Letterville Bull Board Letterville | Bull Board
 


 

Front Page
A Letterhead History
About Us
Become A Resident
Edit Your Database Info
Find A Letterhead

Letterville Merchants
Resident Downloads
Letterville BookShop
Future Live Meets
Past Meets
Step-By-Steps
Past Panel Swaps
Past SOTM
Letterhead Profiles
Business Cards
Become A Merchant

Click on the button
below to chat with other
Letterville users.

http://www.letterville.com/ubb/chaticon.gif

Steve & Barb Shortreed
144 Hill St., E.
Fergus, ON, Canada
N1M 1G9

Phone: 519-787-2892
Fax: 519-787-2673
Email: barb@letterville.com

Copyright ©1995-2008
The Letterhead Website

 

 

The Letterville BullBoard Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
my profile login | search | faq | calendar | im | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Projecting images

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: Projecting images
Debbie Karr
Visitor
Member # 11598

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Debbie Karr   Author's Homepage   Email Debbie Karr       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I will be creating my first mural using the projection method. I've always used the good ol' graphic method by re-creating a small scale drawing to large scale on the wall. It's time-consuming to say the least. My know-how of projecting has only come from the Walldogs BUT I don't know how to go about sizing my image onto sheets of acetate. My mural is 20x28w so I would imagine I need to break down the size to create 4, 6, 8... images to equal the 20x28w size. [Confused] I also realize that my projection depth will play a factor. Hopefully this all makes sense.

Next is the type of acetate to choose. I have a Cannon printer ... is there a brand of acetate to choose over another, what mil thickness should I use.... maybe I should stick with my old way which I know best. [Frown] Any advice or help is much appreciated. [Thanks]

See ya'll in Arcola!!! [Applause]

--------------------
Debbie Karr
Land’s End ARI
Artist/Illustrator

Posts: 45 | From: Florida/Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Arnott
Resident


Member # 215

Icon 1 posted      Profile for John Arnott   Email John Arnott   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Debbie, I would suggest that you set up the projector and make a quick test size. Remember that it will distorts somewhat toward the edges. I just draw on the acetate and do some measurments.
First thing to note is where you can place the projector. Sometimes you can't set the projector exactly where you want to. I once "had" to make it from way across the street.
Hope this makes sence. It's easy to figure out by testing this way.

--------------------
John Arnott
El Cajon CA
619 596-9989
signgraphics1@aol.com
http://www.signgraphics1.com

Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Debbie Karr
Visitor
Member # 11598

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Debbie Karr   Author's Homepage   Email Debbie Karr       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Why didn't I think of that. Good idea. Thanks

--------------------
Debbie Karr
Land’s End ARI
Artist/Illustrator

Posts: 45 | From: Florida/Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
FranCisco Vargas
Deceased


Member # 145

Icon 1 posted      Profile for FranCisco Vargas   Author's Homepage   Email FranCisco Vargas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Debbie, I would suggest making your drawing to scale, in your case maybe making it to 10"x14" (1/2" scale) it can also be made into two pieces and use clear tape to seam it together. you can then either scan it and print on "inkjet transparencies" for your printer unless its a laser printer then you can use any type of tranparency. More then likely you will have to be around 20'-30' from your wall. I would get a rolling cart and make a line on the ground with either a string, rope or chalk and follow it to so you stay in the same distance and not get out of wack for your drawing. I would also recommend to try to stay out of people homes in the middle of the night using their windows to project from. good luck and hope this helps you some... [Wink]

--------------------
aka:Cisco the "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist"
http://www.franciscovargas.com
Fresno, CA 93703
559 252-0935
"to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98

Posts: 3576 | From: Fresno, Ca, the great USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Debbie Karr
Visitor
Member # 11598

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Debbie Karr   Author's Homepage   Email Debbie Karr       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
LMAO!!! [Rolling On The Floor] Been there, done that! Good advice! I will also take John's advice & do some test samples. Thanks so much [Group Hug] See you in Arcola!

--------------------
Debbie Karr
Land’s End ARI
Artist/Illustrator

Posts: 45 | From: Florida/Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brent Logan
Resident


Member # 6587

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Brent Logan   Email Brent Logan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Debbie, Don't mess around with buying a box of transparency sheets if there's a Kinkos nearby. Just print your drawing on paper and have them make a copy on a transparency.

--------------------
Brent Logan
Reno, NV

Posts: 919 | From: Reno, NV | Registered: Jun 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Preston McCall
Visitor
Member # 351

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Preston McCall   Author's Homepage   Email Preston McCall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I find projectors a total pain in the side. Can't get the distortion correct and the light is never bright enough. Hate getting up on a scissors or manlift in the dark and having to chase shadows.
Personally, I much prefer just a scale drawing. If it is a concrete block wall or brick, I even lay in the exact shape of the blocks on the drawing and blow up separate areas of the drawing per group of blocks to get tight detail right. I find this much faster, but it does require some drawing and lettering abilities.

I rough it in just using a 2" latex brush and then try to do as much as possible with a fluffy roller. I did a RAM sign on block last fall with a 3" roller and had it done in one day. http://www.prestonmccall.com/wall_murals.htm
The one below was on the inside of a client's house with the football players and stadium. It took me eight days, as I had to quadruple coat out the walls first with the deep red. It was below freezing here, then and the 8 days inside was a blessing, especially when I charged +$10k to do them.

--------------------
Preston McCall
112 Rim Road
Santa Fe, New Mexico
87501
text: 5056607370

Posts: 1552 | From: Santa Fe, New Mexico | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


Contact Us | Letterville. A Community Of Letterheads & Pinheads!

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2

Search For Sign Supplies
Category:
 

                  

Letterhead Suppliers Around the World