posted
Am sure someone can help me here- asked a question earlier about airbrushing on vinyl...after reading all the replies, I think I'm going to try the SEM automotive type paint for plastic. (mainly because a local store here sells it-also like the fact that it's one step) Looked for Krylon Fusion but only found that in spray cans, then wrote the company to find out that's all they produce it in for now, but they are working on a brushable type- which I would need to get a more precise spray with my airbrush)
Anyway, need to know if the SEM will stick to "Avery A8 Cast High Performance Series" (which I already have some in stock) or any other vinyl that is not rated as "Enamel Receptive"? The only "Vinyl Receptive" film I'm finding is Calendared and does not have the durability or colors I'm looking for. I hate to ask such dumb questions, but my supplier doesn't know the answers. Thanks for any info!
Posts: 51 | From: Spout Spring, VA. | Registered: Feb 2005
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Sheila, just out of curiosity, every time I use enamel coat on coroplast, the area that doesn't get paint on it seems to attract airborne grime, that or it discolors to a gray yuck sort of color.
I'm wondering if I sprayed a piece of white vinyl with this adhesion promoter, then blended some yellow across the bottom, would the white (unpainted) part stay white?
Any previous experience? I'm sure that if I painted the whole thing white, over the promoter, that would take care of the situation, but I'm trying to save a step.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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Coroplast will attract any overspray from up to a 5 mile radius.
Out of curiousity, why do some people prefer the more complicated steps of using automotive paints on vinyl anyway? I could see doing it if you wanted to keep your inventory low or use what you had if you don't do it much but vinyl inks are cheap, quick and effective.
-------------------- Jim Upchurch Artworks Olympia WA Posts: 797 | From: Olympia, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Jim, Where do you get these inks? Can you give me a product name, series, etc. so I make sure I get the right thing? I'm going to have to go with the SEM this time, but I want to experiment with the inks, too.
Posts: 51 | From: Spout Spring, VA. | Registered: Feb 2005
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Beth, most suppliers handling screenprinting inks should stock them, I would imagine some local supplier would have them. I do alot of screenprinting myself but only stock basic colors of the vinyl inks, they mix together quite well. They stick like nothing else to vinyl and you have the benefit of not having to lay down any base color. Drying time is *quick* too, you can spray and install within 15 minutes, maybe even sooner.
-------------------- Jim Upchurch Artworks Olympia WA Posts: 797 | From: Olympia, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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If you want "one step" don't forget about the spraycan paints in auto parts stores, they bond very well to vinyl.
Spray the can into smaller cups you can then pour into an airbrush cup or jar like Shiela mentioned.
Vinyl inks: My preference is Nazdar's GV series. Any screenprinting supplier will have it but so does Dick Blick art supplies if you don't have local sources. http://www.dickblick.com
You can also call Nazdar and they will send you a sample, although in a random color, but still good for experimenting. They'll also send you thinners or reducers to go with the ink if you ask for them or you can just use lacquer thinner to thin the ink for spraying.
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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Ditto's what Jim said: "Coroplast will attract any overspray from up to a 5 mile radius."
LOL
James all I can say is basically if I'm gonna be spraying anything on coro, I mask off any area I do not want over-spray to even migrate to. (with newspaper, whatever's on hand.)
I so seldom do any spraying on coro but have airbrushed a few sky lines and clouds etc on pictorials on 'future home of' signs.
I would'nt even attempt a full-face fade on coro. Would upsell to aluminum or bow-out of the job. If you needed to do it though, i would be apt to spray the fade on a wide sheet of vinyl that matched the coro and lay it on there.
Once some of my auto spray migrated over to a coro 4x8 on the other side of the shop . . .I forgot it was uncovered . . .had to use a mixture of laquer thinner and acetone with more than a tad of elbow grease to remove the offending over-spray shadows. (there's a topic I posted about that somewhere)
Coro (and plastic banners) even pull the paint off the brush as well, and also when removing tape.
What fun to have an unexpected airbrushed streak of paint . . .
If you have some freind there who does'nt know that sign painters fight static occasionally, you can explain to them that your skills with the brush are SO powerful that it's just dang hard to control sometimes . . .
OR, you can do what I do (when I remember to do it) on plastic surfaces prior to lettering them, spray and clean well with windex followed by VERY LIGHT swipes with dryer sheets.
*GASP*
I know...I know. DRYER SHEETS??? I feel your animosity.
posted
Actually I was making a comparison of painting on coro to the question I was posing. I'll try this again:
I've made a lot of budget signs for the local HS baseball team, to help out. Often times, I would use paint instead of vinyl. I coat out the coro first with enamel coat. I then brush on the lettering. No spray paint, no blends. But the background areas that aren't lettered end up changing color, as though the enamel coat attracted grime, or changed to a bad grayish color.
Soooooo, I'm wondering, if I cut out some 5 inch tall letters, from white vinyl, then I coated the entire surface of the letters with the adhesion promoter. Then I spray a bit of yellow across the bottom of the letters, but left the top of the letters as they were, ( adhesion promoter only), would this adhesion promoter get stuff sticking to it in time? See the name 'adhesion promoter' makes me wonder if it'll keep promoting the adhesion of whatever's around.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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Jim, The reason I use auto base colors is that I do so much custom paint & murals on bikes and what not that everything is right at reach and pre mixed in bottles (standard colors).So its easy to just pour some in the ol' airbrush, spray some kool effects on the vinyl and hit it with some one-shot clear and in 20 minutes or so It's taped and applied.Trucks I have done four years ago are still doing fine.(Knock on wood) The base paints are "Hot" enough to bite into the vinyl.The metalic silver I'm still having trouble with tho.
-------------------- Dale Flewelling Art Attack Signs & Design Newport, NH Posts: 114 | From: Newport, New Hampshire | Registered: Dec 2001
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I have the S-222 ad-promo sprayed on the general areas (without masking) on several semi's and at least 3 race boats, as well as baseball helmets, and many other plastic items, and have never seen any static occuring, or over-spray migrating to the ad-promo (like it does to coro)
ALSO, none of these things have a dirt residue forming, or peeling from exposure to the elements in cases where I have not clear coated the entire area where the lettering happened on the ad-promo.
I have never used ad-promo on coro because I make coro signs with the express purpose of not having them last. I could care less if the paint or vinyl peel off them because I have no coro signs that should be up for more than 1 year and that's a stretch, and as far as I'm concerned, coro has it's place, but I hate it only slightly less than magnets . . .but that's just me.
Were I going to invest extensive concern with paint and adhesion . . .then coroplast...D-board . . .plastic cardboard, if you will . . .would not the substrate I personally would invest that concern on.
-------------------- Signs Sweet Home Alabama
oneshot on chat
"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog" Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003
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