posted
Is there an easy way in corel to do a node reduction on an entire object, especially a contour object, without losing its original shape. I have a contour that was done around three words, one above the other, so that it basically forms a black background behind the entire area. The contour is loaded with nodes, which when being cut, takes forever. I've tried every trick in my bag to reduce them in large numbers, but I always loose some of the curve, or get a large jaged point off of the object, etc. I've tried selecting them all, then making them curves, and smooth, or cusp, and then using the auto reduce tool, and it always screws something up. The only way I have found to effectively reduce them is to do it little by little, and work my way around the object slowly. This makes for a very unhappy Dave though. I hope this makes sense, and isn't too long winded. If need be I could post a picture of the object I'm currently working on to give a better idea of what I mean. Thanks in advance. Maybe someone could do a "how to" on this one!
-------------------- Dave Utter D-utterguy on chat Sign Designs Beardstown, Il. signdesigns@casscomm.com Posts: 777 | From: beardstown, illinois, usa | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
Dave...I will be watching to see if someone has an answer to this question. I know I don't have one.
Seems that Corel can only perform a perfect contour by using a gazillion nodes. In ve4rsion 9 the number of nodes in a contour was kept to an absolute minimum and as a result that feature was very often inaccurate.
I don't know if you are exporting to a sign program for cutting but I find that the overabundance of nodes doesn't seem to affect the cutter when cutting direct from Corel.
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
I'm cutting with a mimaki cutter, through their "Fine Cut" program. I guess it would be a bridge program. man, when that sucker cuts a contour, it takes forever. If I have to cut several of the same thing, it is worth my time to go in and delete as many nodes as I can before cutting. But like I say, you can only do a few at a time, and God help you if you multiselect a few curves, and get one line node. As Emeral Lugosy would say BAM theres a jaged edge! hahahaha. Maybe we should tell corel we want this on the wish list............
-------------------- Dave Utter D-utterguy on chat Sign Designs Beardstown, Il. signdesigns@casscomm.com Posts: 777 | From: beardstown, illinois, usa | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
I don't think there is an easy way to reduce nodes. Your on the right track about changing to curve. When you contour, you'll end up with a zillion nodes because they are all lines.
Here is what I do. After contouring, separate, the contour, and duplicate it in place. I then change the color of the line to easily identify it from the original contour. Select the object, switch to node edit. Drag a box to select all of the nodes, then holding Shift, unselect nodes at either end of any lines you want to leave.
Change remaining nodes to curve. Click on Smooth to get rid of the jagged edges then click on Cusp so the lines stay in place when you delete nodes.
At this point, while holding shift, unselect the nodes in the center of the valleys an tops of the outside curves. Once you are satisfied you have the nodes unselected you want to keep, hit Delete.
Usually, some of your curves will have moved slightly from the original contour. Since you have the original duplicated under the section you just edited, you can zoom in around the curve and adjust the shape back to where it should be. Once you have the shape back, hit Shift, Page Down to send it below the orignal, select the original and delete it. Lots of steps but I haven't found any other way of doing it quicker or easier.
A few things to note - Using Auto reduce will almost always distort your shape.
When working with shapes, always select all the nodes and turn them to cusp before editing.
When contouring lines, at either end of your line, using your freehand tool, draw an extension out a little way from each edge angled slightly away from what you will be keeping. What this does is gives you a node above and below the intended edge of the original contour. When you separate the shapes, you can then delete the nodes beyond your intended contour, click on the wild shape at the end of the line (you'll get a black circle showing where you clicked) and turn it to a line. You can then adjust it to the desired shape.
Contouring elipses or circles before converting to curves will prevent unwanted nodes.
-------------------- Dave Johnson Saltsburg, PA
724-459-7240 Posts: 228 | From: Saltsburg, PA | Registered: Dec 2001
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posted
I have Corel 9, but never use it. I read the Corel posts though, because I can sometimes learn things that will help in illustrator. I'll post my illustrator solution in case it points to any possible Corel approach.
I do a lot of decals on the Edge & often I create a simplified cut line around an image or text. I may print on clear & to save on weeding time create a shape that looks better then a basic rectangle, but weeds as fast.
Sometimes an outline has so many nodes that all you see on the curves is a solid string of nodes. This will definitly slow down my plotter, so for large runs, like Dave said, it's worth reducing them.
I'll take the decal graphics,(in this case "three words stacked") assign a stroke value (in this case 25 points) & then in Illustrator, pull down "object" menu to "path" and choose "outline path".
The initial result (not shown) is a contour for both inside & outside of the 25 point stroke width. I'll "release compound" (or un-combine) & delete this inside line leaving a bubble shape cut line around my graphic. This weeds fast, has less sharp corners then many graphic images would have & is a more durable decal as a result. (sharp corners seem to come unstuck when washed with a rag for example)
I'm not sure how many nodes you Corel folks are getting, but the screen capture shown below is a lot less nodes then I used to get using other methods.
posted
WOW! and out of these answers came THE ANSWER. I took the original, and hit copy and paste, thus another one on top of the old one. I made the entire original one red. The new one was made kiwi green, and given a 60% transperency. On the new one I selected all nodes, change them all to curve, and made them all smooth. I then did a auto reduce. There were maybe 15 places that it affected the shape, and they were quite obvious in those colors. it basically gave me burnt orange over bright red. Of course i guess any contrasting colors would do. It only took a couple of minutes to go around the image and "fix" the bad spots. They are almost perfect in this instance, which is great! There may be some times when more precision is needed but not this time. Man, when us Dave's put our heads together, great things happen! hahahaha. Maybe I'll do my own step by step and put it up! thanks!
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
I hope this makes sense, and isn't too long winded. If need be I could post a picture of the object I'm currently working on to give a better idea of what I mean. Thanks in advance. Maybe someone could do a "how to" on this one! ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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