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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » PVC Gurus... Have some Questions

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Author Topic: PVC Gurus... Have some Questions
Billie DeBekker
Member # 3848

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I have started using more and More PvC recently on jobs due to Cost restraints and I just love how it Routs. But I do have a few questions.

1. What is the trick to sanding this stuff.. It seams when we try to sand it by hand it goes no where except plugging up the sandpaper.. (It fine when I use my bandsaw sander just leaves a little flash that I can snap off.

2. Is there anything better then Silicone to glue letters on. I use regular PvC Cement to glue it to itself and that works great but I have had a few issues with the letters falling off with DAP Silicone. I started Taking a Knife and Cross Hatching the back to help the glue Bite or pinning it but was curious if there was anything better.

3. When painting are you priming it. It seams to love straight paint without any primer but I Don't feel like getting any surprises down the road.

Thanks Bill

Billie DeBekker
3rd Dimension Signs
Canon City Colorado 81212

"Another Fine Graduate of the Ray Charles School of Sign Painting."

Posts: 2530 | From: Canon City, Colorado | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ron Percell

Member # 399

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Not sure about about your sanding needs, but I've used heated tools to smooth edges.

I use "100% pure silocone by G.E." with foam double backed tape for installation.

On 1/4" or thicker PVC you may drill post hole and insert threaded rod.

Only use PVC for interior projects such as menus

Noe primer, one shot with hardener sprayed or Krylon.

Good Luck

Ron Percell
Percell Signs
Petaluma, California

Letterhead Sign Supply

Home of the MicroMeet!
Percell Signs Web Site
About the Author
Ron Percell

Posts: 913 | From: Petaluma,California,U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jean Shimp

Member # 198

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PVC is our most used substrate. We make cut out letters, use it for sign faces and also make routed signs with it. We only buy white or black (1/2" thick)and paint it with acrylic latex house paint. Scuff the surface lightly and spray or roll the finish coat, no primer. The cut edges are rough. If you want a smooth edge, use a different substrate or be prepared to spend a lot of time priming and sanding and painting the PVC edges. Most of our sign are exterior. For gluing, abrade the back side and use silicone adhesive.

Jean Shimp
Shimp Sign & Design Co.
Jacksonville Beach, Fl

Posts: 1266 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Curtis hammond
Member # 2170

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Weldon.. None better.
Several flavors but they all work perfect. I just did a wall logo with pvc and used weld on #16. Used scraps for the hanger,, It bonds so well you will destroy the entire panel before it comes apart.

Leaper of Tall buildings.. If you find my posts divisive or otherwise snarky please ignore them. If you do not know how then PM me about it and I will demonstrate.

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bruce ward
Member # 1289

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I use alot of PVC. after routing i sand mine with a jitterbig sander on top lever and a wire sheels for the routed lettering. not placing alot of pressure on the wheel it will cut the pvc.

i prime the whole panel or letters with epoxy primer and come back with latex. i also shoot a light coat of primer on the back and install with silicone and i have not had a problem yet. PVC is awesome to owrk with it routes beautifully and looks great inside or out

You ever notice how easily accessible people are when they are requiring your services but once they get invoice you can't reach them anymore



Posts: 2033 | From: Montgomery, AL, usa | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Neil D. Butler

Member # 661

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Bulldog Grip! Along with double sided mounting tape, I'm not too sure of the type but I believe it's pl premium. The gold color one.

"Keep Positive"

Neil Butler
Paradise, NF

Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Gene Golden

Member # 3934

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I use a tool called a "Microplane".
I stole it from my wife's kitchen.
It's used as a grater for cheese, etc.
It works unbelievably well.
I also use those "Surform Shaver" rasps with the very sharp teeth - curved, flat, and round.

At Lowe's or Home Depot, buy the vinyl fence cements to attach pieces. It is a white color.

I never use silicone for ANYTHING.
I alway use an ADHESIVE sealant. Lexel makes one and Red Devil does too. Both are Clear and paintable... and ADHESIVES - http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Improvement/Lexel.aspx

Depending on the wall, I would use mounting tape for the initial hold, or use studs for more permanent outdoor uses.

Paint with Krylon if spraying.
Use Ronan AquaCote directly onto the PVC if rolling or brushing.

Gene Golden
Gettysburg Signs
Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200

"Art is knowing when to stop."

Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Henry Barker

Member # 174

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Hi there Bill,

We use PVC outdoors we like 3/4" and use it for thicker letters mounted on aluminium sheets, there we screw it together from the back, had no problems outdoors with climate, we use pvc glue otherwise.

It routs really well as you say, here are a couple of pics using textures in Enroute.





its a cheaper alternative to hdu for some applications.

We make lots of signs like this with 3/4 19mm pvc mounted on 2mm aluminium.


[ November 10, 2008, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Henry Barker ]

Henry Barker #1924akaKaftan
SignCraft AB
A little bit of England in a corner of Stockholm www.signcraft.se www.facebook.com/signcraftsweden

Posts: 1552 | From: Stockholm, Sweden | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator

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