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How would you tackle this project? The whale: This piece, measures approx 9"x28". Hand gouged, looks to have several coasts of varnish, (front & Back) carved letters, what used to be gold leaf and a black pinline.
While I was out, a customer brought this in to be sandblasted, saw my 'sign' (I share space with the blaster) and decided to leave it, for me to have a looksee. Obviously, someone in their family is an 'artist' and they had planned a DIY. (Do It Yourself)
It would be one thing, if I was making this from scratch, but to refurbish? It's not the greatest workmanship to begin with and to me, looks like a nightmare and a time consuming project.
What would you do? How would you go about removing the varnish? Would it be okay to apply gold leaf over the re-varnish?
Cher.
-------------------- Co-Host: SANDCASTLE Panel Jam 'a Dixie Letterhead Reunion' Fort Myers, Florida
Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on mIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida 239-574-4713 VSignsNgraphics@aol.com Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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Take some paint stripper to it and strip everything off and see how it looks from there. When stripping, you want to get put the stripper on, let it sit, and then scrub off with a nail brush and toothbrush. If the wood is in good shape, just polyurethane. If the wood is discoloring, rotting, etc., you may have to get one of those rotary sanding wheels that goes on a drill and re-sand it. Just make sure you get one with a pretty fine grit. You'll probably lose some or all of the gouge marks.
ps. Except for where it looks like some of the varnish came off, I love it because its got that beautiful patina that you can only get with age.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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The only area where the varnish is completely gone (in places) is along the top of the piece. (sun damage) What you're saying about the 'patina' may actually compliment the 'look' of an actual whale, under water.
Cher.
-------------------- Co-Host: SANDCASTLE Panel Jam 'a Dixie Letterhead Reunion' Fort Myers, Florida
Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on mIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida 239-574-4713 VSignsNgraphics@aol.com Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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Cheryl, You may be able to lightly sand the top part to smooth it out and then polyeurthane again. My concern is that that new poly won't have the patina and will stick out like a sore thumb.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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Bob, I didn't know that. I always used it on furniture that I was making or re-doing...and of course everything was for indoors.
I do have a question. I am doing a sandblasted cedar and part of it is going to be the natural wood and I don't know what to use to seal it. Any suggestions?
[ September 29, 2004, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: Laura Butler ]
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I made an MDO sign with enamel paint and vinyl lettering years ago. The customer thought he would extend the life of the sign by brushing on a coat of polyurethane. Six months later the poly turned yellow and fell off in sheets and flakes leaving the original sign looking brand new and in the condition he received it.
If you're painting a cedar sign Laura, use any good primer and paint with either enamel or latex. Make sure you have at least two finish coats of either medium and expect to refinish in five years time.
-------------------- Bob Stephens Skywatch Signs Zephyrhills, FL
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