posted
Well I want to start to do a little more gold work and I would also like to be able to use the screen printing methods that I see on the site.
so here is my question/s:
What do I need to get started, I see a few starter kits from Blick, but not sure what would be best. I have a logo that I would like to do in glass, paint and gold... so I want to make sure that I start with the right product.
Also, any suggestions on lesson, reading, or such.
Tom Davis looking to get busy... :-)
-------------------- Tom Davis Hilltop Graphics 41665 Fenwick Street Leonardtown, MD 20650 Posts: 39 | From: MD | Registered: Nov 2005
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posted
No, silk screening experience.. But, B/W photgraphy (developed and printing my own), gold leaf, sand carving,color separation work for print work, vinyl and graphics work. does that help
-------------------- Tom Davis Hilltop Graphics 41665 Fenwick Street Leonardtown, MD 20650 Posts: 39 | From: MD | Registered: Nov 2005
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I think the Butlers are sched. to demo screening for glass work at the Zoo...
-------------------- Catharine C. Kennedy CCK Graphics 1511 Route 28 Chatham Center, NY 12184 cck1620@taconic.net "Look at me, Look at me, Look at me now! I't's fun to have fun, But you have to know how!" Posts: 2173 | From: downtown Chatham Center, NY | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
I have the Gold leaf techniques book.. I live by that one with the glass carving. The other book I will look for that one. I noticed that there are a bunch of choices for screens, with or without frames, different emulsions, etc. I want to figure out what I need to order so that I can start to play. The screen must be better than doing the painting by hand. :-) I bet that i could even make repeat orders then fairly quickly :-)
-------------------- Tom Davis Hilltop Graphics 41665 Fenwick Street Leonardtown, MD 20650 Posts: 39 | From: MD | Registered: Nov 2005
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Well, that's the reason for the How To Screen Print book. It will explain more about the frame options and emulsion.
Just getting started, I'd recommend a 23x31 frame with a 230 mesh count to start off with.
For the emulsion, I recommend Ulano ProClaim. Its a dual-cure system. It doesn't expose as quickly as others, but it will hold more detail and help to avoid overexposure.
For an exposure unit, many folk use a florescent system, but I prefer a metal-halide one. You can use rubylith for your filmpositive material which you an either cut by hand or run through your plotter. For more detail work, I recommend any of the inkjet systems available at USScreen.Com. They are reasonably inexpensive and will allow you to do more detailed and gradient work.
For a squeegee, I recommend starting off with a 70 durometer.
The source for most printing problems is that the screen isn't tight enough or improper off-contact.
posted
That is some great information, thanks a bunch. I will get started with a little homework. Does the letterhead shop have the screen print stuff?
-------------------- Tom Davis Hilltop Graphics 41665 Fenwick Street Leonardtown, MD 20650 Posts: 39 | From: MD | Registered: Nov 2005
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...and not to dampen your enthusiasm, but try and speak to a screenprinter near you & offer to help for a few days...that'll cut the hurdle down a tad- after you've bought and read that Scott Fresner book that Glen mentions, a few times!
It's a gigantic industry with a stack of waay different specifications, materials, uses, expertise and such, from the enamel & vinyl sign industry.
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7027 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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