I think the flattening paste along gonna make it dry faster. As for adding the hardener for longivity, fa-get-about-it. The flatness of the dried painted surface is just more prone to absorbing contaminates. Exterior work, walls, vehicles, windows, are just subject to corrosion with or without hardener. So save your money. IF, you want a long lasting flat finish, clear it with a (I can't believe I'm saying this) water based clear. Or if the the job warrants it, use a automotive flat clear.
-------------------- Signs by Alicia Jennings (Mudflap Girl) Tacoma, WA Since 1987 Have Lipstick, will travel. Posts: 3812 | From: Tacoma, WA. U.S.A. | Registered: Dec 1999
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I do some work for the faded-aged lettering crowd on old pickups. I use flatten-er and clear with a little color and hardener. The reason for the hardener is so that when I mechanically age the lettering I have some resistance. Lettering straight sometimes gets all crumbley and comes off in chunks...for me. I'm using a scuff pad for the removal. I have had zero problems with the hardener so far. Only time hardener is a problem is in striping where the paint gets jello-y when paletted. I have learned to put hardener in the thinner pan and it is fresh to the mix whenever I palette. Jer/Artworx
-------------------- Gerald Barlow Artworx Turlock, CA
95380 firstname.lastname@example.org Posts: 198 | From: Turlock, CA 95380, USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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