ridge. I don't know where to find them, or even if they exist. Their grand opening is Friday the 13th.....HELP
[ June 07, 2003, 11:00 PM: Message edited by: Rick Beisiegel ]
""Good judgment comes from experience; and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" - Will Rogers Posts: 3506 | From: Beautiful Newaygo, Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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Route or chisel out a spot in the top and put a piece of 1/4" PVC in that spot with epoxy or polyurethane glue. You can then fill gaps if needed and paint. Screws will then stick in those spots.
At least I think that's how I would do it. Maybe someone else will post!!
-------------------- Amy Brown Life Skills 101 Private Address Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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We have a way we do it and have never lost a hanging sign. It may be too late for yours, but we use 2 2" pieces if its a 4" thick double sided. We rout two channels down the inside of the material and lay a rod in each channel. The rods have a 2"x2" square of steel welded to the bottoms and the tops are bent into "J"s for hanging. We use PB240 adhesive to join the panels and then carve them. The metal squares on the bottom take all the weight of the sign. With yours' you'd have to drill two channels through the top to the bottom and push the rods up through the holes, then bend the "J"s into the tops of the rods. Maybe I confused you, no? Oh well.
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Rick, a variation on Amy's post is to drill circular holes and insert wooden closet rod with the epoxy. Then you put your eyehook into the wood. I know this works on smaller signs.
Rosemary's approach spreads the load really well, alas, your sign is already finished.
I think you will have to get a welder to fabricate C brackets if you want to go that way. I would worry about the brackets acting like a gigantic pair of pliers and tearing out a section if there is lots of wind.
-------------------- Victor Georgiou Danville, CA , USA Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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""Good judgment comes from experience; and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" - Will Rogers Posts: 3506 | From: Beautiful Newaygo, Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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""Good judgment comes from experience; and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" - Will Rogers Posts: 3506 | From: Beautiful Newaygo, Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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We don't make anything from HDU anymore without some sort of internal framework that incorporates hangars. For smaller df signs (up to 12 sq ft) we use two pieces of 1" HDU with channels and 1and1/2"x1/4" flat steel between them, glued with the steel sticking out the top (for a hanging sign) or out both sides (for a between-posts installation). For larger signs we go to 1and1/2" HDU, and build an internal frame out of steel. The HDU makers are a bit disingenuous about the (lack of) strength of their product - to be fair, they make HDU, not signs.
I've had signs with pulled-out screw hangars. It seems to be part of the learning curve. Don't use a C-shaped hangar; HDU isn't strong enough, and it it's caught in a high wind it will break out.
To fix THIS sign, get 5" long eye-bolts (NOT screw eyes). Drill holes in the top of the sign, big enough for the whole shaft of the eye-bolt WITH THE NUT ON THE END. Place that down into your hole, with the nut threaded on the bolt flush with the bottom. Fill the hole with a paste made of epoxy and HDU sawdust. If this isn't clear send me an e-mail with a fax number and I'll send you a sketch.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Almost forgot. Use stainless-steel eyebolts, so you don't have a rust problem down the road.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Hopefully we solved the problem. We drilled two 3/16 holes vertically through the sign and attached a nut at the bottom of the threaded rod. We used a two sided threaded collar to hold the eye at the top. Kinda based on Cam's idea. Thanks! The biggest challenge was keeping the drill straight...Here's to hoping!
[ June 10, 2003, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: Rick Beisiegel ]
""Good judgment comes from experience; and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" - Will Rogers Posts: 3506 | From: Beautiful Newaygo, Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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i have used ready rod before drill with a handy bit electrical people use them they come in ft increments up to six feet. i have also used what are called spider nuts which go in to a pre bored hole as the rod is threaded in to place these little fingers expand out to grip the surrounding sides unlike a molly or a wall anchor . urathaned in they hold well. i have also used case hinges which are plates that attach front to back with sex bolts one plate has a attached post and the other threads into in. the hinges come in stainless for rust prevention but get the marine grade if you do cause the other ones are usally a lower grade of stainless. ps using ready rod if you are good with a drill and set it up using a bench ( like sightin in a rifle. you should do ok
-------------------- sam kinnear stick um up signs redmond wa Posts: 93 | From: redmond wa | Registered: Jun 2003
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