Has anyone ever lettered over boiled linseed oil (on wood) with acrylics? I know I can use 1-shot, but I'll have to kill the shine.
Posted by Preston McCall (Member # 351) on :
wont stick never use latex over oil of you want adhesion
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Not to be argumentative, but I use acrylics over oil-based primers regularly with no adhesive issues. I've never used boiled linseed oil before though .....
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Latex will stick to oil based primers ... BUT ... NOT to oil based enamels!
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Si, what about sticking to boiled linseed oil? That was my original question.......
Posted by Cal Trauter (Member # 10938) on :
What about 1Shot and clear flattening paste or baby powder to kill the shine. Posted by Cal Trauter (Member # 10938) on :
What about 1Shot and clear flattening paste or baby powder to kill the shine. Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Boiled linseed oil will act just like oil based enamel!
1Shot with flatting paste is he way to go.
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Thanks Si & Cal. This will not be exposed to the weather so I guess the 1-shot will last.
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
Depending how dry the oil is, many times the enamel will run and be difficult to control.
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Well, just for *hits & giggles I tried a sample with Porter Acrishield satin over the boiled linseed oil. I put it on just a day after the oil was applied. 3 days later, I laid a strip of Gorilla Tape across it & yanked it off. Everything stayed put. Then I cut it 4 ways with an X-acto.... used 3M green tape & it still stuck. Not sure just how well it would hold up if exposed to the weather. I probably should use 1- shot anyway, although I hate the stuff ( instant headache)
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
Rodger,
Generally speaking, oil enamels are not the best choice for wood for two reasons. Oil based paints tend to seal the wood, like a hard shell. If sufficient moisture is in the wood it will force its way out during temperature changes, creating blisters. Water based acrylics are somewhat porous by comparison, allowing moisture to escape. Secondly, acrylic latex is kind of stretchy. It will move with the wood as the grain opens and closes during weather changes. Oil based enamels, with no give, just crack.
True, your wood has been painted with boiled oil, which might normally be a problem. But in the limited experience I have had with linseed oil it seems to penetrate the wood, instead of sitting on top like a shell.
You have done a thorough tape test in my opinion. And only a day after using the oil, when it would probably be the most problematic. I still respect conventional wisdom about using latex over oil, but modern acrylic latexes are very advanced. I think, in your case, the acrylic will outlast the oil.
Brad in Kansas City
Posted by Rodger MacMunn (Member # 4316) on :
Thanks Brad. I actually trust Porter or MF acrylics to adhere better than oil-based enamels anyway, so I went with my gut feeling. Obviously you can't really letter a truck with waterbased paints, but this sign is unlikely to get the weather a vehicle would. Yes, the boiled linseed oil penetrated the wood & was very dry within 2 days.
For the record, the linseed oil seemed to accelerate the drying of the acrylic. I painted my main copy through a mask without a bleed coat, & when I pulled the mask off 30 minutes later, a spit-soaked Q-tip wouldn't touch the bleeds. I find I usually can clean up stuff like that easily for an hour or more.
This was on very dry hemlock .... possibly 100 years old, so that may have contributed to how dry the oil got & how quickly it did so.
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