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I am getting frustrated with what I thought was a simple project. I did some signs for a Dentist 20 years ago. They are foam with a dark green blasted background and gold leaf lettering and a "frame", all the same material. Now he wants them "freshened". Since it was a long time ago I need to repaint the whole sign and re-gild. BUT I can't use the same materials as they are no longer reliable. Dark green enamel fades quickly. Sooo I decided to do the following: paint background with Nova dark green (takes two coats. I'm getting splashes of acrylic on the lettering and I wipe it off as I go. Gild seems ok on top of that. (slow over fast..) However, I found that slow size puddles on the letters in our current 104 heat. Arguuuh! I wiped it off and couldn't get rid of the stickiness until I used lacquer thinner and that wrecked the background so I had to coat it again.I found that a coat of frog juice fixed the stickiness and I have re-gilded successfully. I am brushing the acrylic as spraying dropped way too much paint on the letter faces. Is there a technique that would be simpler?
-------------------- Gerald Barlow Artworx Turlock, CA
95380 artworx@bigvalley.net Posts: 198 | From: Turlock, CA 95380, USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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Sounds to me that you are doing everything right. I use latex for the background. Sometimes it is just easier to go ahead and coat right over the raised letter area too, let dry, and then size. Just like a new sign.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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I can relate to the "simple job gone bad" issue. We've all had those unfortunately. Hopefully those are few and far between. Regarding the painting, we have switched to latex acrylic house paints and have had good results. However, I've never gilded on top of latex. My concern is that the latex paint takes a very long time to fully cure - up to 30 days in humid Florida. Until then the surface remains somewhat soft. I'd be interested to hear others experiences with gilding on top of water based paints.
-------------------- Jean Shimp Shimp Sign & Design Co. Jacksonville Beach, Fl Posts: 1265 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6712 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I agree with Joe (and Gary and Kent). You need a barrier coat between the latex paint and the size. Latex paint out gasses and releases the size if there is not a barrier between. At least, that is what I understand from the experts.
I normally just paint over everything (letters, trim, etc.) with the background color and then go back and add the details. Much quicker.
Good to see you again, Joe.
-------------------- Chapman Sign Studio Temple, Texas chapmanstudio@sbcglobal.net Posts: 6306 | From: Temple, Texas, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I've been using Frog Juice as a "barrier" coat. TiCoat is just wax and I don't trust it in this situation. Frog juice seems to work very well and adds to the gloss of the surface I gild on.
-------------------- Gerald Barlow Artworx Turlock, CA
95380 artworx@bigvalley.net Posts: 198 | From: Turlock, CA 95380, USA | Registered: Dec 2002
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If latex paint "outgasses" until it is fully cured and there is a barrier coat on top of uncured paint, it seems to me there will be a problem at some point. If the barrier is acting as a vapor trap, what is happening to the vapor? I would suspect that it may cause a blister in the size.
-------------------- Jean Shimp Shimp Sign & Design Co. Jacksonville Beach, Fl Posts: 1265 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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