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I'm relatively new to the vinyl business and would like some advise on vinyl on vinyl application. My business focuses on racecar lettering and graphics and I layer most of my decals using a wet application on the car. I would like to speed up my process by using a dry method on the table prior to applying it to the vehicle. Every attempt to do this has ended with a bubbly mess. Does anyone have any advise? Are there any tools that might help me? Thanks in advance!!
-------------------- Matt Ginnings Vinyl Works Race Graphics Hermitage, Missouri Posts: 5 | From: Hermitage, Missouri | Registered: Mar 2003
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One of the better ways that I have found to do this is to (depending on how many layers you have) go ahead and mask the individual parts, and then use a light box or a window to align the parts correctly, taping them in such a way that they stay together. Take all of those taped together parts to your vehicle and get it into position. Hinge tape the sections to the vehicle at alternate ends. Start with the back layer and lay it down, I do it dry most of the time, and then go with the next layer and on and on until done.
Some might look at it as a waste of transfer tape, but it does go fast, faster than trying to lay out the graphic on one backing paper and then peel off that tape, which you won't re-use anyway. I've done it both ways and it seems that laying it dry, the method I described above works for me.
-------------------- Jeff Vrstal Main Street Signs 157 E. Main Street Evansville, WI 53536 1-608-882-0322 Posts: 670 | From: Evansville, Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2001
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Matt...I use the same method as Jeff and it is the fastest easiest way to do the job. For a visual look at what he means have a look at Mark Matyjakowski's website and click on the link to "design Pit" and then "tips and tricks"
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
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Just my 2 cents here, I find layering at the substrate wet is still the fastest and simpelest method.
Now you didn't mention what fluid you use (soap&water or application fluid) one is only a "positioning fluid, (to slip and slide vinyl into place), application fluid is a different case and speeds up bond time, eleminates bubbles (especially under overlaped edges).
Roger
-------------------- Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated 186 Combs Dr. Merlin Oregon 97532 Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998
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You can also cut the job so the design that goes over the top is also cut out of the background, so that top layer actually lays within the background layer, thus eliminating the bubbles and resulting in just one layer which is easier to apply.
The only downside is shrinkage will leave a gap later on down the road but hey, it's a race car.
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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When my brother does an inset overlay such as Mike is talking about, he cuts the background cutout with a .02" larger perimeter than the top piece. It helps him get the overlay onto the same plane as the background. The fiftieth of an inch border is hardly noticeable.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5089 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Hi Matt, I just finished doing 21 race cars.
The first thing you might want to consider is going to dry application vinyls. An intermediate vinyl will do fine, considering the cost, speed of application and the fact that they'll most likely get whacked around...lol
For lettering, I ususally create a bolder version and apply it first, then a normal size over it. It's a quick way to get an outline and you can usually do it right on the car. For any designs or cartoons, I usually paint. It's just quicker. here's a few examples
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Looking at Rays race jobs reminds me of all the times I was watching espn racing channel, all those racers with "car cams" when the camera paned across the trunk for a rear view, only to see a "flaping loose" vinyl logo of one of the sponcors.
Ha ha ha ha ha hah, now we have educated a lot of the race teams since then, so the vinyls not flaping much these days!
Roger
-------------------- Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated 186 Combs Dr. Merlin Oregon 97532 Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998
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I'm not that keen on using vinyl on a race car BUT when I do if I'm doing the install most times I'll do it like Jeff and Dave. If the customer is gonna do it , I'll layer it up on the light table using the "cookie cutter" method whenever possible. By keeping it all to one layer the rivits don't become a problem. Intermediate is definately the way to go, we've found it holds up better to "rubbin" HP burns through pretty easily. Of course if you're doing sprints, midgets or anything else with a bunch of compound curves forget it, besides if those things touch they usually do more than "rub".
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
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If you want a dead lay, NEVER layer in the studio. Do it ON THE CAR! If you want the customer to be impressed, cut your copy as a reverse out TEMPLATE in econo, Scotchbrite it and airbrush it with an RG2. Simple to learn, better end result. You can even shade and roll it. 2 color? 2 templates.
k31
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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Thanks for all the good advice!! Another question I might ask is: What's the best transfer tape for those "hard-to-lift" holographic vinyls made by Coburn. I love their materials, but any pieces smaller than an inch are hard to lift. I've been using r-tape 4076, it seems to work well for glossy intermediate vinyls, but just won't cut the mustard for those holographic vinyls.
This was my first season using vinyl on race cars, so I'm still on the learning curve.
One of the main considerations is that these cars only race 18 shows a year and never get over 110 MPH on 1/4 mile tracks. I figured a good 6 year vinyl would take care of the jobs. The numbers are all hand painted since I have only a 6" cutter. Most of the hoods are paint, too, including the "Thor" artwork on the #33 car.
-------------------- Ray Rheaume Rapidfire Design 543 Brushwood Road North Haverhill, NH 03774 rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com 603-787-6803
I like my paint shaken, not stirred. Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003
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