I have been searching on this forum about clear coats. I have also run into issues with clear coats and wondered if it was worth even messing with. I have a large sign to do for a business in town and I'm using polymetal for the substrate and vinyl lettering. What have you found to be the best vinyl for brutal Iowa winters and Hot summers? Waxing would help, right? So what wax should I use?
Also read about offering the customer a sign maintence contract. So I would go twice a year and rewax the sign. Am I on the right page with that?
Just want these signs to last and look good.
Thanks for any information.
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
In Norway with temps between + 30 and - 30(C),3M have never failed, no waxing either Posted by W. R. Pickett (Member # 3842) on :
Perhaps you can explain that vinyl signs are your cheapest, low end product, and they just don't last more than several years. And they, the client should expect on either maintaining it on a regular basis, or replacing it before it falls apart.
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
We never clear or wax anything and we live in Texas, where the summers are brutal.
The only clear that will outlast the substrate and vinyl are two-part automotive clears, but I still think that the best procedure is to use premium grade high performance vinyl and a substrate that will last as long as the vinyl - no clear.
Posted by Checkers (Member # 63) on :
Hiya Dita, The only time we clear-coat (paint or film) is for vandal protection or abrasion resistance. Anything else, i.m.h.o., is a waste of materials and money.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
Posted by Jon Butterworth (Member # 227) on :
No wax or clear coat here either.
I just as my customers how often they wash their car
Warm soapy water and a good hose down every now and then removes grime and oxidation and leaves the sign like new again.
Posted by Dita Mallon (Member # 3196) on :
Thank you for the helpful information. You made up my mind. High quality vinyl and nothing else on top. So, here's the big question. What do you think is a high quality vinyl?????
Posted by Jon Butterworth (Member # 227) on :
Any cast vinyl. I use Callon II and never had any problems. In fact it lasts longer than their specifications.
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
For many years I used Avery cast vinyl and never had a failure, in fact, 15 year old signs still look good. In later years Avery products started to deterioate, shrink and peel off.
I'd think 3M would be a way to go now.
edited to add that if you Do want to clearcoat anything, 2 part automotive clearcoat is the only way to go.
Wear a respirator while in contact with the product though...all the way from mixing to spraying or rolling.
[ January 05, 2011, 06:42 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
Posted by Lori Wilcox (Member # 8042) on :
We get our local auto body shop to clear coat bench signs for us - they are clear coated so people don't pick at the vinyl. Although we have the tools to do the job, we don't have to deal with the time element, ventilation, respirators and cleaning the gun. Works for us! Cost wise, we could hardly do it as cheap.
Posted by stein Saether (Member # 430) on :
3M 70 series
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Calon II, no wax or clear.
Mine have been through several tough northern New England seasons without a problem.
Rapid
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
We use only 3M/Gerber Scotchcal 220. Never had a failure.
Posted by roger bailey (Member # 556) on :
Wax will clog the poures of the vinyl and help absorb u.v. rays. Then it turns chalky and looks faded. Roger
Posted by Dita Mallon (Member # 3196) on :
Okay, I'm convinced. Thank you very much for all your help. I'm going to go with 3M for vinyl. Ya'll are the best!!!
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