This is topic Laminating HDU in forum Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk at The Letterville BullBoard.


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Posted by Gregg Parkes (Member # 7710) on :
 
Hi all

This has been covered many times and I have no problem with the process.

Just curious though, when using West Systems fibreglass, HOW MUCH?

Do you generously cover the sheets (or just one sheet) which when routing can tend to show the join or:

Do you just "film" it one or two sides and let the 'glass work?

Do you use a paintbrush, squeegee of some sort, or notched spreader? Maybe there is something I haven't considered.

Thanks in advance

Gregg
 
Posted by Dan Sawatzky (Member # 88) on :
 
Hey Greg!

I use Coastal Enterprises PB Bond-240 when I laminate my HDU (Precision Board) not Epoxy for just the reason you mention. The PB Bond 240 is like gorilla glue but it doesn't expand as much. If its a small piece I clamp things up good. If it's big I screw it tight them take out the screws later. It leaves small holes where the screws were but its no big deal.

-grampa dan
 
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
 
Gregg, I've been using polyurethane glue from I think AVS company- but you can get it from Mitre-10 hardware stores up here. It's #705 & 706.
Like gorilla glue, it expands & cures as it absorbs humidity & moisture.

What I'm uncertain about is what's the best filler for filling holes & scratches/gouges. The 2 part auto bog is too hard & when sanded leaves obvious marks around the site as the HDU sands more easily.

I tried a waterbased spakfiller type of stuff, but when I put the zinnzer u/c on, it sort of washed it back off.

Maybe i SHOULKD GRAB SOME AQUADHERE & MULTIPANEL DUST & MIX THAT UP...oops sorry about the caps lock.

[ July 25, 2010, 01:37 AM: Message edited by: Ian Stewart-Koster ]
 
Posted by Gregg Parkes (Member # 7710) on :
 
Dan, I might try and import some PB Bond - 240 if allowed.

Ian I hear ya.

But I really need to know - what thickness- how much - what to you coat it with and to what thickness - vinyl, paper, honey?

Cheers
 
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
 
What filler do you use, Gregg?

As for glue- we 'just do it'.
It's sticky stuff-doesn't take much at all, just a thin smear.
 
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
 
I'm confused.............are we taliking about a fibreglass(?)glue or just a PU glue?

For filling small holes and voids I use Bondo's Glazing and Spot Putty. It's softer than their filler so it sands smooth without the "bump" that Stewey describes. It's one part and dries fast.

Joe,

Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!
 
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
 
That PB bond is some good stuff, like Dan said, it is not nearly as messy as Gorilla glue.

Joe, the spot putty is good, but I've run into cases over the years, where is shrinks as it dries, requiring multiple coats. I've been using an indoor/outdoor spackling compound, made by DAP, I think, that is very light, fast drying and easy to sand. It has a similar consistency to the HDU. Sometimes, when using a filler, when you sand it...if the filler is harder than the foam or vice-versa, it can make sanding more difficult. This stuff sands very smoothly.
 
Posted by Joe Cieslowski (Member # 2429) on :
 
Thanks Dale, I'm aware of that.....I should have emphasized "small".

So, what's with this "fibreglass" glue????? It really sounds interesting.

Joe,

Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!
 
Posted by Gregg Parkes (Member # 7710) on :
 
Seems to be a little misunderstanding???

Appliques etc are fine - I have no problem.

Filling holes are no problem, I either use a water based filler, or a basic two part eoxy filler - such as that used for auto repairs.

I am mainly referring to bonding two 2400 x 1200mm or 6' x 4' (72" x 48") sheets of say 1 inch HDU together, to end up with a 2 inch or 50mm substrate (max 30mm thickness HDU here in Oz).

What thickness bonding agent such as two part resin do you apply... and how?

Thanks
 
Posted by Gregg Parkes (Member # 7710) on :
 
PS Ian, I fill heavy gouges and holes with auto filler, but when it gets to 75% cured, file the excess off with either heavy sandpaper, or a ladies throwaway emery board. Too hard and is impossible to remove without marring the HDU.

Standard sheets after a light sand I "trowell" Viponds Hi Build Sanding Sealer over the whole sheet. After drying and a light sand comes up smooth as - ready for rolling undercoat and then main coats.
 
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
 
Joe,

I presume the fellows are meaning fiberblass resin.

Here's one of my favorite hole fillers.
Mix equal amounts of Fiberblass resin with Bondo. Add both hardners and pour into holes. After a few minutes, when the mixture gets leathery, a sharp chisel is used to slice off any excess. It's ready to paint in an hour.
 
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
 
Gregg, When I use to use the Epoxy to Join HDU I would put it on a little thicker. 1mm (1/32) It seemed to me if I would go thinner it would Soak up in the HDU and Adhere the 2 panels together improperly, Leaving voids that I would have to comeback and fill. In a Pinch I have used Titebond 3 on HDU but not recommended (Way different bond line and a pain to blend)
I now "like every one else" use the PB Bond,if I don't want to wait on delivery the Gorilla Glue but GG makes a Huge MESS and you need a lot of clamps to keep you panels from lifting and shifting

[ July 25, 2010, 12:31 PM: Message edited by: William DeBekker ]
 
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
 
Joe, just curious.....I use bondo and resin mixed together every so often.....but why do you use both hardeners? I just use the bondo hardener and it seems to work fine...
 
Posted by Rusty Bradley (Member # 6938) on :
 
Dale...I use the Dap product also...I have found that if I put a couple of coats of paint on first before filling the hole...the patch doesn't show.
 
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
 
We use West System two part epoxy to glue panels together. A thin coat is squeeged on each surface and then the two panels are held in place with clamps or weight (gallon cans of paint).

For patching holes we use Magic Sculpt.
 
Posted by Wayne Webb (Member # 1124) on :
 
I've used both West Systems and PB240 and have had no failures reported with either. The largest sign we did with the epoxy is about 260 miles away from here so I can't check on it to see how it's doing. Both will work if you do it right; but I prefer PB240 because cleaning up squeezeout is easier and because of the fact that you are using urethane to bond urethane.
 
Posted by Joe Crumley (Member # 2307) on :
 
Thanks Dale,

I'll have to give it a go. The hardner for Fiberglass Resin has never been easy to tell how much is needed.
 
Posted by Chris Lovelady (Member # 2540) on :
 
pb bond here. here is a step by step to show how to laminate 2 pieces together. we use a mesh that is used in brown coating stucco and it is glued between the 2 pieces and give excellent support. i like Dan's idea of the screews but when you blast i am not sure of the reseluts were the screws have been. just my 2 cents...was talking to Joe Crumley today about this very thing! thanks for the call Joe!

http://www.letterville.com/steps/chrislovelady/index.htm

Lovelady
 


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