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I have a cedar sign to restore it has cracks running through it. What is the best filler to fill in the cracks.The will be painted not stained. Thank Jake
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Jake, Is the sign blasted? Are you going to have to carve the fill to match blasted grain? Is the sign cracking in the original glue joints and in need of relamination? Just a couple of questions so we can answer better. YOUR answers will direct the responses, otherwise we would have to guess.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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The letters are routed out and the background is smooth.The cracks are not at the joints they are more like weathered cracks following the grain of the wood and about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep.The sign itself is 2" thick.
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Yep, wood will do that. It would make life simpler for all involved if people would put some maintenance into these things before they got to that stage - what are you going to do...
Sounds like you're in luck that there's no loose joints or splitting. To minimize the surface checking you describe I would power sand first with 150 or so to get off anything loose, blow off and use a filler like bondo, just enough to fill the voids without any actual buildup on the surface. Prime 1 to 2 coats, resand and you should be good to go with your topcoats.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Yep, like Joe says... Bondo. In this case, the sign has already expanded and contracted, and weathered well. Since you said the cracks are NOT in the joints, I wouldn't worry about the sign falling apart. Don't bother to clamp the sign to close the cracks, it will just want to expand again and reveal the cracks. The Bondo may show up as a shinier surface when you paint, since it will be a more "solid" surface than the wood. Depending on the gaps, I sometimes use Automotive Glazing Putty for the smaller cracks, no mixing.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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What Gene, and Joe said. Do not try and fill with glue and clamp. The wood decided to split for a reason, and trying to glue them back shut will most likely come back to haunt you. Like others have said, leave the cracks open, and use bondo. Good luck, Bob
-------------------- "The 3-4 minute mark of "Freewill" by Rush.
Bob Kaschak Artisan Sign And Design Peru New York Posts: 1873 | From: Upstate NY | Registered: Jul 2002
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Is the sign warped at all? Is it single or double faced, and how is it mounted? Can you restore it in place or do you have to remove it? Solidly mounted wooden signs that get cracks in them also develop internal stresses that'll relieve themselves when you remove the sign. I've found cedar to be kinda brittle to begin with so don't often use it for signs.
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