Has anyone used any of the clear laminate films, made for digital prints, over painted or hand-lettered signs.....or can it even be done?
Are any of the regular (over-the-counter) adhesives able to effectively glue coroplast, or do you have to get one of the specialized glues? (like Weld-On, or something like that)
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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Hi Dale. Personally I think there are too many variables to give a definative answer to your first question. Aa an example, supposing that your painted graphic had magenta and dark blue as the predominant colours. Those two do have a relatively higher dye content, and because of that they MIGHT be prone to the dye interacting with the clear adhesive and forming a dye halo around those colours. Other colours may vary by having a higher pigment ratio, and being less seceptible to the dye migration/interaction with the adhesive. Your only option would be to do some testing with different colours and stages of curing.
-------------------- Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail: kjmlhenry@rogers.com
Why do I get all those on-line offers to sell me Viagara, when the only thing hardening is my arteries ? Posts: 2684 | From: London,Ontario, Canada | Registered: Feb 1999
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Personally, I would spray them with a clear vandal-resistant coating. One-Shot makes one.
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6451 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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Bruce, can the anti-grafitti stuff be rolled? Since my stroke, I really don't have enough strength in my right arm yet, to feel real secure with a spray gun.
Si, there are several types of hot glue. Which one? I've had some that didn't hold real well.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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I have tried hot glue with dismal results over time. The only thing I ever got to stick and stay put was Liquid Nails on coroplast. Would love to hear from others on this sticky issue.
-------------------- Preston McCall 112 Rim Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 text: 5056607370 Posts: 1552 | From: Santa Fe, New Mexico | Registered: Nov 1998
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Ok, I did some googlin' around and found some tips, mostly related to model airplane builders, but it should work for us too.
They recommend using cyanacrylate (which is what Super Glue is), but say that you can but CA glue at hobby shops or on the internet much cheaper than the eyedropper-size at most stores.
The technique involves using a small propane torch, and flashing it across the surface to be glued.This does something to change the surface structure, making it easier to glue. Then, put tiny drops of CA about 1/8 to 1/4 apart, along the seam to be glued. The press the parts together and hold for about a minute to get stuff bonded. They said the key ( I guess with all CA gluing) is to use it sparingly. Too much glue lessens the bond. Also, too much can eat into the coro, making it weak.
Another technique involves using VHB tape. They list a #4905 that is supposed to work well. I've used double-sided tape myself (some other brand) and it did work pretty well.
Good gluing!
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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Personally I would clear coat with... Ronan's Aquathane it comes UV in flat, Satin, Gloss and is clear for a outstanding amount of years and even more durable
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