what is/are the advantages of using turpentine or penetrol over mineral spirits
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
Well John I will not answer your question directly but will say that I personally will use a flow enhancer over a thinner when using a brush. My reason is simple as I would be putting similar resins into the paint rather then taking them out and therefore cutting down my risk of paint failure
Posted by john randall (Member # 2450) on :
define flow enhancer
Posted by john randall (Member # 2450) on :
if penetrol is a flow enhancer, how do i resolve it hardening up after it has sat for a while
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
John ... yes it will harden, just like paint left out in the open.
Penetrol is linseed oil and alkyd resins with some slower solvents. It can be used by itself to coat and preserve wood, but it's primary use is to make oil based paints work smoother and to penetrate better.
Posted by john randall (Member # 2450) on :
thanks guys today i was outlining with one shot bright red and i couldnt get it to cover the way I liked it was either too thick with no flow or too thin and transparent
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
This relates to all paints
Learning to work the paint is an age old dilemma which confuses even those whom have been at it all their lives so to speak. In today's world using materials of yesterday can be disturbing to say the least when things go haywire over a problem where most of the time it just has as simple solution. For me, Bright Red has always had a coverage problem so in turn I would add a tiny bit of gray which I would mix from tinting black and white and others whereas not to change the color but enrich it. It seems that the real culprit is not always the paint but the painter cutting corners not taking the time to prepare the paint from the get-go, meaning from the time you have the paint can in your hand
I myself have used two different paints for one project many times because of either coverage, dry-time or the simplicity of all these dilemmas disappearing for just about any particular job.
Read my site, it may help
Posted by Rick Sacks (Member # 379) on :
I remember when we used to mix half TWP and half 1 Shot whites to get something that covered and looked somewhat white and was real workable. We'd open both quarts and mix it all and put it back in the cans.
Posted by Alicia B. Jennings (Member # 1272) on :
I'm no chemist, but to me, turps drys slower, penetrol enhaces flow and minerals sprits thins paint. Turps smells nice, and it reminds me of oil painting. Penetrol can also be used for other stuff, kinda like Armor All. Also, the colder the can, the faster the stuff will dry. Colder means hotter.
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
I've also had issues with Penetrol hardening in the can, once opened. Some of it, I've solved by not taking out the metal plug in the top, but just poking a tiny hole with an ice pick, and squirting out a little at at time, as needed. Also, keep the lid tight.
Someone also said that you could keep it in a refrigerator to keep it from going to crap; that might also be a solution for you.
It does work pretty well, you just need to work with it for awhile to get the proper "feel" to your brush. And be wary of "spectators" while you're working. With a small cup of it sitting next to your paint, you could be accused of drinking on the job.....we have been...
Posted by jack wills (Member # 521) on :
Ahhh..It's good to see Tibbit's & Westerfield, mentioned here. Thanks' Rick. Yer one also who knows...
Posted by Bill Diaz (Member # 2549) on :
When working with alkyds like 1 Shot or Ronans, pure spirits of Turpentine is and has always been my favorite.
Penetrol and the old 1 Shot Liqui-Seal always cooagulated in time and never did any better job improving coverage that turp.
Bright Red is a rascal to get good coverage and it should be double coated anyways.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
I always use turpentine if I have to thin 1S. I have found that using mineral spirits reduces the gloss of the paint. Love....Jill
Posted by David Thompson (Member # 2395) on :
quote:Originally posted by Joey Madden: My reason is simple as I would be putting similar resins into the paint rather then taking them out and therefore cutting down my risk of paint failure
Joey, I'm not sure I'm following you on this. I understand thinning the paint as actually reducing the amount of paint applied as some of the volume is now being replaced by the thinner, but doesn't the thinner evaporate out? Are you saying it actually removes some of the resins?
I have always used Dupont 3812 for reducing 1S and have found it actually helped bite into the surface of the paint I'm painting over.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
David, I use ChromaFlo which adds flow while giving the paints resins the paints are made from. ChromaFlo is very similar to the old Liqui-Seal Bill Diaz mentioned in his reply but now for your question. Although using reducers and thinners do evaporate they pull paint with them and also add to paint failure if too much is used. It seems that persons here use Penetrol which has its place in some weather some other solvents and its cheaper then using professional supplies and yet sometime yeild professional results but I find that ChromaFlo can be used in all weather and has always worked much better then LiquiSeal ever was. BTW, ChromaFlo is made by Spraylat and offered on their brochure along with 1-Shot. Their problem is they offer 1-Shot #6000 which is totally inferior to ChromaFlo
All these solvents have their place and can be stored without jelling if you just read the label which evidently no one has ever done. On just about every paint can ever made or every solvent it plainly says, " keep in a cool dry place " I have a can of 3/4 full LiquiSeal hanging out in the shop on a shelf which hasn't jelled in probably the 30 years its been there.
I understand the difference between sign people and pinstripers from the past association with both and have seen the caring some use and some don't in regards to their paints etc. I can remember just being here in Letterville for the past twelve or so years explaining certain aspects of solutions to persons problems along with my experiences and using the ultrasonic cleaner for my tools which I see now the things I'v3e explained have gone south so to speak. Well I know my name isn't Kent Smith although both of us met in the early 90's at the Chromatic paint company in Stony Point NY which was owned by Steve Berman and was 1/2 mile from my living quarters and shop as I had just came in from Las Vegas and the west coast shortly before.
Hey enough history, do whatever is it that you do or just give up and make the change over to vinyl and talk about the government as well as the olden days back when to ya buddies
Reminds me of couple of people who recently said that pinstriping and lettering will not be seen in just a few more years and it truly is a dying craft. Oh yeah, that would be true if their head was attached to their backside as it might be, but fortunately their are a whole new lineup of persons all over this planet getting involved in pinstriping as well as lettering which these persons have never seen Letterville or Signs 101 or whatever other website interests persons here who have eye flaps attached to their head for purposes beyond their control.
ok I'm through, rock on
[ March 22, 2010, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: Joey Madden ]
Posted by Richard Heller (Member # 2443) on :
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