The Letterville BullBoard: Projecting images

This is topic Projecting images in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.

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Posted by Debbie Karr (Member # 11598) on :

I will be creating my first mural using the projection method. I've always used the good ol' graphic method by re-creating a small scale drawing to large scale on the wall. It's time-consuming to say the least. My know-how of projecting has only come from the Walldogs BUT I don't know how to go about sizing my image onto sheets of acetate. My mural is 20x28w so I would imagine I need to break down the size to create 4, 6, 8... images to equal the 20x28w size. [Confused]

I also realize that my projection depth will play a factor. Hopefully this all makes sense.

Next is the type of acetate to choose. I have a Cannon printer ... is there a brand of acetate to choose over another, what mil thickness should I use.... maybe I should stick with my old way which I know best. [Frown]

Any advice or help is much appreciated. [Thanks]

See ya'll in Arcola!!! [Applause]

Posted by John Arnott (Member # 215) on :

Debbie, I would suggest that you set up the projector and make a quick test size. Remember that it will distorts somewhat toward the edges. I just draw on the acetate and do some measurments.
First thing to note is where you can place the projector. Sometimes you can't set the projector exactly where you want to. I once "had" to make it from way across the street.
Hope this makes sence. It's easy to figure out by testing this way.

Posted by Debbie Karr (Member # 11598) on :

Why didn't I think of that. Good idea. Thanks

Posted by FranCisco Vargas (Member # 145) on :

Debbie, I would suggest making your drawing to scale, in your case maybe making it to 10"x14" (1/2" scale) it can also be made into two pieces and use clear tape to seam it together. you can then either scan it and print on "inkjet transparencies" for your printer unless its a laser printer then you can use any type of tranparency. More then likely you will have to be around 20'-30' from your wall. I would get a rolling cart and make a line on the ground with either a string, rope or chalk and follow it to so you stay in the same distance and not get out of wack for your drawing. I would also recommend to try to stay out of people homes in the middle of the night using their windows to project from. good luck and hope this helps you some... [Wink]

Posted by Debbie Karr (Member # 11598) on :

LMAO!!! [Rolling On The Floor]

Been there, done that! Good advice! I will also take John's advice & do some test samples. Thanks so much [Group Hug]

See you in Arcola!

Posted by Brent Logan (Member # 6587) on :

Debbie, Don't mess around with buying a box of transparency sheets if there's a Kinkos nearby. Just print your drawing on paper and have them make a copy on a transparency.

Posted by Preston McCall (Member # 351) on :

I find projectors a total pain in the side. Can't get the distortion correct and the light is never bright enough. Hate getting up on a scissors or manlift in the dark and having to chase shadows.
Personally, I much prefer just a scale drawing. If it is a concrete block wall or brick, I even lay in the exact shape of the blocks on the drawing and blow up separate areas of the drawing per group of blocks to get tight detail right. I find this much faster, but it does require some drawing and lettering abilities.

I rough it in just using a 2" latex brush and then try to do as much as possible with a fluffy roller. I did a RAM sign on block last fall with a 3" roller and had it done in one day. http://www.prestonmccall.com/wall_murals.htm
The one below was on the inside of a client's house with the football players and stadium. It took me eight days, as I had to quadruple coat out the walls first with the deep red. It was below freezing here, then and the 8 days inside was a blessing, especially when I charged +$10k to do them.

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