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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Prepping HDO

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Author Topic: Prepping HDO
Jeff Wisdom
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Member # 6193

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I have researched and reread some of the old posts and they have been helpful. I want to know more of the process, primer and painted used. I have a project using High Density Overlay, although I would prefer MDO, the "county" requires HDO. I know some of you have had to work with it, sanding and priming. What process works best? I was planning to sand the edges and the faces with 220 and priming with Benjamin Moore Fresh Start.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[ April 06, 2015, 08:13 PM: Message edited by: Jeff Wisdom ]

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Jeff Wisdom
SignWorks
info@oregonsignworks.com

Posts: 450 | From: Oregon | Registered: Dec 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Kevin W. Betz
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I would use Jay Cook's Wood Primer. The key is to roll it on and feather the primer. It is a High Build Primer, meaning it is thicker than a normal primer, so spread it on evenly and thin.

When dry, usually an hour or so, lightly sand to remove the High Spots, wipe down with a damp RAG.

Let dry 1/2 hour. after that, I would suggest Manor Hall Exterior from Pittsburgh Paint.

Don't forget to file the edges round. Paint
will creep away from sharp edges.

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Kevin Betz
KB Sign Company
21321 Ulrich
Clinton Township, MI 48036
kbsigncompany@att.net

Posts: 229 | From: Detroit, MI | Registered: Sep 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
DianeBalch
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Member # 1301

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We have always used MDO. If HDO is layered like MDO, I would seal the edges with West Systems epoxy mixed with their fairing compoung--mixed to the consistancy of peanut butter. Let it cure 6-7 hours then sand and prime and paint it
Each time you put a layer of paint on. We have MDO signs out there that we made 15-18 years ago and they haven't delaminates.

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Balch Signs
1045 Raymond Rd
Malta, NY 12020
518 885-9899
signs@balchsigns.com
http://www.balchsigns.com

Posts: 1695 | From: MaltaNY | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dale Feicke
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It's been a good while, since I've used HDO, Jeff; it's almost impossible to find it, in this neck of the woods.

But I think the main thing to remember, is that the overlay coating is very "slick" and anything you can do, whether is the sanding or the primer, to increase the "bite" of the paint......the better off you'll be.

It's a great product, and I wish I still had access to it; but it's a bit harder to get paint to stick well to it, than MDO. We used to use XIM (white, not clear) primer, which was oil (solvent) based with good results. Maybe some of the primers listed above are better, by today's standards.

[ April 07, 2015, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: Dale Feicke ]

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Dale Feicke Grafix
714 East St.
Mendenhall, MS 39114

"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me."

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Alicia B. Jennings
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Okay, what is HDO? Hmmmmmm, Heavy Duty Other-Wood-Product?

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Signs by Alicia Jennings (Mudflap Girl)
Tacoma, WA
Since 1987
Have Lipstick, will travel.

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Guy H. J. Hilliard
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H(igh) D(ensity) O(verlay)

Basically good quality exterior rated plywood with a phenolic resin-impregnated paper surface bonded to both sides. Frequently used to make concrete forms and signs.

MDO has a medium density paper surface and is sometimes called Crezon.

Both machine nicely on a (blue) CNC router like yours. :oP

[ April 08, 2015, 01:53 PM: Message edited by: Guy H. J. Hilliard ]

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Guy Hilliard
Sawdust and Noise
CNC Routing /
Laser Cutting and Engraving
Brampton, Ont.
Canada

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Robert Graham
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I don't know what brand of HDO you have but if you Google Olympic Panel Highway HDO Sign Board and you will find a spec sheet and preping proceedures for their HDO. You can also call them for technical advice. Hope this helps [Smile]

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Robert Graham
Grahamsville Signs
1120 E McReavy Road
Union, Washington 98592
360-898-2260
Fax 360-898-2262
e-mail:gvs@hctc.com

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Bob Sauls
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I have used the epoxy on MDO edges but I lean more to smoothing on a layer of 25 year elastometric caulk on those edges before priming and painting with high end W.B. 100% acrylic paint. the flexibility of both will protect those edges. But you must take great care not to slide the panels around on the edges while you are working on them.

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Bob Sauls
Sauls Signs & Designs
Tallahassee, Fl

"Today I'll meet nice people and draw for them!"

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Ricardo Davila
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Forget, sealers.....How about trim caps?.....Looks nice on the edges.

http://www.emplastic.com/en/products/sign-led/let-r-edge-trim/edge-cap


RD

[ April 09, 2015, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: Ricardo Davila ]

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Ricardo Davila
Showroom Window Advertising
P.O. Box 1376
Edmond, Oklahoma 73083

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Jeff Wisdom
Resident


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Good input!
Its a county sign project for covered bridge signs and it specs out no caps. But sanding with 80 grit proved to be very successful. Primed with Sherwin Williams Oil Blocking Sealing Primer. Turning out great so far. I do plan to double prime and seal the edges.

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Jeff Wisdom
SignWorks
info@oregonsignworks.com

Posts: 450 | From: Oregon | Registered: Dec 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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