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Just finished my first two banners, pretty simple projects to experiment with a new process. One was 2'x6' "Thrift Sale Today" with some geometric dodads to add color and the other was 2'x8' "Winterdaze Downtown Parade Thursday 6:30 P.M." which had 6 colors of One Shot on it. The Main Street association liked that one!
And I have questions.
I used "Quickblanks" from Creative Banner, these lightweight banners are not enamel receptive. I umpacked the banners from their little boxes, attempted to unroll them, and taped them to some sheets of corrugated. I brushed on two light coats of Ronan Vinyl-Cote. And I got some puddles where the Vinyl-Cote collected.
After the blanks had dried I moved them to my easel to work on them, securing them with screws and washers at each grommet. The puddles of Vinyl-Cote were less noticeable, but dried amber. Then got out the overhead projector and Stabillo.
Now for the questions:
Buy enamel receptive banner blanks or coat your own?
Where to buy enamel receptive blanks in more than one weight. Hopefully somewhere who will sell in small quantity on a credit card order.
If you coat your own, how? Brush, Roller, or Spray.
How do you hold onto the banner while coating: table, easel, or ????
If only one side of the banner is coated, what happens when the banner is rolled up for storage? As I understand it the purpose of the Vinyl Cote is to contain the plasticizer in the banner, and keep it from migrating into the paint?
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spray the mid coat..it doesnt need to be heavy stretch banners over easels with bungee cords clamp em make em flat the time you spend to make em flat will make ya happy when ya brush on the graphics buy enamel receptive if you can be careful when you roll em for delivery the oneshot will react to the untreated back and it makes a mess use a liner or spray a thin coat on the back we didnt have this problem back in the days of tara cloth...it was a nice strong material suitable for lettering also add a little hardener to one shot...dry time on new banner material is slow
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Hi Paul. I get enamel receptive banners in a few weights and many nice colors from US Banner Corp That's what I used for the International banner this year.
Polly-Banners , believe it or not (Davey) are also enamel receptive. They are VERY thin though. I get both brands through my local N. Glantz & Son.
Someone taught me this trick: Dust the banner LIGHTLY with cornstarch (after a good two-day or more drying) then roll to ship. The cornstarch prevents sticking and wipes off.
I never coat out banners, just use ER blanks. I lay them flat, with the edges taped down, on a 4x8 table made of plywood and two sawhorses to paint. I figure that gravity prevents dripping! Love....Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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I've never tried useing hardener on a banner. Seems more like a flexible additive would be the direction I'd pursue, like on tire covers.
I usually buy pre coated banners, but find the ones we do ourselves are more dependable.
We usually lay the banner flat on a table and roll the Ti-Cote, but sometimes secure it to the lettering bench with some duct tape or hold it with magnets.
I've learned not to use hot thinners, that they attack the acrylic coating and can cause slow drying ....just the opposite of what was intended.
We get most of our banners from Best Buy, but there is probably a manufacturer nearer to you.
Banners are a nice surface to letter, have fun.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6722 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I grew up in the central San Joaquin Valley, California. My shop was just outside Fresno in the small town of Sanger. Not more than 5 miles from the shop, was this Mom & Pop banner company; The Banner Factory.
Usually, I would call up and order one, hop in my truck and by the time I got there, it woud be waiting for me at the counter.
This is what I saw at their factory.
For those of you who say, `roll it, `spray it or `brush it you might want to consider this.
Grab a small soft shop rag and dunk it into the *tie coat. Smear a very thin layer of tie coat to the banner.
Thats it.
No second coat. No pulling out roller cover, handel and paint trays. No fiddeling with the compressor, and gun. Not even a brush.
It only needs to create a barrior between the Banner and the paint. To top it off, I only use about 1.5oz. of tie coat on a 3X8 banner. Since the tie coat is so thin, it dries in about two minutes, and ready to paint in 5 minutes.
From an unconventional, conventionalist...
I use an old sock. I ring out the excess back in the can.
-Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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Damn! I can't believe it... I just gave you "the tip of the century." -Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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One thing you might want to add to what Richard said, put on some rubber or latex gloves, save you all that time peeling the dried enamel coat off your fingers and hands. If it is a bigger banner and you want to finish faster, roll with a thin foam roller cover.
-------------------- aka:Cisco the "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist" http://www.franciscovargas.com Fresno, CA 93703 559 252-0935 "to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98 Posts: 3576 | From: Fresno, Ca, the great USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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The real "Tip of the Century"....wear that sock after coating.....bye bye Athlete's Foot!
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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