posted
Hi, over here at least, we have one ink for printing on vinyl, & it's pretty tenacious stuff. We have a different ink for corrogloss printing (or corflute as we call it). Both are what I call lacquer-based. Normally I keep both on hand. One company I considered dealing with makes the one ink, then sells two different additives, depending on which you're printing on.
An order just came in for a very small run of corflute signs (3'x2') in a colour I have in vinyl ink, but nor in corrogloss ink. I don't really want to have to buy a tub of ink just for this job.
My question is- how fatal would it be to use vinyl ink on corflute? The signs are for a fete, and only have to last a fortnight in the weather.
(I suppose i could go & test a bit now, but I thought I'd post here first, and the replies may help others)
TIA!
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"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
I've got some of that too- or a kind of: Sericol's Ultralac, in the right shade, which is lacquer-based & OK to print onto enamel & 'some' plastics. Thanks, Glenn.
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"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
coraplast is a very trick animal and have run in to the inks scratching off useing any enamel ink that you might use or mix together. even the Vinyl inks scratch off. see what has to happen is the ink has to bond to the plastic not sit on top of. I use only Nazdar inks and use only 7900 coragloss ink with coraplast.
The other inks that i use on vinyl, PVC coted paper stock as well as tyveck, and powdercoated alluminum, is the 9700 all purpose ink. You can also use this ink with a Catalyst to printing on coraplast, but when you add the catalyst you have a pot life of 6-12 hours so beware not to mix it in the can.
chris
-------------------- "We have been making house calls since 1992"
Chris Lovelady Vital Signs
NOW WITH 2 LOCATIONS! Tallahassee, Florida Thomasville, Ga.
posted
I've just tried, and unfortunately, the incorrect stuff does chip or scratch off too easily.
Queer, that.
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"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
For the quick test I used Sericol's Ultralac. It scratched off surprisingly easily, but looked great before that!
It's made for "wood, paper, board, masonite, some plastics, perspex (acrylic), cured enamel, anodised & raw aluminium, stainless steel......" but NOT vinyl nor corro.
I'll retry it tomorrow with penetrol mixed in a tad.
I didn't try some vinyl ink I have. That'll be for tomorrow too.
edit to add- Thanks Chris. I believe you! but I'm just trying to avoid buying a new tub of ink, plus freight, plus a drive to get it from the nearest drop off place, all for a tiny run. I suppose I could convince them to change colours & I'd be fine!
[ August 28, 2005, 06:42 AM: Message edited by: Ian Stewart-Koster ]
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"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
Ian, we print a lot of corro (as we call it) several years back we started a run and accidently used a UV vinyl ink. Caught the problem shortly but I posted one out in front of our shop facing west and it held up extremley well for months. There is one in the neighbors yard that still looks good (this was a post 9/11 job) I don't know for sure if conventional ink would give the same result but vinyl inks do have a lot of grip even on substrates not recommended for.
-------------------- Robert M. Kistler South Bend Screen Process, Inc. 2018 S. Franklin St. South Bend IN 46613 Posts: 131 | From: South Bend Indiana | Registered: Jul 2003
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