When you guys stick cut vinyl letters over flat truck sides with rivets, do you puncture the vinyl and heat and burnish the rivets before or after removing the app tape? What are your favorite tools for this process?
Posted by Brent Logan (Member # 6587) on :
I always did it after removing the transfer tape. I'd poke a couple of holes where the air is trapped heat it and beat it in with a 3M rivet brush.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
Similar to Brent, I'd work the vinyl down as much as possible before removing the transfer mask. With the masking still on, I'd prick 3 or 4 holes around the rivit. Keep working the vinyl down further. Then remove the masking. But then I'd use an old, cheap, soft plastic squeegie that was cut in half to "swivel" over the vinyl and around the rivit.
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on :
We just finished this trailer - rivets are every 2" vertically. The Rivet Sealer 3000 works great! We used Air Release media and pierced through the premask.
There is a piercing tool that has 4 fine needles, and a Teflon insert that fits on the heat gun to create heat and pressure giving new memory to the vinyl over rivets. Takes seconds, just like the video. The tool is presenty on sale for $169.00 Canadian (available at Express Sign Products).
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Lori, that is a very impressive way to do it. I'd need lots more rivets to justify that expense and sure don't want to start seeking them out. So does this tool require an air source and electricity also? That would limit it to being an in-shop tool?
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on :
Rick, no air source, just electricity for the heat gun. I would pay twice as much for this tool just because it takes so much less time and effort over a rivet brush. Yes, we don't seek out rivets either but they always manage to find us! Posted by Ron Percell (Member # 399) on :
I use felt squeegee to apply the graphics, and while the mask on, work all of the air towards the rivet with out forcing the air.
Avoid over stretching the vinyl, the adhesive will separate from the vinyl. Next I puncture 1-2 small holes at the bottom of the rivet at the 6 o'clock position and follow up with the felt again. If the air releases great, if not try just a little more with a plastic squeegee, just to get it closer.
Now remove transfer mask, and if needed gently apply heat to get any final bubbles or as a final heat-set.
Again,,,,avoid over heating vinyl so the adhesives don't separate
Good Luck
Posted by Donna in BC (Member # 130) on :
Lori, that is incredible!
Posted by Sonny Franks (Member # 588) on :
I'm with Donna - I've never seen such a clean application. We all hate rivets, but they're a common enemy and it appears Lori has the ultimate weapon. I gotta get one of those....
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on :
Well Thanks guys! Yup, we hate rivets too, but with the right vinyl and the right tool, it's pretty easy. The decal was 14 feet wide and took approx. 10 man hours to install. I don't know if that's fast or slow - one of my girls stops working when she talks (which is a lot!) Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
Here's another tool that works well for around $50. The RollePro is quite versatile.
Wow do I love my new U-Verse internet service from AT&T. It's so fast and reliable.
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[ July 22, 2013, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on :
I also have the RollePro, doesn't hold a candle to the Rivet Sealer 3000. The RollePro video looks impressive, but in real life isn't nearly as quick or easy. We found it to wrinkle vertically in between the rivets. Just my opinion!
Posted by Dave Sherby (Member # 698) on :
Lori, I found the same thing and attributed it to not enough practice.
Posted by Aaron Haynes (Member # 490) on :
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