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I have been retired from the Automobile Parts Supply business for 2 years and was looking for a second vocation when I ran across a router cut wood sign maker that produced residential signs "while-you-wait". Since I am handy with wood I thought this would be a great fit for me.
I tried making totally freehand signs but did not produce good results. I then purchased a pantograph from Sears and am now making very professional looking signs. I made about 50 signs this past summer. However, the signs I make take 4 days minimum since I apply 3 coats of spar urethane to protect for outdoor use. I use my computer to make the letters I trace with the pantograph.
One customer, a realtor, asked that I start making signs which he would give as gifts for his customers at his closings. This has been a very good and reliable customer. He later asked me to make his new office sign. A six foot diameter raised letter routed wood sign. After making a small 30" dia model I decided I could do it and am making it now.
This Real Estate One sign obviously has a design that is defined by the franchisor. To manufacture it I simply copied the Logo onto a overhead film and projected onto the large wood blank that I am carving. I then traced the design in pencil to outline what needs to be carved.
My question concerns designing original signage. What is the best way to design original signage? I have seen that Corel Draw is a popular program; but how easy is it to use and master? Are there other programs that are more useful or easier? Also, what are the best methods for layout on the board to be carved?
As all of you can tell I am a rookie at this and need all the help you can give.
Feel free to call me directly on my toll free number 1-877-273-2703, (my nickel for free advice).
Sincerely,
Bill Martin
-------------------- William Martin Lake Enterprises 853 N. East Mullett Lake Rd. Indian River, MI 49749 231 238-7715 WLMARTIN3@HOTMAIL.COM Posts: 1 | From: Indian River, MI | Registered: Nov 2002
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Bill, unless Spar varnish has changed in the last few years, Spar gets cloudy with age and requires a lot of maintenance to keep the sign looking good. Others here can advise you on good UV clear finishes.
In the case of the budget "giveaway" signs, consider just finish sanding and sealing the wood with a coat of clear deck sealer. That will cut down your production time dramatically. When the finish burns off, the wood ages naturally. After a few years, the sign can be lightly sanded and another coat of sealer applied and the sign comes right back to life. Vic G
-------------------- Victor Georgiou Danville, CA , USA Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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I used spar urethane on a picnic table I made. I am not happy with the finish after two years in use. I thought when I bought it, since it was one of the most expensive finishes it would last the longest, I was wrong.
I would suggest CorelDraw 9 check out E-bay for a cheap copy and make sure you do all the updates and you should be very happy with Corel. It is not the easiest but if you take your time and ask good questions you will be able todo almost anything with it.
-------------------- Steve Eisenreich Dezine Signs PO BOX 6052 Stn Forces Cold Lake, Alberta T9M 2C5 Posts: 774 | From: Cold Lake | Registered: Mar 2000
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There is a "learning curve" to Corel and any other program that you might want to use! There are no"magic" programs that will automatically make you an instant "master".
Go to Ebay and purchase a copy of Corel 8 or 9, and also "Corel for Dummies" (or one of the others like it. It will make learning much easier than the manual. Spend some time learning how to use Corel and you will be amazed over all the things that you will be able to do with it!
-------------------- Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
si.allen on Skype
siallen@dslextreme.com
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"
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Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8831 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I think you'll find that CorelDraw will do everything you want and is fairly easy to get started with. One of the fastest ways to get started with it is covered in a book I ran across titled "Sams' Teach Yourself CorelDraw 8 in 24 Hours" (ISBN: 0-672-31253-0). It has 24 one-hour lessons which pretty much covers the basics. I've been happy with CorelDraw 8 but some of the newer versions have improvements that you may or may not be interested in. Also check out "Mastering Layout" by Mike Stevens.
Like many others, I've had trouble with clear Spar varnish finishes & agree with Vic about using deck sealer. I assume you're routing redwood, right?
For freehand layouts on wood for small signs using a v-groove bit, I've had good results covering the board with clear Contac paper, then doing the layout with sharpie pens and routing through the Contac paper which leaves a good paint mask. I've also used inkjet printouts by simply spraying the back with adhesive & applying directly to the wood.
-------------------- Chris Elliott 1longshot@classicnet.net cell 62084two2232 Posts: 686 | From: Scottsdale, AZ & Anthony, KS, USA | Registered: Dec 1999
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Bill, you couldn't do much better than Corel for what you are trying to achieve. I will try to give you a call on Wednesday. Indian River eh? Nice area, been there a few times, even to the church in the woods.
-------------------- Wright Signs Wyandotte, Michigan Posts: 2787 | From: Wyandotte, MI USA | Registered: Jan 1999
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