bummer... I decided that paint mask was going to work to mask off some outlines on my first HDU sign. It goes high up, so I havn't been concerning myself with achieving a super-smooth surface.
Well, as you can see the stencil mask is not bonding enough to serve the purpose. I've got 2 9' signs all masked.
I always remove my mask right away... never tried leaving it on, but I'm wondering about a awning stencil technique I've heard... What if I lay down a coat or red outline on these letters, that will bleed under mask on the red letters. Then tomorrow I would paint black outlines on the same mask. The seam should be sealed with the red paint... but will the mask tear the underlying red paint & ruin things worse?
I just tried a second one of those sunburst things in the top picture, but even with more of a drybrush approach to build up opacity, without excess liquid, the paint is still too thin (new can of 1-shot)
Any ideas anyone?
*edit* oops, forgot pic!
[ September 20, 2003, 02:51 AM: Message edited by: Doug Allan ]
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
Looks uniform enough to me to call it an "EXTREME" outline...think the customer will buy it?
Sorry for your troubles but couldn't "resist"
forgive the pun too ...I'm sorry!
Posted by Monte Jumper (Member # 1106) on :
I know if ya can't help ...go away.
Why not just try masking again and rolling the color on then remove mask while wet ...try it on one ...nothing ventured nothng gained.
Are you using One shot over One shot or One shaot over water base?
I'm guessing the latter...never seen One Shot not stick to One Shot.
Still sorry for your troubles. Hope this helped.
Posted by Steve Nuttle (Member # 2645) on :
Doug we use Latex on most of our HDU signs. If we use mask we always brush a coat of the underlying color to "seal" any spots in the mask that might leak. Since latex dries quickly you don't waste a day. Works great as long as you are careful when removing the mask.
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
black 1-shot over red 1-shot so far (actually a base coat of Glidden oil base background color sprayed over everything first). The paint sticks fine... the vinyl-mask just doesn't stick, because the surface is pourous. I like the extreme, yet uniform look myself.. but I'm my own worst critic of matching my proofs, & I know this client would be my second worst critic.
I guess it's too late to switch to latex, but for the letters that are already masked but not painted black, guess I'll try painting red to seal the gap. leaving the red to dry may cause the removal of the mask to tear another "extreme" jaggy outline though... anyone with specific experience to warn me on this?
Posted by KARYN BUSH (Member # 1948) on :
maybe i just aint gettin it...but...couldn't ya just go back and cut in red with a brush? i've had stuff bleed on me in a few small places with mask and i've just cut it in with a small brush.
Posted by Steve Nuttle (Member # 2645) on :
Doug that is always a potential problem. Make sure that when you pull your mask that you pull away from the newly painted area. Don't know if that makes sense or not. If you are careful you shouldn't have a problem.
Posted by Doug Allan (Member # 2247) on :
I could probably free-hand the outline without mask too, but I got 18 feet of 12 inch letters all masked & due to be installed soon. As much fun & rewarding as brush work can be I want to save the 4 hours that would peobably take me. If I can. Posted by dave parr (Member # 3868) on :
quote: It goes high up, so I havn't been concerning myself with achieving a super-smooth surface.
Just touch it up?
Posted by dave parr (Member # 3868) on :
Doug, Sorry, posted incomplete message.
If I understand what you are doing, the red is down, dry and you are adding the black. The letters are masked and ready to go. Go ahead, squeegee as best you can just prior to brushing on the black. Palette the black out on a card, dry brush as best you can, but get the paint on there. Do one face at a time. Peel right away & touch-up the bleeds before they are completely dry to try & avoid as much of the lap marks as possible. Use the same consistency for the paint, don't load the brush up, continue to palette the paint to work it into the brush & work off the tip of the brush to avoid laying a lot more paint on. They are going to viewed from a distance. They will be fine & you won't loose a lot of time. Posted by Danny Busselle (Member # 3746) on :
That's Consistant Outline. DA Express Outline.
Posted by Miles Cullinane (Member # 980) on :
doug i think you are on the right track with the first idea you had. the awning technique is what you need so that the bleeds will be the colour as the background.
[ September 21, 2003, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: Miles Cullinane ]
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Doug,
Leave the mask on but use it as a guide for brushing on the outline. Have your brush strokes follow the edge just slightly shy of touching the mask so it won't creep under. You should be able to thin the paint a little and it should take less time than you think for both signs once you get a rythm going.
Hope this helps. Rapid
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
oug, what about laying a coat or two of clear down to seal any potential leaks first? Then put down the color. You could use TiCoat or something with a UV benefit that kicks off quickly.
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
Doug - I have used the bleed-thru on the first coat technique you described with the background color and also the bleed-thru with a clear as described by Rick. Both should work.
Posted by Jeff Ogden (Member # 3184) on :
If you sprayed the color it will not bleed nearly as much as it will brushing it on, if at all.If you paint red to let it bleed, then paint black, it would skim over and come off on blotches when you peel, unless you add one extra step, which is to cut the edge with an exacto before peeling. It shouldn't take that long to cut, once you make up your mind to do it.
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