posted
I painted the sign background a satin green & put Gerber-Mask over the top about 15hrs later to carve through & then gild. Gold work is done, and the mask is coming off BUT where the mask sheets overlaped (sign is 4x6'-15" sheets of mask) there is a thin glossy line about 1/16" wide. My guess is that the paint was not hard/dry enough and it cured with the mask on it leaving a certain finish, while the overlap of the mask left a tiny (1/16") portion not touching much and giving it a different finish. So...here it comes...the magic question...how do I get rid of that line (insert mental dialogue-oh please let there be some liquid that will just affect that thin little line but nothing else and take that nasty blemish away so I can still deliver the sign today) Another sign shop said Solvent Alcohol might work. Anybody know???? ...I hope so.
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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posted
wow...you painted and masked after only 15 hrs??? you were lucky the paint didn't lift up with less than a day to let it cure. could you put some fine 600 grit paper at the end of a q tip and lightly sand? sorry i'm not much help...i'm fairly new to the painting mask and routing stuff myself...i'm so paranoid i let the paint cure for at least a week. there's gotta be someway to get rid of a glossy line.
-------------------- Karyn Bush Simply Not Ordinary, LLC Bartlett, NH 603-383-9955 www.snosigns.com info@snosigns.com Posts: 3516 | From: Bartlett, NH USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
Philip...I run into that a lot when applying graphics to recently painted boats and vehicles. The masking paper leaves an ugly dull looking finish on the paint. This is on catalized Awlgrip and Acrylic enamel finishes.
Fortunately the paint always flows out after a short while and the blotch dissappears.
If you have the time just wait and see if this will occur for you.
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
Joey- I don't think I explained well enough. I Painted, let it dry ONLY 15 hours, and then masked it off. The paint was a BenMorre Satin oil i think.
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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posted
Hiya Philip, Try placing the sign in the sun for a while and it should bake out. If not, I would try polishing it first before sanding. Sometimes, buffing with a soft cotton rag will work. My thought process is to try the least invasive options first and move up from there. I guess you don't have to be told to let the paint cure longer next time before applying the mask
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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I dunno if this will help...BUT At Mass Mayhem, Frank Manning had a new 1-Shot UV Satin clear....Over paint or Vynull, it looked great. Once again, tho, it might be hard to find this product. I hope everything works out OK! Love...Jill
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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Dave, I have seen the pre-mask do the same thing!! LOL and I thought it was just me or the high humidity here which is usually very high here, so you learn to take extra precautions.
I try to wait quite a while before putting anything to a good finish too.
BTW:For smaller signs, the dash board of your vehicle facing the sun makes a good baker . . .
Baking out in the hot sun for about 2 days is ideal, not only for a good tan, but to cure the paint before applying anything too, lol
When the hot sun is not an option . . . and/or you've waited a day or two to see if it's going to "level-out" and go away . . . the next best thing is to fine-sand the entire area, with special care for the offending spot and clear it.
or recoat it . . . .
Don'cha love the learning process?? I love it when I learn a fixer-trick and don't forget it the next time the same thing comes up . . . .
-------------------- Signs Sweet Home Alabama
oneshot on chat
"Look like a girl, act like a lady, think like a man, work like a dog" Posts: 5758 | From: "Sweet Home" Alabama | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Not quie sure if I've got the situation right here, it's a 4 foot by 6 foot board, painted, then masked , carved, and guilded, masked stripped and the paint surface has a 1/16 wide place (where sheets joined) where the appearance is a bit different (less glossy?)
Is it a problem???? Only if people see it. If it's hung 200 feet away on a wall, just the few that know about it, will see anything!
Nobody will put the sign under a microscope, like you are now, as you finish it
-------------------- Bob Sheers 24 Hour Services Columbia, MD USA 410-995-3655 bob@go-to-airport.com Posts: 140 | From: Columbia, MD, USA | Registered: Sep 1999
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I was thinking the same as dispatch, with the additional comment that you could call the client & offer to spend a few days (doing whatever you're willing to offer) getting the sign suitable for viewing under a microscope. You could also give them the option to see what is bothering you, because in your experience you are your own worst critic, & maybe thay want the sign today anyway, since it will look fine from the distance it was designed to be viewed from.
(I'd also be curious if a hair dryer would blend the finish at those seams?)
posted
To quote some great unknown letterhead. IOAFS
Get creative. Explain that you deliberately put that line in to scare away woodpeckers.
Or if in the future if they want to add sound to the sign that line is a super sensitive uni-band antenna that a transmitter can beplugged into.
Or a new law was passed that requires all sign surfaces have an anti-glare line barrier to prevent oncoming traffic from having glare related accidents.
Must be at least a 100 more valid reasons for intentionally putting that line in there.
[ May 07, 2004, 03:07 PM: Message edited by: Bob Stephens ]
-------------------- Bob Stephens Skywatch Signs Zephyrhills, FL
posted
Learning curves are sharp & sometimes painful.
I'll try the sun-shine route first and work my way up to...gulp...sand paper and possible refinishing.
Forget getting paid today I guess.
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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posted
If you show it to the customer, that is the first thing he will see every time he looks at the sign. I'd just let it cure and don't say anything.
-------------------- Rove Gratz Gratz Signs 342 Walden Station Drive Macon, GA 31216 rovegratz@aol.com Home Page: http://rove-342.tripod.com Posts: 861 | From: Macon, GA 31216 | Registered: Jan 2004
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I, too, have experienced the identical problem. If the paint isn't totally dry, the mask tends to dull it down. I solved it, ultimately, by not using masks.
If you are using gloss oil-based enamels, whether 1-Shot or house paint, the following easy method will probably even out your background.
Buy some 3M "Imperial Hand Glaze" from an auto parts store. It seems to contain a very mild abrasive - maybe plastic powder? Shake well before and during use. Wrap a piece of old soft cotton t-shirt around your index finger. Put 3 or 4 drops on the fingertip and apply to the sign in a small circular motion, with only a little pressure. Don't use much glaze - 3 or 4 drops will do about a 6" X 6" area, or more. Don't touch the gold or you'll abrade it off. When dry (it dries quickly), wipe and polish it off with t-shirt cloth - you can use 2 fingers for this. You may only have to do the areas in question. After you see the results, you may want to do the whole sign.
After a mild soapy cleaning, I use this method to remove the white chalkiness that appears on dark enamels after a few years of use. A 4' X 4' sign only takes about 30 minutes to do. It makes the sign look like new.
-------------------- Chris Owen Owen Signs 512 S. Main Nevada, MO Posts: 4 | From: Nevada, MO | Registered: Sep 2003
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Philip - try using a pencil eraser on the line. Start with a normal pink eraser, and if it doesn't work try the kind you use for pens. I have had luck with both when touching up signs and being left with shiny spots. You could also try a little Bon Ami soap - It may be that the mask removed some surface oils that the Bon Ami will remove.
Good Luck.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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posted
I know that this is a little late, and I hope that just setting the panel in the sun DID allow the paint to flow out for you.
BUT, I just had a thought. Immediately after removing the mask and seeing the narrow strip of shiny paint you could have cut a similar strip of mask and laid it down on the shiny part to let it mottle the surface just like the rest of the area. This would at least have made everything look the same.
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
It will most likely will flow out. Paints are designed to flash (dry) off in stages. The (tact) and (to the touch) stages flash fast. The tape ready stage is slower. As the first stages dry it is harder for following chemicals to flash. Final cure can take 30 days or more depending on conditions. I found if your pressed for time use auto paint chemicals to speed things up. You can make the paint so hot you almost can't paint fast enough. Any enamel reducer & hardener will work. Enamel is enamel and you can cut flash times by 60% or more. Good luck, Wes
-------------------- Wes Lewis Lewis Signs 206 17th Ave. North Onalaska, WI buzzwes2000@yahoo.com Posts: 8 | From: Onalaska, WI | Registered: Apr 2004
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HAHAHHAAHA Pat..Ya gotta remember Pat, we computer geeks are more "perfectionist" than you hand lettering types!!!!
Just yankin yer chain Pat!
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
Phillip, 1. Have you fixed it yet- how did it go? 2. Have you learnt a few lessons ?
feedback to responders & others is as valuable as the advice.
Best wishes
*edited to remove a stray apostrophe!
[ May 11, 2004, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: Ian Stewart-Koster ]
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
Its happened at least a few times with me.... even with automotive urethanes. The fix is to let it cure more then use some 1500 wet sandpaper and level the sheen. Then wait a bit more for the paint to cure more and use 3M clearcoat finishing polish. It will happen even after a week of cure, and especially noticable on darker colors.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
It's Monday Morning and the thin glossy stripes are still there.
Heres what I tried-
When I first took off the mask and beheld the little lines I did try to re-mask that area, but to no effect (of course, i didn't leave it on for 4 days like the original mask was)
The sun did not affect the line by "baking" it out or fading it. So, although I have not tried it yet, I am not very hopeful of the hairdryer suggestion, but will try it none the less.
I am considering waxing or buffing the surface and creating a more glossy finish than the current SATIN, but am simply thinking at this stage. I prefer a more matte finish than gloss.
Who out there uses masks like I do and...How long do you wait to let the paint cure before masking?
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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Hiya Philip, Man that's a bummer. Good luck on the other processes. I do use the same masking process that you describe. However, I would normally use a gloss or flat finish paint. Maybe that's part of the problem? Dry time was normally 24-48 hours. Aother trick was to not let the mask sit on the sign for an extended period of time. For flat signs the mask normally sat for 2 days or less. Carved signs may have the mask on there for a week or more, but it was never a problem. Also, we always used 1 Shot paints. I don't recall the brand of flattening paste that we mixed with the 1 Shot.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
For anyone who cares- I ended up with a two part solution of sorts. I ended up trying (out of frustration) some "orange goop" hand cleaner on the little glossy lines and was slightly pleased. I used just a little and very little pressure and it took some of the gloss down when cleaned off with water. I think i really just took a little paint of and it blends in better.
We'll go with that & hope it works. Who knows, maybe I'll be fixing it in 3 weeks???
-------------------- Phil Steffen, 29 Van Rensselaer St City of Saratoga Springs DPW Saratoga Springs NY 12866 Posts: 563 | From: beautiful Saratoga Springs NY | Registered: Aug 2001
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