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We've got two 1 1/2" x 4'x8' sandblasted sign faces that need to be sandwiched and installed between two posts. What's the best way to do this? (If you don't know the best way, then what is your way.)
posted
BTW, I vaguely remember a post about this kind of install awhile back. But, I don't remember when, who or what the post was titled. So, had no luck using the search.
What we want to do is to sandwich rods between the hdu panels, but are not certain how to do it safely. I'm thinking backing both panels with exterior plywood, routing a channel along the length of the plywood to accept the rods, then attach the two panels back to back. Any better ideas, or is that the way it's done?
We usually route out the back sides of each piece enough to glue up a sheet of dibond or alumalite that protrudes from each side. I do it almost as big as the sign. I guess you would need a 10' piece for a 4'x8'. We usually glue the pieces together with Titebond polyurethane glue. We did this with a hand router before the CNC.
We then rout a groove in the posts big enough to accept the alumalite and screw through the post into the alumalite.
Hope that makes sense. Call if you need more info.
-------------------- Amy Brown Life Skills 101 Private Address Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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SignCraft ran a article about such situations in its last pub. You could cut some 2"x2" and mount to post. Or cut angle iron and do the same. Most people might even screw in some long lag bolts thru the side of post into the hdu
MATT
-------------------- Signs Solutions, Inc. Matthew Rossi Midlothian, VA, 23113 signsol@earthlink.net Posts: 139 | From: Midlothian, Virginia | Registered: Nov 1998
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If you glue rods lengthwise through the sign, and then through the posts, then you will be forced to dig out the posts if there ever is a need to remove the sign itself.
Since 1 1/2" SignFoam is fairly rigid, I'd install the posts with a mounting panel or rails between, and then mount the faces to that.
-------------------- Steve Purcell Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking Cape Cod, MA
************************** Intelligent Design Is No Accident Posts: 900 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999
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Instead of gluing rods to the back, why not glue some hollow pipe. Glue the 2 signs together. Then drill holes in your posts and run a threaded rod through 1 post, then the sign and out the other post. Then put some nuts on both ends. This way you can remove the sign without having to remove the posts.
Diane Balch
-------------------- Balch Signs 1045 Raymond Rd Malta, NY 12020 518 885-9899 signs@balchsigns.com http://www.balchsigns.com Posts: 1695 | From: MaltaNY | Registered: Jan 2000
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Don, I think that I may have printed a copy of the post that you may be thinking about I will look in my files to see if I can find it tomorrow.
-------------------- Dennis Raap Raap Signs Posts: 839 | From: Coopersville, MI | Registered: Feb 2003
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Don, here is the method I used on a 5 x 8 sign. I had flanges welded onto the ends of some 3 inch by 3/16ths thick steel. The overall length was about 4 inches longer than the width of the sign. I routed out two channels on one sign back and epoxied the steel into each channel. I took great care to make sure they were parallel and each flange was perfectly centered. When that was set I epoxied the two signs together. It has withstood some very high winds. BUT, this was a 5x8 verticle sign. If I had to do this on a 4x8 horizontal, I would use thicker steel. We set the poles using 2x4 spacers to make sure the sign & brackets would slide inbetween the poles.
The alumalite between the two is another option I've never tried but heard works good. I personally don't like putting any wood product on HDU, especially MDO because of it's short life.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I did mine pretty much the way Dave describes. I routed two horizontal, parallel dados into the back of each face. Epoxied in two pieces of 1x2 rectangular steel tubing. Then laminate the other face on top of that with epoxy. Then piled 1300lbs of blasting sand bags on it and clamped the edges. So you're gluing foam to foam with two pieces of steel running horizontally through the center.
To attach it to brick columns(would also work for wood) I made 4 feet. Each foot consists of a 6'' long piece of solid steel about.75''x1.75'' welded to a piece of 1/4'' steel plate. The piece of steel telescopes into the steel tubing with a close fit but just loose enough to slide in and out. When you get to the job site you position the sign between the columns or posts, slide the feet out and bolt them on. Monte Jumper and Dave Sherby told me how to do it and it makes for a really stout sign.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Wayne, I can't take credit for the tube in a tube idea but I love it. I won't have to be so careful with locating the posts.
Edit By the way, if I remember right, the steel was about half the cost of a sheet of Alumalite, of coarse there's a little painting to do on the exposed steel.
[ March 01, 2004, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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