Anyone got any advice on finishing MDO Edges? I would like to conceal them, making the MDO appear to be solid. Thanks much!
Cheers, Sarah
Posted by KARYN BUSH (Member # 1948) on :
use titebond glue or west systems epoxy and put on a few coats to seal up the edges....then paint as usual.
Posted by Joey Madden (Member # 1192) on :
You can use Bondo or any of the automotive repair stuff as persons have used this for many years. Mix it and put it on with a putty knife using it sideways, let it dry and lightly sand it with 220 sandpaper or a sanding sponge than its ready for paint.
Posted by Bill Lynch (Member # 3815) on :
We do the same as Karyn, the epoxy will give a "harder shinier" finish.
Posted by Sarah F.Evans (Member # 7022) on :
Thanks much for your input everyone! I will do a test peice using these different methods.
Posted by Bob Kaschak (Member # 3146) on :
A word about using epoxy.
If it's West System epoxy, it will "blush" when cured. You must clean off the amine blush to get paint to stick to it.
You will know if the epoxy "blushes" by looking at the surface after it's cured. Try to "smear" the surface with your finger. If you see a "film" or "smear mark" from your finger, than it blushed.
Ammonia or Windex with a rag will remove the blush.
I personally seal the edges with latex caulking "rubbed-in" really well. With a bowl of water to dip your finger in, you can smooth the caulking really well. A nice smooth look to it. Nothing thicker than 1/16" to 1/8" thick.
Cure overnight and prime and paint as usual (latex is my choice). Quick and easy.
MDO signs out there 12 years plus with no problems.
I hope this helps.
Peace, Bob
Posted by Carole Bersin (Member # 5710) on :
I've also used the paintable caulk for years with no sign of fraying edges on any of them. It has the added advantage of being easy clean-up and way cheaper than the epoxy.
I do it the same way as Bob says.
Posted by Robert Larkham (Member # 2913) on :
Titebond II is the best in my opinion. I brought that idea to letterville years ago and it was passed onto me from another sign painter. It has been time tested for at least the last 15 years. Two coats of TBII, light sanding and paint. WORKS GREAT!
Posted by Curt Stenz (Member # 82) on :
Whenever appropriate, I router the edges over with a 1/4" radius. This allows the paint a more uniform coverage all across the panel as well as right around the edges. As for the voids I use bondo and prime edges with oil primer mixed with linseed oil. This will extend dry times. Never tried epoxy wet, but I think I will.
Posted by Curt Stenz (Member # 82) on :
sorry:
"Never tried epoxy wet, but I think I will."
should be: "Never tried epoxy YET, but I think I will.
Posted by Steve Purcell (Member # 1140) on :
I've tried 'em all at one point or another.
I now employ different sealing options according to the level of quality ($) that the sign demands.
For quick stuff, I use the caulk/wet finger method.
I really like Imperial's Aluminized Edge Sealer (the solvent based) - but it vaps off quick once you open the can, so it's best to decant it into smaller sealed containers to minimize waste. Great product.
For highest quality, I apply a wet coat West System (fast hardener) for penetration, then mix in some fairing compound (407 I think). Sands to a glass smooth edge.
Posted by Aaron Taylor (Member # 9081) on :
I do the same I use the wood flour to thicken to a peanut consistency and fill.
-at
Posted by Dave Grundy (Member # 103) on :
I'm with Bob K. Paintable latex caulking. Overnight cure and then paint.
Quick, easy, affordable and no complaints in the past.
West epoxy is an excellent product but it can be "overkill" on an MDO sign?
Bondo is also OK for doing a repair job on a metal or fiberglass vehicle, but is it meant for being used on wood?
Posted by Len Mort (Member # 7030) on :
Contrary to what Joey added regarding Bondo.
bondo and most body fillers are not water proof or resistant, when paint fails, will suck in moisture and blow finish off substrate.
Look at autos that have been repaired by splicing panels, will eventually suck in moisture, bubble, and fail catastrophically. You must use filler such as waterproof Fiberglas tigerhair and or similar products.
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