I have been doing many of these things over the last few months. A millionare railroad tycoon came to me and asked if I would restore some antique signs for him. I didn't know what I was in for. This is one of about 200 that I have left on my agenda. I have probably done about 20 this year. Most of the signs are RR oriented, but his pool area is mostly Pop signs from the 40s to 60s. I sometimes don't have a lot to work with as you can see. I have to leave enough old material to follow. Some roughin painting done in this photo and rustproofing with phosphoric acid. In this photo the paint is much further along and I have used stencil cut from a Roland to do the delicate areas.(THIS WHOLE HOW-TO IS TO SHOW HOW DELICATE OF STENCIL THAT YOU CAN USE IN PAINTING ENAMELS)I used a bit of baby powder to decrease the tack which is important.. These signs were screenprinted originally, but even though we have screen printing facilities, it is not practical to set up for just one item. This is the photo just after the stencil was removed. I used a thin version of the OS enamel to shoot in an airbrush at 20# pressure, so as not to get blow under. Take your time and fill slowly on the painting The closeup results below should show a successful trial. I was relieved, as masking, blowby, bleedunders, peelups of bottom enamels, etc. are always close at hand. The main keys are correct tack on the mask, and taking it slow and easy on the airbrush. No touchups necessary. Posted by VICTORGEORGIOU (Member # 474) on :
Pretty Slick, Jack. Do you have before/afters of the others? I'd like to see all of them. Sounds like a great article for SignCraft Magazine!
Posted by cheryl nordby (Member # 1100) on :
Hey Jack... wow That looks like a fun job. Very intricate and time consuming I bet.
Posted by old paint (Member # 549) on :
bronz..are you using a 60 or 45 degree blade in the roland, i get finner cuts with the 60....and tell me where you have the "offset" set at...i still get a little connection where it starts and stops cut.
