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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » paint & roll idea

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Author Topic: paint & roll idea
James Donahue
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Member # 3624

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I don't know if this would work, but thought I'd post it while I was thinking of it.

There are pros and cons for every type of material, but one advantage of using transfer paper as a paint mask is that it takes longer for the paint in the paper (around the edges of letters, graphics) to dry, thus you have longer you can wait in between painting time and removal time.

What I thought of was drawing/pouncing the artwork, cutting it out, (but not peeling it) then going around the edges of the letters, or all over the paper mask, with a light coating of something that was r-e-a-l slow drying, like maybe RAW linseed oil, then peeling out and painting. Often times it would be nice to be able to leave a project longer, like over night. I often roll a base color on some letters, but have to wait before spraying on a blend, or it mixes into, and "sinks" into the base coat.

I know, this is like splitting hairs, but the more tricks we have up our sleeve,the better we are.

Also, this is probably not at all new, but I just tried clear transfer tape as a mask, for the first time, on an airbrush project. Definately thicker and tougher, but I also just came to a better understanding of sharpening the tip of an X-acto blade, so it overcame the new difficulty.

The sharpening tip is that since a very small and sharp edge is so thin, it could easily be turned into a burr with the usual sharpening pressure. So I tried sharpening with very light, careful pressure. It works!

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James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
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Member # 1106

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James ...you can leave paper mask (tuffbak, transfer paper) on over nite and remove the mask in the morning without adding linseed to it (I think you'd end up with a pretty spotty messy job with the oil).

On Oil based enamels the paint will stay tacky (semi cured) for a couple of days)
I don't much like clear or vinyl masks myself but everyone has their "thing"...in most cases however I remove my paper mask within a 3 hour period. Best part about a paper mask (overnite)is any residue that(might have) leaked under the mask will generally still be moist "uncured" and easily removed the next morning with a simple wipe of a thinner laden rag..

Here's a real neat trick you might want to try when cutting a paper mask...instead of using a pounce pattern (and havving charcoal dust in your paint)plot your pattern with a plotting pen then lay your pattern where it is to be used and rub over the pattern with mineral spirits...the spirits will drive the ink thru the paper and "transfer" to the paper mask giving you an absolutely perfect line to cut to.

The spirits will evaporate away in a matter of minutes leaving you a dry surface to work on and it has no effect on the paper mask.This also works espeacially well on "Buttercut" mask for sandblasting. (sometimes I use lacquer thinner for this application( careful not too much!

P.S. too much thinner will flare the lines so experiment a little ...just use enough to make the "transfer".

[ November 03, 2004, 08:46 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]

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"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net

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Sara Bogue
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Hi James,
You might want to try our StencilRite paint mask because it's just like transfer tape only thicker. It has good paint hold out and removes cleanly. It also comes on a liner if you want to run it through a plotter (693F), or self-wound if you're going to apply it and then cut it(6931).

You're welcome to request a sample through our website, www.abitape.com.

Good luck,
Sara

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Sara Bogue
105 Whittendale Drive
Moorestown, NJ 08055

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Stephen Faulkner
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Monte!... damn thats a good hint with the thinner over a drawn line... thank you!

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"No excuses!.... No regrets!..."

GEET
www.goldrushsigns.com
known associate... pinstripermafia.com

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fayette pivoda
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I'm going to try Monte's trick too, in the past I have just spray glued my patterns to the masking and cut right through both. A quicky wipe with a mineral spirited rag would then release the pattern paper.

Thanks

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fayette pivoda
signizmz
Denver Colorado

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Sheila Ferrell
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Sara,
I'd like to try your paint mask too.

James, I have virtually no trouble with no.11 blades when hand-cutting regular paper-mask, vinyl or whatever. $10 for 100 - trash when dull.

On the paper mask (transferite, application tape, whatever you call it)
I always go around the edges of the cut with a squeegee making sure the edges are good'n tight and take the mask up usually before the paint dries because somehow, that's the fun part, LOL


I've use'd Gregory paint masks on letters I've ordered and I like it pretty good too . . . . . but it is still WAY cheaper for me to hand-cut most mask jobs with a roll of the paper 'til I get that plotter goin' . . .


James, I have also used the clear or blue plastic potection that comes on aluminum as a paint mask . . .cut it before removing from the sign, spray and remove . . .the main draw-back is that unless you have SUPER fast drying paint, the paint tends to begin to curl the edges of the cut within 3 minutes of spraying and you get the 'flashing' or 'bleeding', so you either have to remove it immediately or break-out the Q-tips to clean up. . .dusting several coats before the last finish coat helps a lot too. . .

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Signs
Sweet Home Alabama


oneshot on chat


"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog"

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James Donahue
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Thanks for the ideas!

Sara, I will try that sample.

I was thinking of applying the "stuff" with maybe a rag wrapped around my finger tip, going around the edges of the letters, so the amount would be controlled, and not interfere with the paint.

I used the clear for a secondary masking (backmasking?) over artwork that I didn't want overspray on. That way I could see clearly where to cut.

I resharpen knives not for frugality, (though I AM one cheap cheap dude, as in skinflint) but rather to maintain and improve my skill level. I am often benefited from my involvement with pre/non electric methods. That way of life demands one be skilled at sharpening all manner of tools.

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James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ian Stewart-Koster
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James, I have a little diamond honing bar and often resharpen blades- why not get more use from them, as otherwise mostly only the tip gets bluntened. Another way is to use a fine needlenosed pliers set and snap off the tip exposing a new bit of sharper blade. This isn't as good, but works too.

[explanation- my mother does a fair bit of paper tole work, and gives me 30 - 50 barely used blades at a time, so I just touch up the tip & they're fine]

At times if I've run out of paintmask, I've taken some Politape ( a brand of plasticy app tape with a texture not unlike 3Ms dotty new stuff) and stuck it to some old paper backing and plotted it & then used paper app tape to lift that after weeding it. It sounds dicey but has been no problem at all for emergencies. Make sure the edges are well pressed down.

I would NOT try linseed oil etc on papermask unless you'd like it to haunt you! It'll have either no effect, or too much effect & you'll regret the second version!

I've found you can usually see through papermask (app tape) and hand cut along a pencil line drawn on your original substrate if it's white, without needing to redraw/trace it first.


Have you used your new plotter much at all?

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"Stewey" on chat

"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull

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Dave Parr
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Sara,
I ment to thank you for sending the sample a while back. It is a clear masking, product # 1310. I really like the product and I will use more of it. I've used it as a transfer masking and paint mask.

Thank You!

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Dave Parr
Sign Painter
USA

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Sara Bogue
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You're welcome, Dave. The 1310 has been popular for both app tape and paint mask, and it won't react to the paint and curl like Sheila mentioned above. (We make a lot of that protective blue film that is laminated to aluminum.) It really pays to be able to see what you're doing!

Sara

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Sara Bogue
105 Whittendale Drive
Moorestown, NJ 08055

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Sheila Ferrell
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Sara! Uh-oh! Now I know where to get that stuff!! LOL jes' kiddin' . . .

Just wanted to share a cute application for that blue protective sheeting. . . .

One of our kindergarten Sunday school teachers had a semester theme about the ocean . . .(How many here always get called upon for helping create stages/decorations?? [Roll Eyes] )

I managed to save a lot of that shiney lite-blue plastic which we hung down the walls in an entire corner, and from the ceiling in a sort'a crumpled/sagging style, . . .assorted colourful fish and seaweeds on the wall behind the plastic gave a very 3-D effect . . .a cardboard boat bottom above the watery ceiling, complete with bobber, 'fish-hook' with worm & lead on white string-fishing line, and other fishees hanging down, completed the ocean!! It seemed almost real!!

--------------------
Signs
Sweet Home Alabama


oneshot on chat


"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog"

Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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