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Hello Letterheads, I am making two small signs that will be mounted on the two columns shown here but I would appreciate your help on how I can mount them?
Thanks, Steve
[ October 23, 2004, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: Steve Racz ]
-------------------- Steve Racz Racz's Handcarved Signs Posts: 1078 | From: New Jersey | Registered: Jan 2004
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I would use a lead shield in the mortar joint. Avoid drilling in the rock itself, because if for some reason the signs have to come down someday, the mortar can be repaired, not the rocks... Depending on how tight the joints are, TAPCON screws or expantion shields could also be used.
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Rene's method would be my first choice also, but it looks like there may not be good mortar joints exactly where you want to mount your sign. You could use a piece of .080 aluminum, smaller than your sign, and countersink some screws in spots where you can hit the joints. Epoxy or silicone them into the mortar, and set the backer plumb and level. Then you can DF tape and/or silcone your sign to nice flat surface.
-------------------- Tom & Sharon Giampia Creative Image Design Port Chester, NY Posts: 285 | From: Port Chester | Registered: Mar 2001
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Steve, Treat the signs as you would Gemini letters. Place 3" studs in the back and drill the holes, insert glue, apply to wall. This way there are no holes in the face of the signs. All the weight will be vertical weight onto the studs, so the signs won't fall off. If you are near enough to the columns to make another survey, you may want to prepare a paper "pattern" of the column joints where you intend to install the signs. Since they are irregular, they will both be different. Make an oversized pattern with the sign shape in the middle. Place the pattern on the wall, and with your finger, feel where the joints are. Mark the pattern where the four studs should be placed with a Phillips screwdriver. "X" marks the spots for studs on your signs. You may even want to make some sort of "registration marks" on the paper and stones with either tape or stabilo so you can easily line them up later. You could also do all of this stud-mounting and pattern making on-site and save a trip!
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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There are several good installation methods mentioned here so I will address the possible repair on the stone at a later date. To repair, drill an additional hole in the stone and collect the dust from the drill. Squirt some silicone sealant into the holes and smooth it, then blow some of your collected rock dust onto the silicone. Your holes will go away.
Also, if you have to remove silicone from a rock wall, cut off what you can with a razor blade and then beat the remnants with a hammer. It will powder the rock behind the sealant where it can then be easily removed. The areas where the silicone was can hardly be seen. This can also work on brick if you are careful not to beat the bricks into oblivion.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5107 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I get the plaques with the stud mounts tapped into the back so nothing shows from the front. I have a few extra studs that I cut short and can put a dab of paint on the tips of. Then with level in hand on the pleque, I push the plaque to the stone leaving dots where the holes need to be.I drill the holes larger than the studs and this gives some flexibility for adjustment. For something that might someday be removed I'd mix some bedding compound and put it on the baco of the sign and on the stone and squirt some 30 year silicone adhesive into the holes and press the sign in place Duct tape will usually hold it fine while the glue and mortar set up. The bedding compound can be cleaned before it hardens and you are not left with an uneven wobbly base behind the plaque.
On things more permanant, I've ground away the rock to make a flat base that is recessed for a more flush mount to the stone. Thisis a messy and time consuming job.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6817 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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LOL Steve . . . I had it in my head that you were going to be placing them on TOP of the posts like pediments . . . duh.
But anyway you have recieved ample tips here so, I'm not going to mention that I would just use those metal or plastic shanks in the rock and acorn nuts on the front of the signs. . . .and that, I guess you know you need a "hammer" drill . . .
Let me complement you on the signs I've seen of yours. You're a tallented guy.
I have a thought on attaching signs to brick, rock, and masonry. For years I have gone to extreme limits to have hidden fixtures for installation but a few months ago, I began drilling through the sign face into the substrate, with Top Con's. I have used been using the Phillips heads. Then applying a decorative cap, usually square with beveled top, over the screw head.
I have been incorporating this fixture style in the original design Sometimes using M. Jacksons borders corners with the fixture cap into that.
Probably won't work here but might work in the future.
I'm just so tired of working aginst this type of installation. We have one or two a week and this is sure a time saver.
Hope this made sence. I'll send you a photo if you like.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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