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I became chemically sensitive back in the early 90's and had to quit using oil based paints and some water based back then. It has limited the types of sign work I can do but I have discovered a lot of paints and materials I wouldn't have tried if I never had this condition. I assumed all oil based paint was bad for me. I have accidentally discovered that good quality artist's oils don't bother me. They are made with linseed oil and pigment. So, I would like to dome some pictorials on my sign work and wondered how they hold up outdoors. I'm sure I've seen lots of stuff in SignCraft but can't remember if it was cleared over or had some kind of UV protection added or what.
-------------------- Chuck Peterson Designs San Diego, CA Posts: 1050 | From: San Diego, CA USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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sorry to hear about your unfortunate reaction to oils. I have a similar problem with vinyl.
I used to use atrists' oils on undercoated backgrounds for pictorials. You have to clear coat, I use 2 part car laquer, which requires an air fed mask etc. I always wait a few days for the paints to dry as much as possible,I then gently dust on a few coats every half hour, come back the next day and you should be fine to clear coat as normal. Watch out for reds, they'll bleed into everything, so those dust coats are even more important.
1-Shot make some good clears, but the oils may be your problem here. Their UV clear is great on small panels rolled or quickly brushed on, but it seems strong enough to knock anyones socks off.
Finally waterbased varnishes, but I wouldn't use these over oil, I may well be wrong???
Have you considered a quality acrilic artist colour, Terry Colley, from Manchester in the UK used to do all his pub sign pictorials this way, that way you could use a good exterior waterbased clear.
-------------------- David Kynaston Tyn Celyn, Nant Uchaf Farm, Tower Hill, Garth, Llangollen, N. Wales, U.K. LL20 7YH 01978 821552/823421 kynastonh@aol.com Posts: 36 | From: North Wales, U.K. | Registered: Jan 2004
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I'm not sure about oils, but I know some that have used Liquitex acrylics(artist paint) on signs and automotive work without any problems. Other brands should work similarly. They were cleared over after being painted. Most any good clear should work over them.
-------------------- John Duckett Strike Creative Greenwood, South Carolina Posts: 277 | From: Greenwood, SC | Registered: Feb 2004
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Hey Chuck, If your going to paint again, use acrylics for pictorials. They last and stay color fast. No Clear. The clear is what goes south. They last much longer than oils, even clear coated oils. You can use the tube colors or liquid in jars. I've done a lot with latex house paints for the large areas, then paint the details with the rich colors from the tubes. You can even wash glazes on top with the mediums or water! This is the fun stuff.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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(((---- photo not coming likeness close enough
Hello Chuck, I would not use artists oils on signwork at all, they are usually high quality pigments bound in linseed oil. Linseed oil is a drying oil and although it might be touch dry in a few days in reality it takes months and in some cases years to dry out. Thats why on high class artwork paintings are varished with a temporary varnish which allows the paint below to dry then after a year or so the painting gets it's finishing varnish. The different pigments also have different drying rates too. So for all signwork I would go the water based way given your reaction to one shot. I think clear coating is dependent on where you live ,here in the UK it's a damp climate I know a lot of places in the US the sun and uv are more of a problem Cheers Terry
-------------------- Terry Colley The VintageSign Co 42 barrack hill Romiley Stockport Cheshire, England sk6 3az tel 0161 494 5089 terry@bullandbrush.fsnet.co.uk Posts: 210 | From: England | Registered: Dec 1999
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