I've been priming sign panels with white oil base primer (Valspar brand). Tinting the primer slightly helps to see coverage when priming onto white MDO, and tinting the primer toward the topcoat color helps when painting light/bright colors like yellows.
But, anything can be overdone.
Is it ok to tint primer with 10-20% topcoat color? Or am I giving up something in performance? Is topcoat the right material to tint with, or should I be using something else? Thanks
posted
Is there a reason you are spending valuable time,energy,primer,finish paint on out of date wood MDO? When there are newer longer lasting substrates available? Just wondering!
From a old timer
-------------------- PKing is Pat King The Professor of SIGNOLOGY Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
As to your question, I think what your doing is O.K.
The problem with MDO paint failures, is that not enough coats of paint are used. We have seen over and over the lettering (hand painted Lettering) lasts longer than the background paint.
Thus, if the MDO had more finish coats of paint on the surface, like 3 or 4, It would hold up much longer with out doing the flake off thingy.
The cost of labor and paint, alone, and say you wrap your roller up to keep if from drying out, and don't use 4 $5.00 rollers, makes it more profitable to use other substrates, like Pat says.
We have bought MDO primed and finished coated from the sign suppliers only to have to fill the edges with putty, resand, and add 1 more primer coat on the edges and 2 more finish coats on top of the factory finish.
I'm not so impressed with MDO these days.
[ January 01, 2004, 02:20 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
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There are PVC veneered exterior woods available from NUDO or OMEGA. You still need to putty the edges, and as an option they provide trim caps, but you still need to putty the edges before the trim cap is attached, other wise water will get in under the cap and rot the wood, especilly on the bottom edge.
Diebond (pronounced D-Bond) is a polyethelyne core top lamnated with factory painted satin gloss aluminum. If you need the thikness of 3/4 inch, (which I see no reason you would) you could glue it over an exterior plywood with the edges properly filled and primered.
[ January 01, 2004, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Dave Draper ]
posted
I still use MDO outdated or not, buy it primed, prime it one more time, then 2 coats of heavy topcoat. I use this material because it gives the customer the feel of a substantial sign.
Dibond is great but thin like a wafer, Just because the other substrates are newer doesnt mean they are always better. I have seen many of those fancy shancy over laminates DE-laminate quickly too.
I see no reason to tint the primer though! Paint it well and dont be shy on the paint!
[ January 01, 2004, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: Bob Rochon ]
-------------------- Bob Rochon Creative Signworks Millbury, MA 508-865-7330
"Life is Like an Echo, what you put out, comes back to you." Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998
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The project I'm working on right now is a set of 4' x 4' warning signs which are used to warn motorists during the local Tinman Triathlon. It's a volunteer project, the Tri raises money for the local Food Pantry.
I'm renovating old signs (changing color from orange to yellow then lettering with the projector, stabillo, and One Shot), and making a couple additional ones.
The old ones are painted plywood, and I'm using MDO for the new ones because it is smoother and not much more expensive than AC ply. There is a set of legs attached to each sign with wood screws.
These signs are only used two days per year, then hauled back to the parks department and stored. Durability during handling is important.
I need to learn more about alternative substrates. And how to install/hang them.
I've used Dibond for a sign which went onto the door of an airplane workshop.
One of the Aluminum/Corrugated Plastic boards might have worked for the hanging sign at the Ski Shop, but it would have swung in the wind too much. MDO plus a wooden frame to keep the MDO flat was a hassle to build, but it was heavy enough to behave itself.
Hopefully one of the vendors at the Mazeppa Winter Muster will have more info about alternative panels and how to edge them. Also, how are these corrugated materials edge capped if the sign is not rectangular?
posted
I still use MDO! What most people don't realise, is that there are different grades of MDO! Your local home improvement store will usually carry the cheapest grade.
posted
In answer to the tinting question, I wouldn't use more than 10% background enamel in the primer. I believe it's preferable to tint with universal tinting colors available all paint stores that mix colors. I would just use black, and only tint to greys...you accomplish the same thing as you would using a particular color, which is to reduce values between the primer and the top coat.And it makes the paint shelf a little easier to manage. That's my 2 cents...........
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
Dave,Si,Jeff,and Bob are all correct when using MDO. I use 6mil Alumacore as an alternative substrate for less time consumption in the prime,finish,sealing process required for the wood With edge cap trim.ALL prices are comparable,with the customer recieving the benifits of longer lasting materials(investment on thier part) As far as "hanging/swinging" promblem. I would suggest different approach for mounting.
Get with Mike Myers in Mazeppa to introduce you to Dan Flemming from Mid-West Sign Supply!
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