At one time you could buy enamel receptive banners but those now seem to be extinct. Back in the "old days" there was a liquid called Ti-Coat that you could put on vinyl banners to make them enamel receptive, but I'm not sure I've seen that in years.
I have a large 5' x 15' banner to do but it has to be painted. What is the best thing to use as a barrier between the banner and the paint?
Thanks in advance.
Posted by Si Allen (Member # 420) on :
Ray...if you can't find any Ti-Coat....Johnson Kleer Floor Wax will do the job very nicely! (Basically the same stuff....acrylic.)
Posted by Dale Feicke (Member # 767) on :
You're right, Raymond; enamel receptive vinyl has seemed to have gone away.
Lately, I've been using Sherwin-Williams Sher-Kleer....and excellent all-around clear coat....as a banner primer.
I've also used satin acrylic latex enamel....painted the background in various colors, and done either vinyl letters or hand painted lettering. The acrylic sticks quite well.
One of them I did for a state fair vendor was from last year. She rolled it up and put it away, and used it again this year. It still looked good. Try some on a piece of scrap, if you want. Just wipe it down good.
Posted by Jillbeans (Member # 1912) on :
I order enamel receptive banners from USBanner Corp via N Glantz. They have also donated heavily to any Letterheads meet I have ever had or sent a banner to. They come in different colors as well as white and just about any size you require. http://www.usbanner.com/ Love....Jill
Posted by Sam Staffan (Member # 4552) on :
I still use 'Chromatic Ti-Cote', I get it from Wensco Sign Supply.
Wensco.com
Posted by Frank Smith (Member # 146) on :
I have painted directly on vinyl banner material that's sold to go through the new-fangled large format printers, but there are so many brands and varieties of that stuff...
I have no demand for hand-painted banners anymore so I stopped my experimenting, but several brands worked.
For smaller banners (up to about 48"), they still sell Tara Sign Cloth.
Posted by Bob Rochon (Member # 30) on :
Too bad Texas is so far away I have plenty of Ti-cote for that job.
Posted by Bill Masters (Member # 851) on :
Raymond I use Grip & Seal laytex stain killer from Coronado Paint. I get it from Ben moore supplier here in Scranton. I make my banners from old billboard flex faces and this paint sticks tight and stays flexable. It cost about $29.00 a gallon, if you can't find it the phone number on the can is 386-428-6461
Posted by Frank Smith (Member # 146) on :
Bill- that sounds fantastic! How did you discover that? How do you hem the edges?
Posted by Bill Masters (Member # 851) on :
Frank, I don't hem the edges just put grommets in. I found out the hard way when paiting a logo on a concert amphatheater roof tent structure, it was vinyl whith some kind of clear on it. I used 1-shot vinyl tycoat the first try then ronans on the second try after painting the logo and paint was dry it rained and the paint fell off so I tried Grip & Seal, 8 years and two name changes later paint is still on the tent
Posted by Jerry Berg (Member # 7841) on :
I can still get vinyl receptive here in Portland at pacific coast sign supply. Have'nt tried ronan's product but it could be worth a try. I allways clean the banner very well before applying any sort of emulsion.
Posted by Bill Masters (Member # 851) on :
Hey Ray, This Grip & Seal also works great for priming signfoam.
Posted by Raymond Chapman (Member # 361) on :
Thanks to all for the information. One of the best things about Letterville is the gathering of minds and how easily you share with each other.
[ February 08, 2010, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Raymond Chapman ]
