At one time I had a product that was an adhesive for sandblast resist for wood. You would roll it on, let it tack up and apply your resist to the wood. Seems it has been missing for a few years now. I have a project I am doing for a friend...(free-bee). He wants me to set it up for him so he can sandblast a piece of maple but I don't have any adhesive. Does anyone know of something else I can use that will hold the resist to the wood during sandblasting?
Wood glue...? Spray glue...?
It also has to be removed after it is blasted. I don't want to purchase another can because I don't do any wood signs here...just Urethane.
Hep me....hep me...
Jackson
-------------------- Jackson Smart Jackson's Signs Port Angeles, WA ...."The Straits of Juan De Fuca in my front yard and Olympic National Park in my backyard...
"Living on Earth is expensive...but it does include a free trip around the Sun" Posts: 1000 | From: Port Angeles, Washington | Registered: Jan 1999
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Jackson, the sandblast resist made by Anchor for blasting raw wood has a very strong adhesive on it already. So much so that on redwood or cedar it will actually tear some of the wood off during removal. I wouldn't add any extra adhesive if you have the high tack stencil. Warn your customer though, he won't get a real deep blast on hardwood. I blasted an oak blank once and it took a very long time to get a depth of just over an eighth inch, by which time the rubber had just about had it. The rubber on any small detail will not hold up on hardwood.
[ July 09, 2012, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I have a can of stuff, still out in the barn which was once my sign shop. Been out there for probably 15 years. Best I can recollect, I opened the lid, took one whiff, and could feel my brain cells frying. It would probably cost a fortune to send your way. For bare wood, I would use Anchor Continental #155 high tack stencil. That way, you don't need to mess around with the stinky solvent.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Looks like I should scrap the sandblast idea. I don't have any high tack stencil....so maybe I will do it with a router.
Dave...thanks for the reminder about hardwood. You are correct about that. I had forgotten. I used cedar in the past.
Wayne....Yikes. I remember that smell also now that you mention it. Thanks :-)
Jackson
-------------------- Jackson Smart Jackson's Signs Port Angeles, WA ...."The Straits of Juan De Fuca in my front yard and Olympic National Park in my backyard...
"Living on Earth is expensive...but it does include a free trip around the Sun" Posts: 1000 | From: Port Angeles, Washington | Registered: Jan 1999
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I use Hartco 425 on raw wood without any problems.... probably on over 800 signs by now. It doesn't need any adhesion enhancer. I can't cut Anchor on my plotter. It stretches all over the place, kinda like trying to cut pantyhose. I don't like the way it adheres to Corafoam though, so I always roll on a very thin coat of FreshStart first ........ just enough to make it stick. I can't imagine why it wouldn't stick to maple, but Dave's absolutely correct ..... sandblasting any hardwood is a slow tedious process.
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 475 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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When cutting the Anchor 153 or 155(high tac) on my Ioline plotter......
#1 I cut what I need for the job off the roll, adding 1.5" for the grit shaft.
#2 clean the white powder off the front side of the stencil and the Mylar edges.
#3. Clean all my pinch wheels with rubbing alcohol.
#4 Align it in the plotter using 24 lb. pinch wheels on the Mylar edges only. I further stabilize it by using one 8 lb pinch wheel directly onto the stencil material at each end, about 4 inches in from the edge. Double check the tracking.
#5 Set the cut length in the software to cut only about 12" to 16" at a time.
#6 set the maching on the lowest speed.
It never stretches and I get perfect cuts. But after this last job of 12 signs, I'm retiring the stencils and selling the sandblaster. It's a 600# capacity pot mounted on a little trailer. Anyone interested?
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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If you have some low tack sandblast mask on hand, you can try prefinishing the wood. The low tack stuff usually sticks fairly well to gloss paints and clears. Of course, if this job calls for natural wood, that's not an option.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5084 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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That would be my first choice, David. That's why I use Anchor #153. Anymore, I only use the higher tac 155 for stone. It will even stick very well to rough sandstone and will hold up to some deep blasting without the need of an adhesive or anything.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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I think I am going to abandon the sandblast idea. It is more work than I want to get into on this project. It is for a friend and it is his maple piece. I think I will rout it with my hand held router. He will be happy with that.
Thanks again everyone....
Jackson
-------------------- Jackson Smart Jackson's Signs Port Angeles, WA ...."The Straits of Juan De Fuca in my front yard and Olympic National Park in my backyard...
"Living on Earth is expensive...but it does include a free trip around the Sun" Posts: 1000 | From: Port Angeles, Washington | Registered: Jan 1999
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