After reading the Step by Steps On the Glawson Panel I dug out some of stuff and saw I have about 4 sheets of abalone.. Tried cutting it and all it did was break.
Whats the trick to cutting this stuff.
Posted by Brent Logan (Member # 6587) on :
I remember Rick Glawson had a trick for doing detailed scrolls and letters from abalone. He would stick plotter cut calendered vinyl to the abalone and sandblast around the image until the abrasive ate away the abalone. Then he would soak the piece in water and slide the vinyl off the abalone. The letters or whatever would come out perfect. I worked great for inlay.
Posted by Jim Moser (Member # 6526) on :
If you are just cutting straight lines, score with an X-acto knife and break it. If you want to do something intricate, like Brent said, Rick would glue the shell to a piece of glass with table tack adhesive. ( like for t-shirt screen printing plattens) I have used rubber cement too.
Cut the design in Gerber mask and apply to a piece of shell slightly larger than the design, then abrasive blast away the excess. Then you can use lacquer thinner or the table tack solvent to remove the vinyl and the shell from the glass. Gotta be careful as the shell is only .010 thick. For inlay Rick would use thicker pieces of shell.
I have tried having the shell cut with a laser and that does not work ! Chuck Erickson (the Duke of Pearl) has had some beautiful intricate scroll designs cut with a computer router with a very small bit.
Posted by Guy H. J. Hilliard (Member # 2529) on :
It can also be cut using a laser cutter.
(I know the image is of a MOP inlay not Abalone but if you don't tell anyone I won't either) Posted by Kelly Thorson (Member # 2958) on :
Abalone dust is toxic. Make sure if you are blasting, grinding or sawing it to wear a mask.
Posted by Larry White (Member # 3999) on :
I typically cut out a shape by delicately scoring the surface, usually going over it several times, then breaking the shape out at the score line. I've also used my dremel tool with a very small bit or abrasive disk.
[ December 30, 2009, 11:00 AM: Message edited by: Larry White ]
Posted by Kent Smith (Member # 251) on :
I prefer to score using the back of the blade, #24's are better than #11. Also, warming it slightly in hot water makes it more pliable for a better scoring, then cool to snap it. I have also heated it up more and cut with toe-nail scissors for shapes but not intricate cuts. I have some dental tools that fit the dremel that are very nice too. I prefer to keep it wet to minimize dust and wear a mask as well, certainly.
Posted by William DeBekker (Member # 3848) on :
Thanks Guys.. I'll give some of those a try.. Was thinking the router. But seemed it might create a lot of waste.
Ken, Whens your next class or meet.
Posted by Robert Beverly (Member # 1907) on :
That shell is some perty stuff!
been cuttin quite a bit of shell lately and more to come...
The method rick used is great if you are looking for tight registration, have a cabinet and time...
but not sure what the problems are that Jim has had but...you get yourself a laser...epilog here and it cuts pertier than anything and mighty fast too...puts a coping saw or #11 to all kinds of shame!
first photo is pcs put together for a x-mas project leftovers using laser.
These little flowers out of focus are .75 wide...and the inside petals are a different shell than the outside...done the glawson way....and they are perty too....and when you have this tight a registration, that is a good thing.
Enjoy!
Posted by Ian Stewart-Koster (Member # 3500) on :
Very nice, Robert! (what power is the Epilog?)
Posted by Kent Smith (Member # 251) on :
Bill, next GLT class is second weekend in Dec as always. I don't have others scheduled yet. The Colo LH will get together sometime this summer again.
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