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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Mounting Gemini Letters to block wall - - another question.

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Author Topic: Mounting Gemini Letters to block wall - - another question.
Todd Gill
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Ok, I mounted one of three signs I did to a brick wall yesterday. Went great.

Today, I have to mount another sign to an interior 'block (cinder block)' wall.

I have gathered together all the good advice you people gave me for attaching Gemini letters in a previous post...but have one additional question (or two):

The Gemini letters I have are 4" tall letters...and each letter has roughly 4 offset studs, as I am offsetting the letters on the wall to come out evenly with the offset main sign element. The letters will arc over the top of the main sign element, and there is also a straight line of letters that will be under the main sign element.

So... I am wondering... with these small letters having 4 studs apiece in relatively close proximity to each other, is there a risk that a hammer drill will bust out a large section of the cinder block? I wonder this because there are a 'ton' of studs cumulatively, and the studs are only about 2" apart from each other on each letter.

I'm a little nervous about putting a GOB of holes in a cinder block wall..with the holes all being quite close together. Any worries there?

Do I really need to use all the studs on each Gemini letter, or could I get by with 3, rather than four - - keeping the 3 spaced out to form a 'triangle' of studs?

What's your advice on this install? Thanks.

Here's an image of the sign... the outer letters around the shield are the Gemini letters in question. I redesigned the shield/state element to a more dimensional look in a digital print..mounted to 3/4" PVC...contour cut with 'offset' blocks on the back.

EDIT: The Gemini letters are molded brite gold - goes well with the sign - however there will be no black border on them. The letters will be a bit smaller than what is shown here..and obviously spaced apart so they are not touching one another....just to clarify.

 -

[ September 30, 2009, 08:35 AM: Message edited by: Todd Gill ]

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Todd Gill
Outside The Lines
Potterville, MI

Posts: 7792 | From: Potterville, MI | Registered: Dec 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Eric Elmgren
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Member # 11536

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Todd, I've done a fair amount of Gemini letters over the years, I would recommend just using the 2 farthest apart studs per letter. Obviously, there's no load there so the studs are mainly for orientation. Gemini is sometimes inconsistent in studs per letter anyway, some 18" letters only have 4 studs for instance (besides the "I").

Good looking sign.

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Eric Elmgren
ericsignguy@comcast.net
A & E Graphic Signs
Park Ridge, IL
"The future isn't what it used to be" -Yogi Berra

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Neil D. Butler
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What Eric said. Good advice.

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"Keep Positive"

SIGNS1st.
Neil Butler
Paradise, NF

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Todd Gill
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Thank you guys!!

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Todd Gill
Outside The Lines
Potterville, MI

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Dick Bohrer
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Often on interior letters we use pads and put 3M
VHB tape on them, it is suprising how well they stick. That way you have no holes to patch if the sign needs to be changed. But the wall has to be
level and painted.

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Silver Creek Signworks
Dick Bohrer
Two Harbors, MN

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Eric Elmgren
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Dick, you getting much fall color yet? I wish I had your scenery to look at instead of mine.

I've done that also with cutout letters but molded or formed letters don't have pads flush with the edges & VHB tape pulls off paint and plaster, still stuck with patching & painting anyway if you move 'em.

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Eric Elmgren
ericsignguy@comcast.net
A & E Graphic Signs
Park Ridge, IL
"The future isn't what it used to be" -Yogi Berra

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Todd Gill
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Got the signs done and up...shown on the portfolio page.. thanks for everyone's advice!

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Todd Gill
Outside The Lines
Potterville, MI

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Brad Ferguson
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Todd,

Glad the job went well. Yes, two studs can hold a small letter nicely, especially if it's a flush mount.
Another point that might be useful to some.
Not all hammer drills work the same. My old Hilti has a big, course hammer action. My Milwaukee has a smaller, faster hammering. My DeWalt cordless is smaller yet, almost delicate. The Milwaukee and the cordless are far less prone to breaking out chunks of masonry than the Hilti. I don't even consider using the Hilti on stonework anymore. It breaks a stone every time. Also, many hammer drills, like the Milwaukee, have a chisel-only setting, that you can use to carefully start a hole, make a little dent, sort-of, before you actually start boring. This is very handy.

I once had to stud mount one-inch brass letters to a podium. I bored small holes in the backs with the drill press, then glued tiny nails in the holes, cutting the heads off when the glue hardened. To install, I mounted the letters to a piece of cardboard, then taped the cardboard to the wood surface. By pressing on the letters while the cardboard was taped to the podium, the cardboard flexed enough to allow the studs to mark the surface for drilling.
The letters had originally been glued, but kept falling off. Hence the studs.

Brad in Kansas City

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Brad Ferguson
See More Signs
7931 Wornall Rd
Kansas City, MO 64111
signbrad@yahoo.com
816-739-7316

Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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