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This will be a first for me so I'm looking for advice from those of you that have done something similar. I have a customer that has a steel sided building that is what I call "ribbed" meaning that there are channels every 10-12". I'll be painting a fairly simple logo, all red with a black drop shadow, but the entire image will be about 25 feet long. What is the best way to transfer the image to the building, and what paint would you recommend. The painted side of the wall does not get direct sun, so that should help longevity. I've got to get started soon, so any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Denny
-------------------- Denny Smith 2 B Personalized Marion IN Posts: 52 | From: Marion IN | Registered: Sep 2006
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Denny......... I'd likely project it.....probably in sections to allow for the distortions. Use a stabilo so you can correct lines come daylight. Then I'd scuff it up & use an acrylic latex....Porter/Rhino black & Para for the red. Para is a Canadian paint & they have a red base that gives absolutely amazing reds with decent longevity. I believe they have some distributors/dealers in lower MI & northern IN.
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 472 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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Denny, I did a huge Hummer roof made out of steel with huge ribs. What I used for paint was Porter DTM (direct to metal) and it worked great. Here's the pictures...
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Hi denny, Ive been painting these for 30 years, we use paper patterns for most. When the project is to big for patterns we switch to Scaling the project by using a triangulating grid (a square with an X in the middle) then hand layout the graphics with chalk (lightly) and snap lines.
Prep surfaces by dusting. If it needs further cleaning, just use water. Many prep products leave residues.
I always use Oil Base Enamels, unless the owner asks us to use their paints.
I find that a Angled Fitch works best for cutting in the edge of the letters, and then fill in the letters with a Flat or a Cuttter, on some larger projects we'll use a foam Roller.
Good Luck on your project, and your welcome to call if you've any other questions.
Ron
-------------------- Ron Percell Percell Signs 707-769-0639 Petaluma, California
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Sherwin-Williams also has DTM paints, Denny. They should work fine. I've been a long believer in oil paints, but they get crappier everyday, while latex gets better.
An opaque projector will work fine, but you're going to have to do it at nite. If you've done projecting before, you know you'll have to deal with distortions from the lens.
As Ron said, if it's not too complicated, it's easier to use the grid method; and you won't have to deal with the distortions.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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You make a scaled sketch and for instance 1" equals 1 foot (12") you have a grid of 1" squares on the drawing and then a grid of 12" squares (usually with a chalk line) on the building, then it's easy to sketch in the drawing on the building.
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Use the ribs as part of your grid. If they are every 12' on center, then make your scale drawing at 12" - if they are 10" apart, then use that as a guide.
-------------------- Gene Golden Gettysburg Signs Gettysburg PA 17325 717-334-0200 genegolden@gettysburgsigns.com
"Art is knowing when to stop." Posts: 1578 | From: Gettysburg, PA | Registered: Jun 2003
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