First off Thanks! I am thinking of cutting out 1/2 polymetal letters to put on this roof and do not want go through the face of the letters as I assume it will look poor. I am open to using a different material as well since I am still learning. The first image is the concept, and then the sheetmetal material, then how the previous letters were installed, and last how the previous letters were covered. Any ideas would really help! Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
You can cut the letters out of many different kinds of materials . . .
About the only way you're gonna be able to mount them without hardware . . . or at least without creating holes is to use silicone adhesive . . . since it's actually a roof, and you're still in a learning curve, I would avoid stud-mounting them.
However, for the optimal, ideal learning experience, you could stud-mount them and learn all kinds'a new stuff, like . . . how to fix a leaky roof . . . how to fix a slightly crooked stud-mounted letter and also learn WHY the letter comes out crooked even though your dang pattern was PERFECT (when you figger that one out let us all know)
Whatever you learn, above all learn to have fun and enjoy what you do for a livin' . . . this web-site will help with that. Posted by Graham Parsons (Member # 1129) on :
Maybe acrylic rails?
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Got a good laugh out of that Sheila! Adhesive at 40%? Graham, that's a good idea would that collect a bunch of stuff as well?
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
That looks like a job I did recently. If so, the roof "shingle" material is stamped out of sheet metal, and not real heavy stuff. And you probably don't have any idea what's underneath it.
I kinda agree with Sheila about the down side of drilling holes. I think I'd consider cutting the letters out of the lightest weight material I could find (maybe foam or one of the light aluminum/composite materials). Then put generous amounts of silicone or polyurethane adhesive on the back, several pieces of VHB tape.....and stick them down. The tape will hold them for a good while by itself, but the adhesive will make sure they stay put, and no water leaks.
Posted by Brent Logan (Member # 6587) on :
I would go with Gemini letters glued to 1/4" clear acrylic or lexan strips. What's under the shingles?
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Brent, good question. I don't know I leaned on it and it felt solid. My guess would be wood.
Thanks Dale, I am wodering if an adhesive will set in 40% cold weather.
I just got an idea to put a screw at the edge of the sheetmetal to support the letters and then just use adhesive???? Are there adhesives that set up when it's 40%?
Posted by David Harding (Member # 108) on :
Silicone will set up at 40°. It just takes a little longer. When the weather is cool, I silicone, tape them in place, and remove the tape the next day.
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Thanks David!
Posted by bruce ward (Member # 1289) on :
second vote for silicone, let sit for couple days actually.
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
Yeah, Bruce, that was part of my suggestion for using the tape. It'll give the adhesive whatever time it needs to set up well.
Actually, if it were warmer, the tape would probably hold them up by itself. But, I've been known to overkill things like this. Can't hurt...
Posted by Stefan Brandt (Member # 3564) on :
Bruce, if you own a router why not cut a smaler copy of Dibond. Screw and maybe use a glue to mount them on the roof. Or use distance bolts...depending on the strenght of the roof stuff. That would make a good and solid base to glue the single letters on top of it...
Posted by David Wright (Member # 111) on :
Good idea Stefan. A German letterhead! Nice quality work I see on your website.
Posted by Stefan Brandt (Member # 3564) on :
Thank you David........I´m around here for years now but didnt post a lot. From time to time i feel that i must stay in contact with this brillant place. There are a lot of thinks i have learned and tried over the past years. Won`t miss that inspiration.
Posted by Michael Clanton (Member # 2419) on :
the first sign shop I worked at made letters out of styrofoam- they had templates made out of thin wood, layed them out onto the styrofoam sheets, used a hand router to cut them out, laytex paint on the foam, silicone to mount them to walls and buildings- drove by one just last week- it has been up since 1987
Posted by Ray Rheaume (Member # 3794) on :
Cut them out of 1/2 inch PVC. A little more depth and you don't have to paint them.
Pre-drill holes and use an over sized bit taper them for screws.
A dab of silicone on the back to prevent leaks and
...(old timers trick of the day)....
use a cigarette butt filter to paint the screw heads white.
Remember...people don't smell signs. From down below, the screws will barely show at all and anyone being that fussy...well....
A little dab will do ya! Rapid
[ December 02, 2010, 11:50 AM: Message edited by: Ray Rheaume ]
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Thanks Everyone!
Posted by Brad Ferguson (Member # 33) on :
Bruce, I have always preferred mechanical fasteners for cut-out letters, rather than glue. A flat-head machine screw can be used with countersunk holes throught the faces of the polymetal letters, making for a solid stud mount, but of course the screw heads would be visible. A variation would be making your own glue pads. Cut squares of the same polymetal you are using for the letters and drill countersunk center holes in them. Then mount the flathead machine screws to the squares, nutting them tight on the back side. This gives you a square glue pad that can be glued to the backs of the letters, yielding a nice blind mount. I would use Lord's adhesive rather than silicone to mount the pads to the letters. And gluing polymetal to polymetal usually results in better adhesion. Then mount the letters as you would any stud-backed letter. LIBERALLY coat studs to seal holes. An easy way to do this is to simply poke the stud unto the nozzle of the silicone tube. Additionally, you can put a second nut on each stud to serve as a stop. This can help the stud from sliding further into the hole before the silicone sets up, compromising the seal.
If you prefer to avoid the penetration of a stud mount, then Stefan B's method should work great. The smaller, "underneath" set of letters he describes can be fastened with flathead sheet metal screws into the roofing. I would probably use silicone at each screw penetration per Ray's suggestion. Or, use a rubber washer on the screw, such as many roofing screws have. After all the underneath letters are mounted, tape/silicone the full-size letters to them. Also, if you make the underneath set of letters undersized enough, there might be room to tape registration pieces, maybe little squares of polymetal, onto the backs of the full-size letters at the perimeter. Does that make sense? This would make the final fitting of the full-size letters go very, very quickly, with no adjusting or tweaking.
Brad in Kansas City
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Ray & Brad thanks too!
Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
I'm not sure who is removing the existing sign, but make sure the old holes get filled.
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Thanks for the heads up Kelly. I saw some of your work on another site and it was really nice!
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
Brian, another good Letterhead tip is;
never assume because someone doesnt have a web-site or post a lotta pics they don't know what they are talking about . . . .
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Hi Sheila, it's Bruce I don't assume that, thanks.
[ December 04, 2010, 01:49 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Brickman ]
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
Are done with that sign yet Bruce? I think it's a gonna be harder just to get UP there to install the letters than actually installing the letters. Hope you got real long arms.
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Hi Alicia, nope just waiting on a reply regarding the estimate
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
If you'd like, I could send them a really, really expensive estimate, and that's make your's look like a real bargain!!
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Sounds great! I send the contact info.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
LOL!! Another good Letterhead tip: 'Always double-check the name of the person you're giving tips to . . .'
Come to think of it . . . ai'nt we 'sposed to be the prufeshunal typo-spell checkerz anyway??
lololol . . . sorry about that Bruce . . . Won't happen again mate!
Posted by Bruce Brickman (Member # 8180) on :
Sheila I really like your tag line and so does my wife.
Posted by Sheila Ferrell (Member # 3741) on :
. . . That is pretty much 'me' in a nutshell . . . altho' I'm still workin' on the 'think like a man' part . . . very confusing at times. Logic seems to reign supreme while complete stupidity abounds and aloofness defines and elevates credibility among male peers . . .
Shux. Nothin' personal to you gentlemen out there . . . 'y'all cain't figger us out neether.
Anyway thanx. . . . I've had that personal slogan on every truck I've had since I went into signbiz in 1988. Around that time an old friend brought by a box of 'printers' items he tho't I could use. There were these 'sayings' he had to typeset for his class and that saying was in the stack.
It's old & yellowed, I still have it pasted on an old peice of plywood hanging in my shop.
The best way I have it displayed is on the panel Letterhead Pat King painted for me before he died. Probably one of the last panels he painted.
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. . . sorry about that Bruce . . . Won't happen again mate!