posted
There was a post the other day about channel letters. I wanted to show how easy these are to do. Sometimes people are intimidated by things they have never tried. The backs are cut on our CNC router from Dibond. The returns are hand notched and bent with a small metal brake. The returns are then pop riveted to the Dibond backs. Silicon is then used to seal the returns. A 1/4" drain hole is drilled in the bottom of the letter.
We use US LED's for lighting. A small 9 or 12 volt transformer is used. Connect the wires and stick the LED modules to the inside of the letter with the supplied VHB tape.
The faces are cut from colored acylic at a 1/4" outline, and a trimcap it glued to the perimeter of the face. The face is then screwed to the channel through the trimcap.
The returns on this letter were formed in about 30 minutes.
If you don't have access to a CNC, I know many shops cut them with a jig saw.
-------------------- Jerry VanHorn, Pres. Pure Sports Designs, LLC Pro Sign Design / United Wholesale Signs www.prosigndesign.comwww.unitedwholesalesigns.com West Liberty, OH 937-465-0595 866-942-3990 Since 1990 Posts: 925 | From: West :Liberty, OH | Registered: May 2004
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posted
I received some emails asking for details. Here are some more photos.
-------------------- Jerry VanHorn, Pres. Pure Sports Designs, LLC Pro Sign Design / United Wholesale Signs www.prosigndesign.comwww.unitedwholesalesigns.com West Liberty, OH 937-465-0595 866-942-3990 Since 1990 Posts: 925 | From: West :Liberty, OH | Registered: May 2004
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posted
There are several tricks to building channel letters.
First off measurments need to be very close, or your bend won't match the notch in the back, and then your letter won't be quite as sturdy. One thing that I did in the past is use something flexable to go around the radius of each letter and then transpose it to the returns (sides). The best thing that I ever found is the straps that are used in packing. It's about 1/2" wide, and black. It is flexable, but won't crease when you bend it. You can mark it with a pencil, and then wipe the marks off as you need to.
When you make the faces, they need to be slightly larger (about 1/8" min.) That way you don't have to fight the faces on when installed.
The parts that I hated the most was making the faces. You have to notch out the jewelite, but make sure the glue doesn't bleed out into the face.
Also, is your shop UL? Here channel letters won't go up unless they are made by a UL certified shop, and that is major ordeal to get and keep.
-------------------- Mark Kottwitz Kottwitz Graphics Ridgely, MD www.SeeMySignWork.com -------------------------- Imagination is more important than knowledge. -- Albert Einstein Posts: 746 | From: Ridgely, MD | Registered: Oct 2000
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