Letterville Bull Board Letterville | Bull Board
 


 

Front Page
A Letterhead History
About Us
Become A Resident
Edit Your Database Info
Find A Letterhead

Letterville Merchants
Resident Downloads
Letterville BookShop
Future Live Meets
Past Meets
Step-By-Steps
Past Panel Swaps
Past SOTM
Letterhead Profiles
Business Cards
Become A Merchant

Click on the button
below to chat with other
Letterville users.

http://www.letterville.com/ubb/chaticon.gif

Steve & Barb Shortreed
144 Hill St., E.
Fergus, ON, Canada
N1M 1G9

Phone: 519-787-2892
Fax: 519-787-2673
Email: barb@letterville.com

Copyright ©1995-2008
The Letterhead Website

 

 

The Letterville BullBoard Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
my profile login | search | faq | calendar | im | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » Sea Side Commission

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: Sea Side Commission
Joe Crumley
Visitor
Member # 2307

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Crumley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I need a little help from my friends, who live near the ocean.

We've taken on a commission for two sign panels for beech front property, and have no idea what paint and fixtures to use. The proerty owners mentioned the corrosive atmosphere and wanted to avoid regular screws and metal fixtures for mounting.

I am planning on using HDU and probably Acrylic Latex paint. These are approx 2'X8' wall mounted signs with 23K incised letters.

I would appreciated suggestions from Letterheads with coastside sign experience.

J.
www.normansignco.com

--------------------
Joe Crumley
Norman Sign Company
2200 Research Park Blvd.
Norman, OK
73069

Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Smith
Resident


Member # 1308

Icon 1 posted      Profile for John Smith   Email John Smith   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Look at it from the nautical side..... whatever will work on a boat exposed to the salt and UV elements will work on a sign. Your number one choice of HDU is excellent!!! mounted with STAINLESS hardware is your second. NOT aluminum or EG galvanized. HOT DIPPED galvanized will work for a few years. Brass will start to go even sooner. When our local Scotty's went out of business, I waited til the 75% discount days and bought up nearly ALL of their stainless screws, eye bolts, shackles and bolts. And they are reserved strictly for the harsher elements. This topic has been brought up before many times. You will get a varied array of responses such as how far from the water, which direction does it face, yada yada yada.
Just choose what you think will work best for your application and come back and let us know what you did !!!

Oh, yeah.... what I base my answer on is that I have done several signs for the National Park Service on oceanfronts in Georgia and Florida. The latest being the Cumberland Island National Seashore on the GA/FL border. It is a small island surrounded on all sides with the ocean. It don't get no more intense than that.
Go with stainless !!!

[ February 17, 2005, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]

--------------------
John Smith
Kings Bay Signs (Retired)
Kissimmee, Florida

Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Rees
Visitor
Member # 211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Rees   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Rees   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Stainless and HDU - YES. Gold leaf - YES.

Acrylic Latex paint? No so important in my opinion. That is, personally, I don't use it - favoring Benjamin Moore Impervo with a Urethane hardener added.

The other big substrates we use a lot are PVC and Dibond, which both also make excellent backing supports for HDU panels. Favorite adhesive is PL polyurethane in a caulking tube.

For brackets and 'iron'-work we use aluminum, painted in a satin black. Not as strong as steel, but won't give you rust streaks after a few years. We have a local shop who does great 'fake' wrought iron out of aluminum. Here's a recent example:

 -

 -

 -

--------------------
Joe Rees
Cape Craft Signs
(Cape Cod, MA)
http://www.capecraft.com
e-mail: joe@capecraft.com

SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity!
Click Here for Sound Clips!

Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dean McGray
Visitor
Member # 4954

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Dean McGray   Email Dean McGray       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Latex paint will work great.
We use it on Lobster Bouys,There made of foam and under water half the time.

--------------------
Dean McGray
Signs By Deano
165 Indian River Rd.
Addison, Me. 04606

Posts: 17 | From: Addison, Maine | Registered: Sep 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ray Skaines
Visitor
Member # 3702

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Ray Skaines   Author's Homepage   Email Ray Skaines   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Hey Joe.
Stainless first choice.
Hot dipped galvanized second.
With the Texas coast aluminum corrodes pretty quick down here. HDU works great with latex paint. Enamels not so good.

Hope you can make it to Fred's in March. If so see ya there.

Joe, awesome sign. You guys do great work.

Ray

--------------------
Ray Skaines
League City, Tx
www.srsigns.com

Posts: 130 | From: League City, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Crumley
Visitor
Member # 2307

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Crumley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Thanks Guys,

All the information above is exactly what I need.

John's sage advice to avoid brass was a surprize to me, because that's what I would have used. Thanks John.

Joe R.
Dang, your River Vale Township sign is so special, along with the almuninum brackets and beautifull posts.

What are your posts make from, and how will you install them.

My client is hoping for a driftwood look with mounting on a shake cedar wall. I've been considering a set of powder coated nautical mounting brackets, lapping over the front on each end of the sign.

I could do this job so easy if it wasn't for the dog gone salt water.

Thanks again for all your good suggestions

J.

--------------------
Joe Crumley
Norman Sign Company
2200 Research Park Blvd.
Norman, OK
73069

Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Rees
Visitor
Member # 211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Rees   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Rees   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Joe Crumley:
Joe R.
What are your posts make from, and how will you install them.

The posts are 6x6 PT with 6x6 vinyl sleeves and vinyl caps we get from a local fence company. The lower, fluted skirts were fabbed in house from 3/4" PVC sheeting (Sintra), glued together with pvc cement. All parts scuffed and painted with satin Benjamin Moore Ironclad alkyd enamel with a urethane hardener added.

About 36" of bare PT stick out below the lower skirts for sinking into the ground. We won't be installing these (the town is sending a truck across state lines to pick them up), but I will be recommending them to pack the holes tightly with gravel rather than concrete, for drainage.

Back to your project Joe -
Weight doesn't seem like it's going to be a factor in your hardware decisions. If you fasten the panels with some kind of blind clips from behind it will free you up to make your visible, purely decorative "hardware" out of almost anything. Think about things like 1/4" PVC that you could cut into just about any shape, bend, hammer, grind and spackle to look like gnarly rusted ship's fittings (or whatever's appropriate).

--------------------
Joe Rees
Cape Craft Signs
(Cape Cod, MA)
http://www.capecraft.com
e-mail: joe@capecraft.com

SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity!
Click Here for Sound Clips!

Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Smith
Resident


Member # 1308

Icon 1 posted      Profile for John Smith   Email John Smith   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Joe C.
Just a short expansion on my suggestion of not using aluminum or brass. I meant for the fasteners. NOT brackets or other decorative items. The reason being is that once you get bare aluminum, brass and copper buried into wood, brick, mortar or other dense surfaces, moisture (salty moisture) tends to accumulate and degrades the metal quite rapidly. I spent 20 years in the Navy around the ocean and have seen just how these metals work (or don't work) around harsh elements. Not just for signs, but, for general hardware on houses and nearby structures. You would be surprised at what the Navy Public Works "engineers" would use on windows, doors and such. This is where I really learned about aluminum, brass, bronze and stainless hardware. Plus, with the countless boats I have owned through all those years has broadened my knowledge in the metallurgical department.
The aluminum brackets Joe Rees had fabricated is simply awesome!! Plus, they can be taken down periodically for maintenance, if needed. Once the heads of aluminum or brass screws go, they have to be drilled out and that just ain't professional (or purdy). Spend the extra few bucks for stainless and bill it into your final price or as a separate line item with the installation fee to show your customer just how much stainless is nowadays and also so he will know he has your best interest in hand.
And please share some photos and techniques when you get it all done !!!!

One last note::: mixing two dissimilar metals together will also give you bad results. i.e. aluminum touching stainless, copper and aluminum as well as aluminum on aluminum.

[ February 19, 2005, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]

--------------------
John Smith
Kings Bay Signs (Retired)
Kissimmee, Florida

Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
shon lenzo
Visitor
Member # 1364

Icon 1 posted      Profile for shon lenzo   Email shon lenzo       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I do alot of signs on the coast here in Oregon.
One thing I like to do sometimes
is just use Fir or Cedar
and prime/paint the area of the lettering only-leaving the wood to weather naturally.
It looks great!
These days I think if a sign lasts 8 years,
it has probably paid for itself.
They can pay me to do another one after that.
(If the business even lasts that long at the location)
I have one sandblasted sign that has been up over 15 years on the coast,
often with 100 miles an hour wind and rain, followed by sun,
I used thread rod and stack laminated 2 x 4's
to make sure it held together.
You can really get that driftwood coastal look
with real weathered wood.
Good luck!

--------------------
Light and Shadow
Manzanita,Oregon
shonlenzo@hotmail.com

Posts: 286 | From: Manzanita,Oregon | Registered: Feb 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


Contact Us | Letterville. A Community Of Letterheads & Pinheads!

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2

Search For Sign Supplies
Category:
 

                  

Letterhead Suppliers Around the World