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Redwood when you're going to use water base finish? I'm taking the plunge since One Shot is not holding up on this sign. This is a refurb job on an old sandblasted redwood sign, so I'm just going to put the latex primer on the letters which we have sanded down to bare wood. The background is oil base. Switching color from light tan to black. Can water base paint be used on the blasted wood with old oil stain (in good shape)?
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I use Block Out White or Zinzer as a base coat.
Since this is an older sign, a water based primer will probably be fine but, it doesn't have the ability to capture tannans. I like water based primer on some stuff but not wood signs.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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Dave, I have a lot of signs coming in for refurbishing now that I did years ago, mostly with a Sikkens background. I scrub it with a stiff brush to clean the grooves, then use Jay Cooke. I'd think any WB primer would work just fine...... the surface is a bit rough anyway & the bit of weathering on it will give it lots of "tooth". Just make sure you scrub it well.
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 472 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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I like Rodgers answer for coating out the background, but I'm confused about priming the bare redwood. I've seen many posts about using latex on wood because it expands better than oil.
Joe, are you top coating with latex?
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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When a sign has to be painted out, I always use something other than redwood, like foam. If the background will be a natural wood look, then I would use Redwood, otherwise it seems like a waste. I would do like Roger describes. I always use latex first, more and more I am using latex as the top coat as well, or automotive paint, seems to hold up MUCH better!
-------------------- Mike Meyer Sign Painter 189 1st Ave n P.O. Box 3 Mazeppa, Mn 55956
We are not selling, we are staying here in Mazeppa....we cannot re-create what we have here....not in another lifetime! SO Here we are!!!!!!!
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Don't we all approach these jobs differently!
Since we make only dimensional signs from HDU, Cedar, and Redwood and Cypress, the process for coating out is usual for us. Over the years I've primed redwood with latex and gotten by with it if the background is dark. If there's going to be a white background, stains will eventually start showing through.
I'm with Rodger about a wash down. We use the power washer. It makes these old signs clean as a whistle. Then coat out with any capture type primer. NOT Latex primer. They are very poor at capturing tannans or colors such as red left behind. One of the excellent qualities of latex primers is it's ability to cover up pours of HDU. That's not necessary here. Also we aren't tyring to gap fill. What's needed is a primer to capture colors and stains provideing a good background for Latex or Enamel paint.
I would strongly recommend coating out a scrap of redwood with any latex primer, throw it outside, and see how long it takes for yellow stains to start showing through.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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I've used all latex for everything (except for under leaf) for years. No problems.....except... Waterbased primers & paints won't hide the tannin in some cedar & redwood if you're painting the background white. Then I use an oil-based primer with an acrylic latex topcoat. There's no problem with adhesion....WB paint sticks to anything that's not too smooth to grab. Even ExTira.......you just have to scratch it up good with 80 grit. A lot of acrylic latex paints have teflon in them which messes you up for using a paintmask. You don't get a nice edge from your quill either. Porter/Rhino & Para (Canada) work the best for me.
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 472 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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Using a large stiff bristle scrub brush and a bucket of soapy water give her a quick scrub down. That not only gets rid of the oily, phenol water repellent surface, it also give a beautiful, soft, smooth background.
I'm not so fond of using water base primers on a water resistant surface.`I've only had two disasters with Extira and it was with water base primers. Expensive mistakes. That cauased me to change our primer techniques. Zinzer, Kills, Blockout White.
Some Extira comes with more oil on the surface than others. They only need a little bath.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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